Monday, 15 December 2025

15/12/25 - Dunnerdale for the Newfield Inn

Ford the Waterfalls

More than 10" of rain over 24 hours in Seathwaite. Our only surprise, the rain stopped 24 hours earlier than predicted.


This walk is a fine example of why I should carefully study both the route guide and the OS Map.

After spotting a little car park at Seathwaite - hopefully high enough above the River Duddon - we abandon the car journey. There is just no point risking "white van man" on these single track lanes. The Evri driver - for it was sure to be an Evri driver - nearly putting himself up a hedge half a mile back.

The River Duddon
A safe place to start - The River Duddon

For a route from "Best Pub Walks" - this is a remote challenge of some beauty. "Not for the unadventurous or the livy-livered" is the opening line.

We follow Tarn Beck up the valley and past Tongue House. It's squelchy underfoot, with Mrs M occasionally disappearing up to her knees. For a border terrier, Ruby makes light work of it on her little legs.

Tongue House
The livestock at Tongue House Farm

We can see the torrent of waterfalls ahead - and it's after a careful look at the OS Map, I start to have concern, that I bravely keep to myself. No point in worrying Mrs M, still chuntering about "Trench Foot". The crossing of the rapids simply shows the path stopping and restarting on the other side. Where are those magic letters "FB"?

The guide book;

"You'll soon reach a point where Tarn Beck plunges from your right over a spectacular series of waterfalls and shoots..... I'll leave you to find your own way across"
   
I have never been so pleased to see a bridge. Truly a case of "The trail will provide".

Ford the Waterfall
Relief

Things soon revert to type - the path becomes indistinct and bares no resemblance to the OS Map. Unnecessary climbs and descents and complicated fences and stone walls to try and find a crossing. The forested area of Pike How Close a disaster area. I am not sure what you can call a forest where every single tree has fallen down in a previous storm.  It makes for a very difficult crossing.

Top of Dunnerdale Valley
Relief, as we emerge at the top of the valley, through the forest

The return is far more pleasant - through a Dunnerdale Forest on proper rides. Where there is a stream, there is a bridge. To the side of the gloriously named Wallowbarrow Crag and a debate about whether to try the pub.

Wallowbarrow Crag
Around Wallowbarrow Crag

Incredibly, for somewhere so remote, I have been to the Newfield Inn before. It formed part of the Inn Way to the Lake District. My notes declaring it the cheapest pint of the week at £3. See if you can guess the year, without clicking the link.

Negotiations ensue... I put up a good case for going, Mrs M declares - and I quote - she is soaked through to the gusset and would rather head home.

We both agree that the chances of it being open at 1pm on a Monday in winter are slim.

Newfields Inn, Seathwaite
2nd Time around for Mappiman

The trail provides for the second time today. The outer door is ajar and to placate Mrs M and her damp pants, the log burner is set to "furnace".

We might be the only customers - but the barman is ready and waiting - looking resplendent in a tie and waistcoat combo. We express our surprise at his opening but in a phrase that will bring joy to the heart of pub tickers everywhere he states "you have to keep consistent hours".

Newfields Inn, Seathwaite
Unexpected Keswick Gold

I really should have explored more and brought better internal photos but we were kept enrapt by conversions about everything from graphite mining (boo Keswick for stealing the glory!), Napoleon, Americans on sheep safaris and how poor Sealskinz gloves are in comparison to their socks.

I need to rethink Mrs M's Xmas present.

Although they might do pants.

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Best Pub Walks in the Lake District - Walk 19 

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