Monday 17 June 2024

17/06/24 - City of London Pub Crawl

Bob Steel sets the route


I've certainly got my money's worth from Edition 1 of CAMRA London Pub Walks. The first walk I used for reference was way back in June 2006. 18 years later and I've got 6 of Bob's routes to complete. Before I start on the book's 2nd Edition.

City of London this time - so not much walking at all and a chance to see if the bankers really are keeping to a TWAT working week. It appears so - Monday and the streets are deserted. Whereas I would have expected pavements thronged and hushed deals over copper topped tables in a quiet corner, I have most pubs more or less to myself.

The Bell in Bush Street, a case in point. 

The Bell, Bush Lane
A leaning ledge with no-one in a suit leaning

Not actually in Bob's guide, but I am always looking to maximise an evening. A couple of Good Beer Guide Ticks before I get in the route properly.

A former Courage pub with a fine bar back, things got off to a great start. A decision to be made between TT Landlord (ubiquitous), Doom Bar (formerly ubiquitous) and the winner - Harvey's Sussex Best. Like choosing between your two favourite children and the one that followed 9 months later, after a quiet night on TV.

The Bell, Bush Lane
Euro fever at the Bell

Whilst in the Canon Street area, I included the tricky to tick Pelt TraderOnly open on a weekday, when I am usually in the smoke on a Saturday. A modern craft bar, with all the trappings you would expect. Not what I would go for in the area - where I demand history and tradition - but a fine choice of craft and yet another go at trying to understand the Kernel hype. I've enjoyed their cask bitter but the IPAs don't seem wildly different to any other.

I do learn that Big D Dry roasted are B-Tec nuts.

Pelt Trader, Dowgate Hill
Modern Craft in the City

Bob now takes charge - leading me to the only dead pub since publication. The horror - The Red Lion in Lombard Court is now an exercise bike gym.

Former Red Lion
Never catch on. Hopefully.

They come thick and fast in this part of the world and somehow, Ship's Tavern Passageway has a pub called The Swan. A small but perfectly formed Fullers house. I hatch a cunning plan to avoid bankruptcy by moving to halves.

The Swan, Ship Tavern Passage
A Small ESB Please

The Counting House is another Fullers. A former Nat West Bank, with an opulent domed ceiling reminding me of its brother in Birmingham. I could be in the Old Joint Stock. 

Counting House, Cornhill
Look Up.... 

Counting House, Cornhill
...or down.

That's it for Fullers houses and I have two weeks to find another. France's win getting me a free pint of Asahi in the in-pub promotion. Would have been two if Belgium could have stayed onside.

Onto Shepherd's Neame next, so one for the wine drinkers. Jamaica Wine House has a history going back to 1652 as London's first coffee shops. Loads of info on-line, but I will give you my individual take.

They had run out of pies.

Jamaica Wine House, Cornhill
Unusual Sandstone
Jamaica Wine House, Cornhill
What a near 400 year old doorstep looks like

But you can always rely on Tim to save your tea. The Crosse Keys the perfect dining place for the solo traveller on a budget. The Spoon's app allowing you to protect your table at all times.

Crosse Keys, Gracechurch Street
 And into the sunset,after a fine evening of ticking



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