28/06/21 - IOW Coast Path Day 2 - St Helens to Ventnor

Distance - 13.6 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Places of Interest - Bembridge Harbour, Culver Down, Sandown/Shanklin

Previous Stages - Day 1

The bus journey from East Cowes to St Helens involved a change over at Ryde, providing just enough time for bacon sarnies at the Pier Cafe.  We couldn't have started the walk in higher spirits.

Alighting at St Helens, we drop down to the sea along a residential street and navigate Bembridge Harbour.  The tide is out and there are are a collection of House Boats to admire.

Entering Bembridge - with the tide out

One of the many house boats

Once we turn left at the Pilot Inn, we are walking on the sand for the first time at Bembridge Life Boat Station.  

A half mile of Sand Walking - at Bembridge Life Boat Station

A climb back onto the Coast Path, which provides us a sneak preview of a scene that will dominate the walk.  Whitecliff, Culver Down and its monument.  It marks the furthest East point on the Island and the point where the white chalk gives way to geology that can be only described as "Mud", running the length of the Southern coast line.  We'll discuss this more on day 3's blog - as frankly, there is very little else to discuss.

Even the more solid chalk does not stop erosion and we have our first Path closed sign of the week.

A first peak at Whitecliff and Culver Down

But we have to determine how to get there.

A re-route for about 1/2 mile of road walking and we are back on the path to Culver Down - where the OS Map reveals a Big Blue Cup of Joy and a couple of Northerners coming the other way inform of an Ice Cream Kiosk that takes card.  

Getting Closer to Culver Down

What we have walked today (so far)

The Monument

Monday is the day when many of the island's pubs are closed - so we have to make do with a Mr Whippy for the day's first refreshment.  Once we are around the head, we can see Sandown Bay and are reasonably sure that we'll find something more liquid below.

That's the Route Ahead - Sandown Bay and around that distant head

Naturally, I have the Island's Good Beer Guide Pubs all marked on my GPS.  Sandown has the first on route - a back-street boozer called the Castle Inn.  The bible describes it as hosting a crib and darts team and a TV that is only turned on for special events.  

Asking Mrs M to check its opening hours are pointless.  As soon as we start along the promenade, we find a rather wonderful Beach Bar in prime position.  She tells me to "stuff my old man's pub, we're stopping here".

To be fair, it made sense in the sunshine.

Its impossible to tell where Sandown ends and Shanklin begins, but we battle the proper holiday makers past the pier and the lift and find another pub at Shanklin Chine that is just too good to ignore.

Fishermans Cottage is a thatched roof pub hidden away in the woods that reach the shoreline.  It would have been rude to pass-by - especially as the Coast Path led us to the door.

Fisherman's Cottage - for Adnams Ghost Ship

We're hitting the double digits for today's miles and the stretch to Ventnor is one to forget.  The clue is in the name on the map - "The Landslip".  There are diversions aplenty and we reach Ventnor through the undeniably pretty Bonchurch that I would like to say was worth the extra height climbed.

The views were certainly nothing to write home about - but at least there was none of yesterday's mud.

The Landslip

We're rather done in by the time we reach Ventnor - but on entry to the town, I spy the Volunteer... the 2nd of today's potential Good Beer Guide Ticks.  One of the smallest pubs on the Island, the front door is open but only for the landlord to tell us "sometime in July, dependent on Boris".

Fear not - There are two Good Beer Guide entries in Ventnor.

One for the Dubious Pub Tickers Committee - the threshold was crossed

With negotiation skills that could have got me a job with ASLEF in the 1970's, I have to convince Mrs M that walking past the bus stop - all the way to the far end Ventnor's promenade was worth it.

This is where the Spyglass Inn lives.  What I didn't know then was there would be a queue at 4pm on a Monday.  Don't holidaymakers have their tea at funny times?

The Spyglass Inn - and the queue.  We were too tired to go elsewhere

Things were stacked against its inclusion.  

• Obviously a tourist pub.  You can't imagine locals queuing outside for a pub.
• Not many Good Beer Guide entries are guarded by a Plastic Pirate
• It's a Marstons House

After a 20 minute wait - we were shown to a shady table with the expected views.  The staff were superb, treating us well and the beer - a reasonable Ringwood Forty-Niner - came as frequently as a man that walked 13 miles in the summer time could demand.

The food was exceptional.

Now to get those legs going to get back to the bus stop.