11/06/16 - Hawkesbury Upton

Distance - 8 Miles
Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine November 2005 Walk 20
Geocaches - 5
Pub - Beaufort Arms, Butcombe Chinook APA

After circumnavigating Birmingham for 27 miles, it was always going to be a countryside walk this weekend.  I also thought it was time to start on the Top 10 County Pubs in Gloucestershire - and Number 1 looked as good a place as any to kick things off.  I am off to Hawkesbury Upton but where to walk?

Library consulted and it's an 11 year old route from Country Walking Magazine.

The Classic "Down your way" Section

I've been to Hawkesbury Upton before, as its on the Cotswold Way.  For the life of me, I cannot remember a thing about it.  And you would have thought Somerset Monument would have stirred some sort of memory.

First View of Somerset Monument - to be visited later in the walk.

I drop down to Hawkesbury Church.  This is where the village used to be centered but apparently the old Manor House went to rack and ruin when the Lord's daughter fell to her death waving at her lover through a window.  The villagers moved up the hill, leaving a rather isolated church.  I investigated but a locked door prevented a view inside.

Hawkesbury Church

A bit of road walking as I head towards Horton.  I'm glad to be out of the wet waist high grass that has left me both soaked and covered in pollen.  I am not going to be at my sartorial best for the pub visit later.  Decent views of the Severn Plains.

Views Over the Severn Plains.  Raindrop on my lens

Another Church - this time at Horton Court.  Once owned by William Knight who negotiated with the Vatican for Henry VIII divorce from Katherine of Aragon.  No doubt he came to a sticky end, as he failed.

Horton Manor Church

Onto the Monarch's Way, uphill.  There's nothing really represented on the map and this hold true on the ground.  Bodkin Hazel Lane and Marshfield path having nowt to look at apart from crops.  Pick up the Cotswold Way to have a look at Somerset Monument up close.  A very well hidden geocache provides some entertainment in the undergrowth.

Somerset Monument

Somerset Monument

Before hitting the pub, it's a question of adapting the route to get the bounty for a multi cache, worked out in advance to save time in the field.  This allows me to loop back into the village from the other side and have a nose at all items of interest.

Memorial to the Fallen

An unvisited Italian Inspired Pub

So, to Gloucestershire's best pub.  It's in the Good Beer Guide (at least the 2003 version, which I really need to update).

One of my walking books refers to it as the Duke of Beaufort and there is evidence of rebranding on the sign at the back of the pub.  Its an old converted farmhouse coming complete with its own well and resident ghost - who super naturally messes about with the gas in the Cellar.  The locals are very talkative, instantly getting me into a multi person conversation about the history of the village and learning plenty about the white slave trade, the links with various monarchs and their patron saint - St Wulfston.

Rarely have been made more welcome.  Especially in wet trousers covered in yellow rape seed pollen.

Beaufort Arms from the Front

And evidence of hasty rebranding from the rear

Beer wise, there's four real ales on and I plump for the unfortunately named, yet delicous Butcombe. They sell the Bitter in one of my locals but here, they have a never spotted before Chinook APA.

This Pale Ale is even better than the bitter.

Superb Pint

But the beer adventures don't end here.  On plotting the route, I noticed that I would be within 4 miles of Wickwar, home to the eponymous brewery.  On Monday Evening, I was enjoying a pint of their Falling Star in Bearwood.  It would have been rude not to pop over and get the Euro Ales in.

Wickwar Brewery - Opens as a pub on weekends

08/06/16 - Outer Circle Route 11 - Stage 3 - Perry Barr to Acock's Green

Distance - 9 Miles
Geocaches - 5
Pub 1 - The Hare and Hounds, Erdington, Tribute
Pub 2 - The Inn on the Green, Acock's Green, Horny Goat Ale
First Stage
Second Stage

The walking journey around the route of Birmingham's Outer Circle route 11 comes to an end. The First Stage brought interest and surprisingly leafy walking.  The Second Stage brought fear.  The most interesting thing about this stage (Camra's Birmingham Pub of the Year 2015 aside) has been the weather.

