24/02/25 - Good Beer Guide Pubs of Ulverston

Population Representation Discrepancies 

The question I have is "Does Ulverston have the highest Good Beer Guide Pubs by population?"

Barrow-in-Furness. Population 67K has one Good Beer Guide Pub. Nearby Ulverston, Pop. 11K has 7.

More investigation required, starting with a six mile walk from Dalton-In-Furness Abbey. Where we were too early for the Clarence🙃https://t.co/4zOECAh6DM pic.twitter.com/2fhOLhtyDD

— Mappiman (@Mappiman1) February 19, 2025

I've asked ChatGPT for the answer. It says its too difficult, but does provide an answer to a different question;

Determining which town has the most Good Beer Guide pubs relative to its population requires specific data that isn't readily available. However, Rhayader, a town in Wales, is renowned for having a high concentration of pubs per capita, with one pub for every 173 residents.

While this statistic highlights the town's vibrant pub culture, it doesn't specifically indicate how many of these establishments are featured in the Good Beer Guide.

Barrow's sole entry discovered, so over a week - we try and fit in as many as possible.

The Mill for Sunday Lunch - it had the highest rating on TripAdvisor for food.

The Mill, Ulverston

Lancaster Brewery tied house, just like the Duke of Edinburgh, Barrow's GBG entry. Perhaps unsurprising for a place named the Mill during the climate crisis, it had only just re-opened after flooding. Perhaps I should take this into account after pretty shoddy service. Forgotten drinks orders, disappearing waiting staff and condiments delivered after the meal finished. I was that mad that I checked the bill for service charge, to ask for it to be removed. Got myself all worked up for nothing. There was no service charge.

Beer fans may be pleased to know I very much like Lancaster Red.

On a separate night I managed to convince Mrs M to be the designated driver, provided I stuck to a 3 pub limit. Kofi Annan levels of persuasion to beef this up from two.

In a town famous for 50% of the Kings of Comedy, the Stan Laurel had to be one.

Another fine mess - we were 15 minutes before its 5pm opening

After a week of very nice traditional bitter, we decided to give the town's craft bar a go. Gather following the micropub blueprint to the letter. A shop conversion, (downstairs at least) a single roomer. Two booths and some high stools around a homemade bar. 

Gather for the Craft

Also as expected, multiple keg in a variety of size dispensing. Two cask. I looked for something that wasn't going to cause joint account woe and went for a cask Deya Friends of the Podcast. Which might just be worst named beer of 2025.

But in a nearly correct receptacle

Farmers Arms at the top of town undid its early good work by being the only pub in Cumbria that doesn't allow dogs (citation needed, excludes JDW). On entry, I was delighted to find a large platter of complimentary Hot Dogs, with two types of condiment. 

Live, Laugh, Love

We got settled next to a couple of gents who were keen to engage in conversation. We are sitting a small Border Terrier that made itself scarce under the table. I never even thought to check about dog access. Eventually, she was noticed and we were asked to vacate to the terrace. Where an outdoor gas fire showed just why the Mill floods.

Warming a Tirrels Borrowdale Bitter

The limited twitter conversation generated recommended the Old Friends as the best pub in town. A 5 minute walk uphill for a fine community pub, which had a packed front bar and plenty of banter. Alas, like Mary, Joseph and a Border Terrier Jesus, there was no room at the inn. 

Mrs M and the scourge of the Farmers Arms

We relocated to a side room, to listen to the pubby chat from afar.  A shame.  

Beer-wise - there were at least four casks on. I narrowed it down to an old-school and very traditional choice between Tetleys and Golden Hen.

The loneliness of a sideroom Tetley drinker

With a five star dog sitting review, we have been offered a repeat visit on a couple of dates. I will bring you the rest of the GBG Pubs later in the year. 

Opening times permitting.

24/02/25 - Tarn Hows

Saving the best till last

A week of varied walking comes to an end. We have had mountains, caves, beaches and valleys. 

Today, we need a pub lunch to steel ourselves for the long drive home in the dark. Hasty re-planning to take us to the plenty of choice Coniston.

I find a route on Komoot. No upvotes, no reviews but its an absolute beaut. Might have something to do with it being the first day of spring.

Start off at my second secret parking spot and work our way to the North Shore.

