14/01/21 - Mayfair Pub Walk

Distance - 3 Miles

Pubs - 5

Walk Inspiration - CAMRA's London Pub Walks - Walk 13

The Guide Book that has probably bought me the most value is this one from Bob Steel (RIP).

First Edition

After 15 years, I have just 5 of the 30 walks left to do.  Two updated editions have been subsequently released, so I do not fear that I will run out of inspiration.

Tonight, I'm going upmarket.... St James and Mayfair.  Lots of super-cars parked up, with their chauffeurs sat watching Gogglebox on iPads.  Lots of pubs with Lion in the title.

Its been a while since I've completed a London Pub Crawl but I can say the death of the London Pub has been greatly exaggerated.

Red Lion, Duke of York Street, Dark Star Hop Head

A Classic

Might as well start with a classic - this is the only pub tonight in the Good Beer Guide.  Its also one of Len Deighton's top 12 pubs from his 1967 book, London Dossier. 

The building dates from 1821 and inside its a splendid example of high class Victorian furnishings.  All mirrors, glass and dark woodwork.

Its also incredibly small and very busy inside and out.  From the rear bar, I noticed only two real ales on -  London Pride and Dark Star Hophead.... which I carry around trying to find somewhere to perch.  Not a table or ledge to be found, so try and take a couple of photos and head off to the next.

Rear Bar

Will someone vacate a seat before I finish my hop head?

Golden Lion, King Street, Beavertown Neck Oil

Nice Facade from 1897

The Good News is I get a seat and they are still doing food. The Bad News is that the Timothy Taylor Landlord is off.  I am forced to go crafty. By the time I have ordered a Steak and Kidney pie, wondering what the seasoned vegetables will be, the place has filled. Good job I placed my coat on the back of a chair.

The gap I vacated and a glimpse of the Landlord I could have had

Crafty

Its a functional Nicholsons - the food was served promptly, gaining such approval from the table of four next to me that I thought one bloke was going to nick a chip.

The seasoned vegetables?  Cabbage.

The Red Lion, Crown Passage, Tribute

Pub of the evening and a real unexpected gem.

Its tucked away down an initially covered alley running between King Street and Pall Mall.  You really do need to hunt for it, as like all alleys, its not very welcoming. This may explain why it was empty on my arrival but worry not, it soon filled up with "characters".

Where the Alley Opens Up

Outdoor Signage - But what is the oldest!

Before the Rush

Enabling some good photo opportunities of a possible 1930's interior

Only Tribute on - and just as I start taking the photos, it starts to fill up.

Initially, rather uncomfortably. A middle aged courting couple who I am sure must be married to other people.  Its hard not to eavesdrop, but she is having residency issues and he is going to sort it out by writing a letter to Amber Rudd. Its been a long week in politics and I am not confident enough to point out that she is no longer the home secretary.

They obviously have a sixth sense that I am about to engage in conversation with them and start kissing. I've still got half a pint of Tribute left but before I need to make a decision on how awkward this is going to get, two very pissed up Germans come in. Their hiccups deflecting the tension.

From that point on, its all systems go. Very smartly dressed elderly people enter in fits and starts.  They are possibly in some sort of band, as they are carrying long bags, which I assume contain instruments.  Someone proudly exclaims that they are in the chair, but I can see from his eyes, that he regrets it.

More and more come in and once one says they'll have a large Glenmorangie, the unimaginative remainder all join in with "I'll have the same".  Not the greatest of malts but putting lemonade in it (which of course they all do, once one starts) is a surely a crime.

A subsection of the band

Coach and Horses, Bruton Street, Camden Hells

Mock Tudor

A flying revisit to a busy little, multi-roomed pub. This place has the personal claim to fame of being the last meal that I was able to expense for work purposes. Remember staying away for business?

No real ale on at all (GK IPA/Abbott do not count) - a point made much worse by the teasing of the above bar, roof mounted clips to former beery glories.  

I've nothing against Camden Hells in its funky squat glass.  Apart from the price.

Look at what you could have won

The Guinea Grill, Bruton Place, Proper Job

Another great find - tucked away down a little mews street around the corner from the Coach and Horses.  

Mews Pub

The loo based signage indicated that I had perhaps peaked too early in my quest for food.

A 1991 Steak and Kidney Pie Winner.  Endorsed by Eddie Large

The pubs got something about it. The smartly dressed bar staff and illuminations powered by sub 20w bulbs have appealed to legendary boozers of yester-year such as Richard Burton, Frank Sinatra and a woman who managed to scald both feet getting into a hot bath, Princess Margret.

Very atmospheric

A fine place to wrap up a good pub crawl - that surprised me both in terms of busyness and accessibility to the non-moneyed.  

Although on-line banking shows the Camden Hells came in at an eye-watering £6.55.