In a break from the norm, I am walking this stage anti-clockwise.  As much as this upsets the natural order of things, it's just easier to get to Acock's Green by public transport.  Even if it does mean that I will end up in the badlands of Perry Barr.  I'll just hop on the bus quickly.

I could have caught the bus before the walk - but it's rush hour and nothing appears to be moving. There's also a very ominous black cloud above, so I think I should get a wriggle on.

Residents of Acocks Green

The caching starts on the other side of the A45, where Oaklands recreation ground provides the only greenery of the day and some views over Birmingham in the far distance.

Under the A45

Birmingham - about to get the air cleared

Yardley gives way to Stechford, which gives way to Ward End.  Unlike London, there is nothing to tell these places apart - well at least not along the bus route.  To be fair to Yardley, there is a brown sign for old Yardley Village which may be worth exploring one day.

Under the M6 and the first flash of lightening and rumble of thunder.

M6

Dressed for my urban safari in shorts and T-Shirt, I have no choice to find shelter.  I'm sure the best place in a thunder storm is not a metal bus shelter but what am I supposed to do?  Have you seen the pubs of Erdington?

I sit it out for the best part of an hour, providing bemusement to genuine travellers of the Number 11 who ask why I am not boarding.

It turns out to be one hell of a storm.  When I eventually arrive home, the local news is full of incidents, including the now compulsory footage of cars stuck in flood water.  400 emergency calls were received in this hour.

So what's wrong with the pubs of Erdington?  On the route, there are two Cask Marque accredited establishments.

The first, a stone clad monstrosity decked out in Wolverhampton Wanderers colours, should tell you everything you need to know.  A plastic pub of the highest order.  I am actually that thirsty that I venture in, see all the real ales are "clip backwards" and cannot bring myself to stay.  Still, I have a look for the barcode to scan into the App.  Is this cheating?

Flaming Nora

The next is a Hungry Horse.  God help me.  I think I need to wait till the Good Pub Guide produces a ticking app and knock these off instead.  I like my pubs with a bit of history and gnarly locals.  Not one where you have to queue behind a man who has loaded his families massive order of fried food into his smartphone, yet doesn't know whether he wants 5 Onion Rings or 20.

Apparently in a Hungry Horse, these are the choices.

Still, I need refreshment and the Tribute was in great condition.  Couldn't find the CM Bar Code.

Anyone for Rock and Roll Bingo?

Back under the M6 and delivered into Witton.  Things get edgier.  I look for a cache and narrowly avoid being knocked over by a pavement mounted cyclist.  I can imagine the subsequent discussion and looking at the size of him, how it would have ended.

Villa Park - looming over Witton

Hit Perry Barr and its all over.  The Outer Circle has been completed.

Was it worth it?  Yes.
Would I do it again?  No.

Wait 40 minutes for an every 8 minute bus to whisk me back to where I should be.  Then it is further delayed and cannot go down its normal route due to flooding.

Still, I am safely back and I have Birmingham's 2016 Camra pub of the year to investigate.

The Inn on the Green is suffering on the outside by being bedecked in scaffolding.  It's all very pleasant on the inside.

It has the Cask Marque bar code and bar mats but doesn't appear in the App. 

Sumptuous

And the beer?  There are only three choices, which I was a touch surprised at.  And all three are all unheard off.

I refuse to ask the 20 something barmaid for my choice by name, choosing instead to point at the middle one.

An inspired choice, the Horny Goat from a small Welsh Brewery Twt Lol was superb.  Even if it did take me an age to find it for check in the Untappd App.

Horny Goat

06/06/16 - Outer Circle Route 11 - Stage 2 - Selly Oak to Perry Barr

Distance - 8.9 Miles
Geocaches - 6
Pub 1 - The Midland, Bearwood, Wickwar Falling Star
Pub 2 - The Arthur Robertson, Perry Barr, Doombar
First Stage


If Stage 1 was "Leafy", this is going to have to be described as "Earthy".  I am on an urban safari, where you know you are in trouble when Bearwood is the highlight.


Starts off well enough.  In Selly Oak, in the glorious evening sunshine, dodging the CCTV cameras to find Geocaching Treasure in a Sainsbury's car park.  Views of the Queen Elizabeth hospital and university clock tower dominating the skyline.