Photo tells where we are

A lovely climb through Hill Fell (surely one of those word is superfluous) and then we emerge, unexpectedly for me who hasn't studied the map, at Tarn Hows. Mrs M refuses to believe it is man made, not least because the last thing they need up here is another big lake.

Tarn Hows is a picturesque lake in the Lake District, England, known for its serene beauty and stunning views of the surrounding fells. Despite its natural appearance, it is a man-made tarn, created in the 19th century by damming and merging three smaller tarns—Low Tarn, Middle Tarn, and High Tarn—by James Marshall, who owned the land at the time. Later, it became part of the estate of Beatrix Potter, who played a role in preserving the area before it was passed to the National Trust. Today, Tarn Hows is a popular walking destination, offering a scenic circular route and a tranquil escape into nature.

Simply gorgeous and instantly recognisable to the owners of the dog that we will return to them (and their house) this afternonn.

Approaching Tarn Hows

We're going to miss Ruby - a fine walking companion

The route back to civilisation is rather special too - the Cumbria Way jumping straight to the top of Long Distance Paths that need to be tackled.

Mondays can always be like this

I believe that there are four pubs in Coniston. The Crown looks like it has been scrubbed up and expanded. The Yewdale hotel was a former CAMRA  regional pub of the year. I wonder if the interesting landlord of the Sun is still drinking more than his customers and messing about with local politics.

Yet there can only be one winner. Mrs M asks if I need another photo of the Black Bull.

I'm not sure when I will be back here - but I almost certainly will.

2nd visit this week

Walk Details

Distance - 5.5 Miles

Geocaches - 3 and two ALC

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

22/02/25 - Walney Island

Komoot has the answer

Walney Island, a spit of land 11 miles by 1 mile off the coast of Barrow-in-Furness, was never on our travel itinery.

Being in the Lake District, we did not expect such seaside weather. 

But where to go for walk? When in doubt, I always to turn to the app Komoot, and this fine route will reveal two coast lines in the middle of the island.

The seaward side is geocache laden and part of the newly formed English Coast Path.

Mrs M Striding off to find the caches

Vanlife

The round house cafe provides a cake and tea stop and we move inland to walk the estuary at Jubilee Bridge until we can see its Northern intlet.

Blue skies in Cumbria

We wanted to see Piel Island, so a car relocation to the Southern Nature Reserve. £3 pp entry fee, which Mrs M tried to talk me into spending. Ultimately, our minds made up by a dog ban.

Still, we got the photo

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 9 and 3 Adventure Lab Caches

Walk Inspiration - Komoot User Loaded

21/02/25 - The Pubs of Spark Bridge and Lowick Bridge

Opening Hours

A grim Friday at the edge of the Lake District. The planned six mile walk has to be halved. We will look for sanctuary in pubs. They must be open on a Friday.

Bessy Bank Lane, ever upwards, until we make the wrong decision to trust an ancient field system. Mrs M says it doesn't look that bad. Mud, ankle deep, rather than knee.

Mrs M and Ruby on the wily, windy moors

We look at Spark Bridge from above.

Civilisation below

Two pubs available.

The Royal Oak has only just reopened. With keenness that will probably wilt, they are currently open all day, every day. Even Mondays.

A very warm welcome, where Ruby the border terrier was offered free doggy ice-cream and I was asked to pay for the single casks available. Wainwright brewed in Burton-on-Trent, rather than the county where the mountains are.

The Royal Oak, Sparkbridge - Probably open

Ever a competist, I consider the nearby Farmer's Arms from the comfort of the Oak's fire place. I cannot believe these hours are true.

Open No Hours

So I phone up. No answer. Risking not having another Wainwright, I decide to walk the 1/4 mile and message Mrs M if I am successful. It is Friday early evening. I am bound to be successful. You would not believe the look of disdain the owner gave me when I found him in his car park. I said I couldn't believe his website opening hours were correct and thought I would check. In the rain.

The Farmers Arms

Talking to locals, it appears as though the main building is now some sort of workshop, offering classes in pottery. The stables bar is the small building to the left. A review on pubsgalore seems to sum it up, rather enthusiastically;

The ambience is somewhere between art museum, artisanal pottery gallery and ethnic cafe, with the pub not exactly an afterthought, just differently presented.

