Reggie Kray.... Do you know my name?
I'm not a true crime fan. This walk was inspired by the excellent Iain Sinclair book "Lights out for the Territory". I was hoping this 11 chapter ode to psychogeography might provide some walking inspiration. In reality - it was only a recurring theme of the Krays in the East End and a pilgrimage to their graves in Chingford Cemetery that really even explained which part of London he was talking about. Do not let this put you off, it is an excellent book.
So, on a warm and sunny Monday afternoon, I find myself at Bethnal Green Station - timing it to perfection that I arrive at the most likely place for its advertised 3pm opening. I won't detail locations chronologically but will use a framework from a fellow (wannabe) London Gangster. Peter Coyne from the Godfathers. What I will say is you could throw a stone between most of the locations. They lived a small world.
Birth
178 Vallance Road is where the Kray family moved to in 1939. Then, it was a two storey terrace with an outdoor khazi. The site was redeveloped - probably in the 1970s - but the road name and house number still exist. I bet the family living there now get fed-up with middle aged men taking photos.
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| Site of "Fort Vallance" |
School
I'm not taking photos of schools. It was playtime, and the kids are likely to shout insults the like of which 1970s Radio 1 DJs didn't live long enough to hear. Daniel Street School, Gosset Street and Wood Close School in Cheshire Street were both passed.
Work
The narrative I have read is that the Krays would commandeer a pub, install friends or family as landlords and use it as their HQ base to plan their nefarious activities. Of course, the pub was also where they committed their most famous nefarious activity.
The Lion had the windows shot out from by the Richardson Gang on the night that a man who looked like Reggie was run over in Vallance Road. It was also the place that Ronnie returned to after shooting George Cornell in the Blind Beggar.
It retains its pubby look - complete with a Truman's sign on the gable end - but has been converted into flats in 2002.
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| The Lion - retains golden lion decal above the 1st floor windows |
The Carpenters Arms was bought by the twins in 1967. They were drinking here on the night that Jack "I won't use his nickname" McVitie was murdered.
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| As the picture indicates - a live pub - yet a 3pm opener |
The Blind Beggar is the most iconic place associated with the Krays. The website, and indeed the opening hours in the window, shows it as 3pm Monday opener. By 3:10pm, the doors hadn't opened but I had seen four people of a similar age to myself having selfies outside.
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| Since 1894.... but not 3pm |
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| Side On |
I've been three times before. Visit 1 - they had wall-to-wall Krays memorabilia, including a huge photo of the boys in dinner jackets with our Babs. Visit 2 - The Krays stuff had gone but I did get to enjoy the lovely and unexpected beer garden. Its selling point today. Visit 3 was with my brother, who impressed the actor Vas Blackwood by saying "You're the Black Shadow". An early character in Only Fools and Horses for the actor who gained more fame through "Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels".
It would have made a fitting end to the walk but in some ways, I was saved from myself. It is a soulless pub, where Madri was nearly £7 three years ago. The Mappiman wallet and taste buds could not take that.
Death
The undertakers that handled the Kray family funerals is near the world's busiest cafe, Pellicci's.
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| Incongruously placed amongst the Asian supermarkets and Italian Cafes |
St Matthews church hosted the funerals of all three Kray Brothers - Ronnie 1st, then Charlie and finally Reggie. Ronnie went out to Whitney Houston's "I will always love you". Ronnie, "My Way". Can't tell you about Charlie.
The burial plots are at Chingford Cemetery - along with the person they all loved the most. Violet.
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| St Matthews |
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| Rebuilt in the 1960s after being decimated in WWII |
Walk Details
Distance - 3.5 Miles
Geocaches - 7
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