Friday, 27 February 2026

27/02/26 - Coffee at Ferryside

Please, No More Mud


Even the route planner, Julie Royle away from her usual Worcestershire patch, states that there isn't much in Ferryside.

A lonely but frequently served railway station. A pub that opens at the odd time of 13:00 on a Friday. A cafe, taken advantage of. Free parking, taking advantage of with thanks. Golden sand/mud dependent on the tide, as the River Towey flows into the sea. A well maintained coastal path. Rain. Deep mud.

Ferryside Beach
Willow, exploring the Ferryside foreshore

The walk follows the Wales Coast Path up and over the headland. Past converted farmhouses with ambitious outdoor swimming pools. The going is unpleasant. Streams where there shouldn't be streams. Mud everywhere else. We have had enough. The route suggests a 2-mile excursion to Llansaint. I've already checked and the pub is "temporarily closed". We can see the church. We aim to make our way back to civilisation on lanes, rather than fields.

Disappointment with the White Lion opening hours more than made up for with the beach hosted coffee shop. Attention to detail and a friendly service. 

The Cafe
The coffee shop - looking over the estuary
White Lion, Ferryside
The of-little-use-at-midday White Lion Hotel, Ferryside

I might to change the name of the blog to Mappiman's Real Coffee Walks. 

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, October 2016, Walk 20


Wednesday, 25 February 2026

25/02/26 - On the Trail of...... Dylan Thomas

Dry Wednesday

Into Laugharne - a quiet estuary town with a famous son. The famous son who pronounced the place "the strangest town in Wales".

Dylan Thomas drinking in Brown's with Caitlin. They now share a grave.

I've been following Dylan Thomas around the globe already. I have drunk pints (yes, they served pints during Covid) in the French House/York Minster in Soho. This is where he lost the manuscript to Under Milk Wood.

I've holidayed in Newquay - where there is a sign for the fictional Llareggub near the Black Lion.

I've drunk in the White Horse Tavern, Greenwich, New York. Maybe not the 18 straight whiskies that led to his untimely death at just 39.

Can you see a theme emerging? It's a wonder he had time to write any poems with the amount of boozing he was reported to enjoy.

Laugharne is the location of his final home/writing place and indeed resting place. An Adventure Lab Cache takes me to all of the key locations, adding on his grave to the AA Walk originally plotted.

It's a mixed figure of 8 walk over Sir John's Hill to the south Delacorse to the North. The stretches along the River Taf estuary are stunning. The inland sections a muddy bog of overgrown brambles.

Dylan Thomas, overlooking Laugharne's Norman Castle
The lad himself, looking at the Norman Castle Ruins
Signs for the Dylan Thomas Birthday Walk
The creator of the DT Birthday Walk lives at Salt House Farm. Prepare for a chat if you meet him
Dylan and Caitlin Thomas Grave
A simple memorial
Dylan Thomas Boathouse
The Boat House - his final home
Dylan Thomas Writing Shed
His writing shed - formerly a garage for Laugharne's 1st motor car

Walk over - now for refreshments. The Internet is little help - Whatpub, Google and very annoyingly, establishment's own websites all have different and often incorrect opening hours.  I'm looking at you - the New Three Mariners.... Good Beer Guide 2026 accredited you may be but midday opening in the week, my hairy aris. 

And the ironic thing is for a town that celebrates a dipsomaniac? Not one of the four pubs is open on a Wednesday lunchtime. 

Laugharne - a dry in the sunshine hours town.

Mrs M - a paragon of sensibility - says that they should at least take it in turns to open on alternate days.

New Three Mariners
A special place in hell for when their own website is incorrect
New Three Mariners
Didn't even get chance to undo my wasitcoat
Cross House Inn
Closed
The Fountain Inn
Closed
Brown's Hotel
Closed - with the man's face on the sign

Even the cafe's were closed. The only sign of life? The Chipper.

My god, you get a lot for £13.

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Geocaches - 5

Walk Inspiration - AA Walks Through History, Walk 99

Tuesday, 24 February 2026

24/02/26 - The Royal Oak, Saundersfoot

The Miners Path

In the 19th century, Saundersfoot was a key exporting point for the anthracite coalfield that ran inland around Stepaside and Kilgetty. The harbour was built to ship coal across the Bristol Channel, and tramways once ran down through wooded valleys to the sea.