Pubs are coming in all different sizes and shapes these days. But I still like mine open on weekends.

The pick of the bunch is the Red Lion which, rather incredibly, has been found by the local CAMRA. It's remote and serves a tiny hamlet of probably less than 100 souls but has made it into the 2025 guide.

Open every other day.

Winter has come

We drank Bank Top Brewery Flat Cap in here on a couple of occasions. The best time was Friday just after opening time. Everyone in the village comes in to say hello. As they all recognised the dog we are sitting, we were soon involved in conversations.  We had questions.... Has whoever lives in Bridgefield Farm House been checked on? We were worried her Xmas tree - with lights on - is still in the window in February. Apparently, the lady is a year round Christmas lover.

No music, standing room only, a landlord that keeps a tab on a piece of paper, dog, super friendly punters.  Wonderful.

Red Lion By Night

Red Lion by Day

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Halved from Best Pub Walks in Lakeland

 

20/02/25 - The Anglers Arms, Haverthwaite

Gimme Shelter

Appalling weather in Cumbria. It was only a matter of time. Horizontal rain and high winds. We decide that a woodland walk may protect us from the worst of it. 

And the plan very nearly works.

We start with the end in mind. An abandoned road at the side of the Anglers Arms. Will it be open on our return? If it is, what can we expect from an imposing building in a remote, sparsely populated village that could really do with a lick of paint?

Green on the side aspect

The walk is simple, but rarely less than gorgeous - down and over the River Leven. Into mud free paths at the old glassworks for a wooded route to Backbarrow. Under the main road and up and over Haverthwaite Heights. Looks like a heritage railway runs through it and the signage points out it is ancient woodland (more than 400 years old) and used for charcoal production.  Occasional views over Morecambe Bay and the hills.

River Leven, with the heights behind

The Glassworks

Paths on the heights. View better in person.

Alas, Lane Ends proves true to its word. No way across A590T, so we are forced to double back to get caught in the rain in an exposed sheep field. We need the pub.

Which is thankfully open at midday on a Thursday. Google Maps in this area is often missing opening hours or dangerously wrong. With our local having Tuesday and Thursday's closed (unless its Folk Night), you can see why its tougher than you think to get a pint.

This is a Thwaites house. The sandwiches were excellent. There were other punters. My Gold was in fine condition. But those that know the blog, know there will be moans.

A 30p surcharge for having a half..... but at least they had a well displayed price list. Cask > £5.  An automatic 8% service charge. For delivering sandwiches to the back room of a pub. And when you count your chips (£4.50), you know you are in trouble.

I suppose they need to squeeze every pence out of their punters.

Back room in a pub? Well, we did have a floral display

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Pub Walks in South Cumbria, Walk 13

Geocaches - 1

19/02/25 - Dalton-In-Furness Abbey

Agri-Cultural

An attempt to beat the rain. Ruby the Border Terrier is rudely awakened at the unholy hour of 8:15am to be whisked off to Goose Green, Dalton-in-Furness.

Today's walking a mixture of farmland and historical culture.

The Cistercian Way runs 24 miles from Barrow to Grange under sands. We complete a short leg of it to the Abbey.

Cistercian Way - a nice footpath out of town

Ruby and Mrs M keen to soak up some culture

Furness Abbey

Bow Bridge

Furness Abbey, located near Dalton-in-Furness in Cumbria, was founded in 1123 by Stephen, Count of Boulogne, who later became King Stephen of England. Originally established as a Savigniac monastery, it joined the Cistercian order in 1147 and grew to become one of the wealthiest and most influential monasteries in England. However, its prosperity came to an end in 1537 when it was dissolved by Henry VIII during the Dissolution of the Monasteries.

That's the culture done. It's farmland through a grey looking Newton. Mercifully mud free but the weather turns increasingly dreich until the heavens open as we reach the town outskirts. Not bad enough that Mrs M wont leave me and Ruby out in the rain, whilst she takes her time deliberating which two scones offer the best value for money at the local delicatessen.

Signage home - I've also been to Shatton in the Peak District

Pub wise - we are far too early for the earthy looking Clarence Beerhouse.

A shame, I like a Beer House

I'm a big Hairy Bikers fan, so felt it apt to visit Dave's Home Town of Barrow for the first time. Alas, the weather was too grim for a mooch but we did manage to get to the sole Good Beer Guide Pub. For reference, Barrow has a population of 67,400 people. Ulverston, population 12,000 has 7 Good Beer Guide entries. 