Yes, that is a Number 11a

Grove Park is my only Green Space today.  The Brummies are out sans shirts, just the way our European Cousins do it.  The park has at least three caches that don't represent too much of a detour.  The heat has rendered the muggles useless at spotting my clandestine hunting.

Grove Park Greenery - Most Welcome

We brush the outskirts of Harborne, a area walked before and where most of the pubs have been investigated.  Highly recommended, beer fans.

There is one consistent motif on this walk and that is the number of dead pubs.  I pass the Old Smithy (A Gibbs Mew Pub Anyone?), The Acorn and a number of others that cannot be identified due to their disheveled state.  For wanton destruction though, the Huntsman at Harborne wins.  Destroyed by fire in 2013.  Blocking Harborne highstreet everytime another bit of it falls off ever since.

Proper Dead Pub

Lordswood Road provides surprisingly quiet walking for a City.  Broad pavements and next to no traffic.  The peace will soon be shattered.

I'm stopping off in Bearwood.  My research has shown that the owners of my local (Black Country Ales) have made their most recent purchase Bearwood's former Midland Bank.

And it's an absolute boster.

13 hand pulled beers with a large notice board showing whats what.  I was going to try for a Wickwar Cotswold Way (having had it before) but selection is futile.  The landlord offers you a sup of his pint (I tried to decline, but when in Rome) and my selection was modified to an equally fine Wickwar Falling Star.

Further investigation of the pub found the door to the old Strongroom, complete with a viewing window, where they now keep the barrels for dispensing.  An interesting diversion, but I for one, don't want the magic to be ruined.

A crowd that can only be described as "eclectic" made a passing stranger feel welcome.  I will be back one day.

Post HSBC - The rebirth of the High Street

I wished upon a Wickwar Falling Star

Half way through the walk, fortified by fine Ale, I hit the mean streets of Birmingham.  The arrow straight City Road will offer no memories apart from taking me into the increasing bad lands of Winson Green, Handsworth and ultimately, the worse of the lot, Perry Barr.

Winson Green is famous for the prison.  This was the safest I felt, as all the bad guys are neatly locked up.

Now HMP Birmingham

The rest of it was a blur of "Street" activities.  Gangs of youths hanging around on corners.  Souped up cars pumping loud music and performing a variety of stunts, mostly wheel spinning out of side roads.  Eyes fixed front, pace increased to 3.75 MPH and camera left deep in my pocket.  Nothing to see here.

Perry Barr is where it ends.  Refreshment is provided by a Wetherspoons that won't be bothering CAMRA's Heritage Pubs of the Midlands book anytime soon, regardless of how they have made it look like a Gentlemen's drinking club on the inside.

Cask Marquee and in a Shopping Centre

I'm not going to knock it.  I knew I would get a decent pint and value for money meal and at least the toilets were clean.  Well, apart from the traps.

The one thing I will object to is chance to read the "Facts about the Referendum, from both sides".  My Dad told me never to argue Politics or Religion in pubs.  If an aging, mulleted man came up to me at a bar spouting his views, I would quickly move on.  So therefore, I don't think it is right that I should be bombarded with beer mats telling me Brexit is the way forward.

Sloganeering

Refreshment over, I head to the bus stop wondering whether Milan, Paris and Munich will miss Perry Barr.  Mind is made up when the drunkest man I have ever seen in public, brandishing a half finished bottle of Rose, demands a cigarette from me.

We are drinking wine, alfresco.

We must be Europeans.

03/06/16 - Outer Circle Route 11 - Stage 1 - Acock's Green to Selly Oak

Distance - 9 Miles
Geocaches - 4
Pub 1 - Hare and Hounds, Kings Heath, Purity UBU
Pub 2 - The Bristol Pear, Selly Oak, Bombardier Burning Gold


My list of "To-Do" walks is both long and varied.  One item that has been there for a long, long time is to walk the 27 Miles of the Outer Circle bus route around Birmingham.  A journey that Frank Skinner wanted condemned to Room 101.

So I suppose the obvious question that blogfans would ask is "Why?"

Three reasons.

