Bob Steel's Edgy City
The second edition of CAMRA's London Pub Walks has a new area to discover - Croydon. With a population greater than Southampton and Brighton, Bob Steel, the author, describes Croydon as London's Edge City. He describes its unique identity, history and doesn't shy away from its concrete jungle associations or indeed recent troubles.
This was when London was burning in the 2011 riots. I can't remember exactly what they were rioting about but I do know I was there shortly afterwards, walking the Capital Ring.
Still, with a handily placed Premier Inn and great transport links - I can use it as stopover for my London Spiral Walk. Wits kept about me. Phone only checked when backs to the wall.
The pubs have to be explored. Four are in the Good Beer Guide. None are called the Swan and Paedo.
Things get off to a poor start. The only 'spoons in town is The George. The Skylark - Bob's Pub 8 - has long gone. The George is going through an 8 week renovation - possibly to banish any similarity to Piccadilly's Moon Under Water. If Social Media is to be believed, this may have been rougher. It does mean I have to re-plan tea.
 |
| GBG Dubious Tick |
Surrey Street is just packing away its street market as I arrive at the Dog. It's lost the "and Bull" extension since the guide was written. It's also lost its Youngs patronage, as the beer range was rather boringly limited to Doom Bar and Landlord. Croydon's oldest pub, with an island bar and rear room with fireplace.
 |
| No Bull |
 |
| Island Bar Hoggers |
Two bank conversions for the price of one now. The Spread Eagle by Fullers providing Old Joint Stock vibes. Massive ceilings, a roped off staircase to a function room. No ESB but there was HSB, and a main course of Hunters Chicken only costing the same as two pints. Almost seemed a bargain. Until they delivered it to the wrong table and I nearly lost three chips.
The Green Dragon providing a similar architectural experience. A live music venue, but not on a Monday. Bob details that they have Hog's Back beers on offer and indeed, I find my first TEA for over 10 years. Thank the lord for Untapped.
 |
| Impressive Architecture at the Spread Eagle |
 |
| And Green Dragon - GBG endorsed |
Is the other side of the flyover Bandit Country? There's two men ripping the seats out of an SUV to use it is as a skip on wheels. By the time I return, the police are there. I'm not making this up.... the SUV was packed to the hilt with what looked like a central heating system.
But I have to press on for two more. The Royal Standard having old school charm in spades. Not the biggest of pubs but full of different entrances and nooks and crannies running around a central bar. Lovely pale wood panelling and bar. Another Fullers pub with no ESB. If it wasn't for the Doric Arch, I would be forgiven for thinking this is now a seasonal ale.
 |
| The view from under the flyover |
 |
| Proper Pub Interior |
Final visit of the night and it's The Bulls Head. An Irish landlord who looks like he has been there forever, yet Bob's description from 15 years ago holds no relevance now. Bob talks about the cask offering with the Cronx brewery offering guest ales, alongside more established Courage Best and Doom Bar.
Today, there is no cask.
This looked like the sort of pub that you could buy anything, alongside your keg lager. You know, a lawnmower and someone to operate it. A parrot that has picked up the locals' lingo. There's more, but I have heard the phrase that snitches get stitches.
Painted in the colours of Crystal Palace my abiding memory will be that all other players from any other team are See You Next Tuesdays.
 |
| Glad All Over |
There's one more Good Beer Guide Tick available at the Builders Arms. This, and a Peep Show themed tour, are plenty of reasons to come back.
No comments:
Post a Comment