The tramways have now been converted to tarmacked footpaths and named the Miners Path - absolutely perfect for the conditions, when spring makes an appearance after the relentless rain. Today's walk completed in balmy 12 degrees. Warm enough for Mrs M to declare we should eat al fresco. A decision she soon changed her mind about.

We follow the tramways to Wiseman's Bridge, continue along the Wales Coast Path to Summerhill, before following the lovely Pleasant Valley back to our beginnings.

Coast path to Wiseman's Bridge
Coast Path to Wiseman's Bridge
Saundersfoot through a tunnel
Looking at Saundersfoot through a tram tunnel
The Pleasant Valley
Willow - on the Pleasant Valley

A mooch around the harbour and then the hunt for that most seaside of delicacies - fish and chips. 

Why not combine worlds? The Royal Oak is the village Good Beer Guide tick. It runs a lunchtime specials menu. Fresh haddock and chips for a tenner.  Washed down with some proper Welsh beer.

The Royal Oak, Saundersfoot
Mrs M convincing herself we should dine outside
The Royal Oak, Saundersfoot
Glamorgan Brewery Cwrw Gorslas
The Royal Oak, Saundersfoot
Defeat admitted - the view from the bar

Walk Details

Distance - 5.75 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, March 2023, Walk 21

Geocaches - 11

Monday, 23 February 2026

23/02/26 - The Ship Aground, Pembrey

No Sea at Pembrey

Another dog-sit - Wales best Bed and Breakfast for a cockapoo - in the hamlet of Llanllawddog. An indication of the problems I am going to have getting the blog proofread this week. 

To escape the rain, we pick one of the several coastal walks that I have programmed. We are hoping that Penybedd Woods may provide some shelter.

Penybedd Woods
Meet Willow - the latest Mappiman Victim of bad weather walks

The walk is forgettable. We follow St Illtyd's Way through the forest rides, cross the railway line and have a convoluted climb in the woods around a farm called Coed. The high ground should have provided sea views, but there's nothing doing. Mizzle.

Only Pembrey can save the day. A cafe - dog friendly and warm bara brith with butter. Two pubs in front of a sinister-looking church. The Red Lion long closed. The Pembrey Country Inn clad in scaffolding.

Pembrey
Pubs - 50% of them open.

The Good Beer Guide 2026 insists that we continue 3/4 of a mile towards Burry Port. The Ship Aground recommended and proudly proclaiming it is open 7 days a week. This consistency deserves support.

We find a solid boozer - thick, unplastered walls, a separate dining room and a surprisingly small bar. A collection of friendly locals and to justify the chef's wages, two couples ordering food.

The Ship Aground, Pembrey
Ship Aground

Just the two beers on - I choose a Gower Gold, which probably needs to be renamed Gower Cold. Freezing. Stuffed into a Worthington glass hardly showing a dedication to the landlord's art. But the local CAMRA must have found something to recommend.

The Ship Aground, Pembrey
Ignore the lacings and see the icings

Sand Dunes on the map surely mean the sea is not far? Pembrey Downs are protected by a creek system.

We saw nothing.

Pembrey Burrow
I cannot see the sea

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, November 2024, Walk 18


Thursday, 19 February 2026

19/02/26 - The Eagle, Cookley

Spin Eagle

The Eagle at Cookley is filed under "Locals" in the Worcestershire Historic Pubs book. Centre of the village and providing sustenance for the workers at the local metal-working factory. We then have some details of its names since inception in 1834. The Spin Eagle, the Eagle and Spur and now simply the Eagle.

First - a walk, which meets the requirement well. No mud. A jaunt down the Worcester/Staffordshire Canal - including the tunnel that cuts directly under the village houses. (For future reference, it is possible to get to the village - Google maps was unclear on planning). Solid paths through agricultural land connected to Lea Castle and back to explore the village.

Wolverhampton Canal
Joining the canal near Caunsall
Cookley Tunnel
Which came first? The tunnel or the houses?
Mud Free Paths
Surprisingly mud free
Lea Castle
Entrance to Lea Castle
Inside St Peters Church, Cookley
Inside St Peters

It looks like Cookley supported three pubs - The Red Lion is now a convenience store. The Bull and the Eagle sit side by side in the village centre, opposite the chipper.

The Eagle
Impressive in size, if not in colour

The Eagle is multiple houses knocked together, which provides a higgledy-piggledy internal experience, bars lead to corridors, which lead to a lounge containing the king of pub furniture.. The Chesterfield. The cask also needs to be hunted - the main bar looking disappointingly keg only. Two hand pulls on another bar - Wye Valley Pyoneer and HPA.