1. I like Urban Walking as much as Country Walking.  Always something of interest and easy transport links.
2. This is "PsychoGeography" at is finest.  I have no reason to be along this bus route.  What will I find today?
3. Despite Birmingham being my home town (moved as a 2 year old, not on my own accord), it's to my eternal damnation that I know both London and Edinburgh better.  I vowed to make this change and walking the suburbs should provide an opportunity to identify which, if any, areas I would like to come back to.

Good enough for you to keep reading?  I hope so.

So I start at Acock's Green.  All great journeys start with a single step and mine starts by following a shoulder riding toddler along the High Street who is wailing at his mother below that "I just want to take the bus".

The Green - at Acock's Green

Walking starts now along the tree lined Fox Hollies Road.  I could be marching along the Champs-Elysees.

Fox Hollies

One of my early Birmingham Adventures took us to Moseley Bog - the supposed inspiration for Tolkien's middle earth.  I am back again.  The streets and mill always induce a childish giggle.

Easy Anagram

The Mill

Unfortunately, we don't get to see anything of Moseley centre.  I will save that for another trip.

One thing that is obvious is that London does green space better than anywhere.  Birmingham has some and todays' first example is Swanhurst Park.  I get to take a break from breathing diesel fumes by walking the water's edge.

Pool at Swanhurst Park

Kings Heath is break time.  Its about half way around and home of the legendary Hare and Hounds Pub.  Its a famous live music and comedy venue.  It hosted UB40s first gig but we cannot hold this against them.  Goldie is coming to town later this year.  Not every local has a bone fide Bond villian to entertain them.

The pub is simply wonderful - spacey with a mixed clientele of Old Boys reading the papers, middle aged boys talking loudly about how Nirvana's last UK Gig (I was there) provided inspiration to take up guitar and ultra trendy youths who I assume were associated with tonight's band - The Young Pilgrims.  There has to be a reason to wear such pointy brown suede boots in public.

Photos tell the story - but it was a wrench to peel myself off the Chesterfield and not blow the housekeeping on Purity UBU.

Missed the UB40 Plaque - Found the Cask Marque Plaque

My local has a fortnightly quiz.

Lovely tiled interior

Purity on a Chesterfield.

I will be back.  I've joined the mailing list and followed them on twitter.  Where do they sell winkle pickers in a 9 and half?

Back into the evening sun and through the grounds of the church yard.  I liked the way they had incorporated headstones into the paving.

Kings Heath Church - Dominating the High Street

Urban Caching starts on the way through Stirchley, which gives way to Cotteridge.  My favourite of many fancy dress and party shops (I am not making this up, South Birmingham is Party Central) revels in its shabby chic.

You are not filling my balloons thank you very much.

Into Bournville - and yes, its so quaint, it really does smell of chocolate.  I wouldn't live there mind, no pubs.  This photo tells you all you need to know about beneficent living.

Into Bournville

And its oddly styled Church

Up hill and I am into Selly Oak.  The Queen Elizabeth Hospital looms in the distance like a city from the future.  I'll get a better photo angle next leg.

And the post walk refreshment - the rather brilliant Bristol Pear.  Once again, another pub offering nothing but entertainment for its lucky hipsters.  Huge pool room/sport tv room around the back, drinking room around the side and a restaurant doing good value Americana.

Its all done really rather well.  Now, I'm starving and there is one table left to eat.  I have no jacket to mark it as mine, so rather nervously, with one eye on my spot, order my pint and meal at the bar.  I haven't been this nervous since ordering a breakfast in a Wetherspoons when the bin men had knocked off for the day.

Its also the first craft beer pub that I have been in.  Five pumps are marked simply with numbers and my staring at my lone seat meant I missed the blackboard describing their crafty wares.  In full on panic mode, I order a Bombardier Burnt Gold - a surprisingly inspired choice as it was fantastic.  Pleased that it came in a dimpled handled jug, rather than a jam jar.

Back to my table to reclaim my prize, await my tea and try and spot the Cask Marque sign for later scanning.

You lucky people of South Birmingham

Confusion!

Not going to Argue with this sentiment

Once again, I have to tear myself out of a wonderful place and back to reality.  Catch the 11a back to Acocks green (max fare £2.30, finance fans) and travel in style.

Front Seat, Top Deck.