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 6


Monday, 16 February 2026

16/02/26 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Bedford

London Prices

Why Bedford, you are probably right to ask? We can blame the Great British Rail Sale. A four-stage, four-hour journey for the grand total of £3.60. Every connection on time. Seat and charging points available.

Coming Home

A first visit - so a chance to investigate the town and its famous residents. Adventure Lab Caches taking me to the architecture and its famous sons. John Bunyan, writer of the Pilgrim's Progress. John Howard, a High Sheriff and prison reformer. And the greatest Guv of them all.


Let's find the places where he learned his trade. I'll blog the Good Beer Guide Pubs, but a shout out to a first. The Hidden Barrel. My first Lithuanian-themed micropub.

The Hidden Barrel, Bedford
Volfas Engelman Imperial Porteris all round

The Castle

As usual, getting the timings correct is key. There are four GBG pubs in town and each has unique opening hours.... 'Spoons leads the way on customer service - others at 2pm, 3pm and 5pm. The Castle is a 3pm opener but I don't think the punters have got the memo.

The Castle, Bedford
Charles Wells Hotel/Pub

The place is empty on arrival. This includes bar staff. A walk around the central bar finds no one. If I hadn't set the hand dryers off to announce my arrival, I may well have walked back out again.

80's soft rock and a £5.80 Ghost Ship (a beer totally on theme with the experience). In the 30 minutes I was there, one other punter came in - looked around, found no service and promptly took his Golden Retriever elsewhere.

The Castle, Bedford
The Lost Punter
The Devonshire Arms

Opens at 5pm but a lengthy walk to this out of town, terraced locals' pub. The Three Cups can also be used as a staging post.

The Devonshire Arms, Bedford
More Charlie Wells

Nice low lighting, a log fire flickering away at a far end and a handful of punters who have timed it for "bolt scraping". A fair selection of cask - with London Pride again north of a fiver. I think I am either going to have to turn advertising on the blog or start a Patreon. This is becoming unaffordable.

The Devonshire Arms, Bedford
£2 down and I've only walked from the bar to the fire

The Wellington Arms

Others have told me that this is the best pub in town. And the others are right. Head and shoulders above the rest.

The Wellington Arms, Bedford
Night falls on Bedford

A central island bar, with seating all round. Plenty of pubby chat and pubby paraphernalia. Bass on cask, but my eyes were drawn to the Belgian/German bottle fridge. Is a 750ml St Bernardus ABT 12 a good idea for a pub crawl? No, obviously. Instead, I try and recreate Christmas in the cruellest month.

The Wellington Arms, Bedford
Let's get the party started

If my evening meal hadn't been calling, I would have stayed the night.

The Wellington Arms, Bedford
No need for certificates.... everyone knows it's Bedford's finest

The Pilgrim's Progress

Curried up in the rather too posh Three Rooms (wine glasses! roses! potato and chickpeas in a biryani!) the 'spoons is on the way back to Lenny's Purple Palace.

£1.85 pints and plenty of people.

The retiree adventurer's friend.

Thanks Timbo!

Pilgrims Progress, Bedford
An alternative to the Premier Inn

Saturday, 14 February 2026

14/02/26 - British Camp

On the Trail of Sir Edward Elgar..... Again


It was always the plan to follow up my first Elgar inspired walk. British Camp - a ramparted hill fort - provided the inspiration for the cantata, Caractacus. I've listened to it.... once.... it goes on a bit.

British Camp has long been linked by local folklore to the last stand of the British chieftain Caractacus against the Romans, even though historians now doubt the battle took place there; the dramatic Iron Age ramparts and sweeping views made it easy for Victorian imagination to place a heroic resistance on its summit. That legend inspired Edward Elgar, who grew up walking the Malvern Hills and in 1898 composed the cantata Caractacus, portraying the gathering of the tribes, their defeat by Rome, and Caractacus’s noble dignity in captivity, turning the hills into a musical symbol of ancient Britain, loss, and quiet heroism.

Public transport options to British Camp are limited to summertime at the weekend. Driving would normally pass St Wulstan's Church - Elgar's final resting place. However, long-term road closures send you around the western side of the Malverns, on pot-holed roads, where the expected sunshine had led to post-walk gridlock. I planned to stop for a photo of a place, previously visited. Circumstance dictates that I lift an image from the Internet.


I chose the route from Juile Royle's Worcester News book. Malvern has myriad footpaths - both official and unofficial, map-marked and waiting to be found. The hand-drawn map is of limited value and mistakes were made. Lost in Gullet Wood. Missing out Hollybush through misreading the instructions.

Pick the bones out of that!

Our plan was to use the 24-hour escape from the relentlessly brutal rain and avoid muddy paths and flooded fields. The first half of the walk was a success - British Camp, Millennium Hill and Hangman's hill leaving our boots unscathed.

British Camp Ramparts
Ramparts clearly identifiable 
On British Camp
Happy Days on British Camp

The return was on the lower common land - and was of course a filthy mud pit.  It could almost put you off walking for life. Escaping the mud leads to a stiff climb along the side of British Camp Reservoir.

Options to try and improve morale? The café? The bar at Malvern Hills Hotel? We are nothing if not creatures of habit.

A short but tricky drive to the Nag's Head. The finest pub in the land.

Berrow Downs
Sheep on Berrow Downs
British Camp Reservoir
A stiff climb up the side of British Camp Reservoir

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Julie Royle's Worcestershire Walks, Walk 42

Thursday, 12 February 2026

12/02/26 - The Sun and Slipper, Mamble

Are you questioning your life?

These are the words emblazoned outside Neen Sollars Church and my answer - quite frankly - is yes.

I need to get out of the house and the minute I arrive at Mamble, the heavens open. Another day in the rain. It's becoming biblical now. For future records, let it be known that Ashwood Bank in Worcestershire has now experienced 42 days of continuous rain.

What would have been a fine walk is a relentless slop-fest of mud and despite owning better waterproofs, I have misjudged.

At least there were a couple of interesting "doors open" churches to explore.

Mamble St John the Baptist

St John the Baptist, Mamble
St John the Baptist, Mamble

Dating from 1200 - a handy sign tells the story of all the treasures available. An effigy of a recumbent, cross legged knight. C14th stained glass windows, hidden from the destruction of idolatry in a manure pit before being refitted. C16th brass, floor mounted memorials to John Blount. A bricked off Catholic chapel with a collapsed roof.

The internet suggests there is a memento mori skeleton in the South aisle. Indeed, there are pictures of it on the Internet. I must have been following the guide too closely, as there is no mention of it and I failed to notice it.
St John the Baptist, Mamble
Instruction Manual for a Church
St John the Baptist, Mamble
The Cross Legged Knight
St John the Baptist, Mamble
Meet the Blounts
St John the Baptist, Mamble
Only a couple of sections lost

St John the Baptist, Mamble
One to find next time

Neen Sollars All Saints

Neen Sollars Church
Church Farm - looking at All Saints Church, Neen Sollars

Quite the treasure inside - a 1624 alabaster memorial to Humfrey Coningsby. A traveller "never seene by any of his acquaintance on this side, the seas, or beyond, not any certainty knowne of his death, where, when, or how from his first journey to his last was 16 yeares & 6 months"

A man after my own heart.

All Saints Church, Neen Sollars
Quite something to stumble upon
All Saints Church, Neen Sollars
Worthy of a Zoom

The Walk

North East from Mamble, where I got a little lost in Wissett's Wood before finding the forest ride to Neen Sollars. Crossing the River Rea before lanes back to Mamble.

Grim.

Rea Valley
Day 42 of 2026 rain. And there have only been 43 days in 2026


The Sun and Slipper

The real reason I am here is to get another tick from my 1960s Historic Inns of Worcestershire Guide Book.

Sun and Slipper, Mamble
Uniquely Named

The first thing to note is there has been major modernisation, with the timber framing either removed or plastered over. 

Sun and Slipper, Mamble
Which one is preferred

The entrance is from the car park at the side, where the first door along the corridor is to a bar, where the only source of light is from the log fire. There is no way I am not sitting in front of that, even if I am in the dark.  

I can hear plenty of noise from the restaurant next door, so the place is surviving from food sales rather than beer sales.

That said, the Three Tuns Charter - Untappd has it as a best bitter, the pump clip advertises it as an amber mild - is wonderful. 

Sun and Slipper, Mamble
The Day Saver! (and the log fire)

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Walk Inspiration - 100 Walks in Hereford and Worcester, Walk 72

Geocaches - 4