Without investigation, I will not know if this makes sense.

Paying 95p for parking using only new apps could fill a blog on its own. But we manage it and make our way into the Duke of Edinburgh. I swear the man I am about to negotiate dog entry with is the same fella that served me on Sunday in the Mill. As soon as I hear his accent I find out how hard working Northerners are. Even when they come from Portugal.

The pub? Owned by the same Lancaster Brewery as the Mill. Lancaster Red doubles it entries on my Untappd. 

Hotel Fancy - Good Enough for DH Lawrence in 1914

Lancashire, La, La La

When steak got too expensive, I started ordering gammon. I don't know where to go now that gammon and egg is £21. The singular was no a typo. One egg.

Tune in for my next blog, where we group test crisps.

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Walk Inspiration - AA Walks Through History, Walk 49

Geocaches - 2 and 7 Adventure Lab Caches

18/02/25 - Cathedral Cavern and the Three Shires Inn, Little Langdale

Local's Knowledge

During doggie handover, our hosts recommended this walk. Sometimes, you need to listen to those in the know. After yesterday's mountain top exploits, it was always going to be more pleasant to look at them from below.

Sticking to the valley floor today

We start this belter of a walk at Tilberthwaite - a bizarre car park situation where there is a Ringo controlled car park one side of the stream and an NT car park - sans machines - on the other. I hedge my bets by leaving my NT Card on the dashboard.

Then, its an easy balloon walk from the holiday cottages. The western side more wild than an actual road that says at the Little Langdale end "Unsuitable for cars".

Outward highlight - Slater's Bridge C17th Packhorse bridge.

Mappiman at one end

Mrs M, with dog egg, at the main point

More views from the valley

Mid Point Highlight - The Three Shires Inn is a very convenient 11am opener. A hotel, with a proper bar to the rear. Spartanly decorated but with the obligatory log burner. And importantly, Loweswater Gold. The week would not have been complete without finding a beer that once made me cry after four pints. Waking after a mid ramble nap on a little inlet in Lake Buttermere may a have had something to do with this expression of emotion.

Fine mid point break

Summertime drink of the gods, not bad in mid winter

Return Highlight - all the families are off to Cathedral Cavern - a deep slate mining quarry, where you can walk above, work your way down some tricky steps and find a couple of exits through different length tunnels. The longer one - where a torch is required - has much less water.

From above

A more exciting end to a walk than usual

Day 1 was featureless moorland. Day 2 was sub zero mountains in a howling gale. This, on day 3, led Mrs M to comment that she wished our hosts had planned all our walks.

And so do I.

Walk Details

Distance - 4.25 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration

17/02/25 - Dow Crag

Walna Scar Road - only for the fearless

Every year, I like to walk at least one Wainwright. I currently sit at 87 completed. There are 214. I need to get a wriggle on.

Today's walk begins at the end of Walna Scar Road. My god. Whoever designed it clearly wasn’t thinking of a Seat Ateca. Should I ever attempt it again, I’ll be sure to take a longer run-up—and possibly say a small prayer.

As we set off, snow flurries dance in the air. A picturesque sight, but also a reminder that even the slightest dusting would have left us stranded at the top, contemplating a new life in the fells. "Take up walking to lower your stress levels," they say. Right.

For cars, Walna Scar road runs out at a rather large car park. Now Ringo Controlled and they must have put a mast in somewhere. Didn't stop at least three cars winging it. Yellow penalty notes on drivers side windows are going to ruin your afternoon. At least I know the app works.

From this point on, its a historical pack horse track that leads from Coniston to the Duddon Valley.  A gentle introduction to the days walking.

Ruby on Walna Scar Road - Dow Crag behind

We head North West to Goat Tarn. Photos taken - the Hause behind our access point to the tops.

Mrs M unconvinced there is a path

But look, she is on it and above me

Few photos from this point on. It all gets a little survivalist. On a summer's day, this would have been a near perfect introductory walk to the fells. Slightly challenging, but once the height is gained, a great ridge walk with some super views over the Coniston Massif. 

In February - and contrary to the forecasts - the wind was fierce. Dry your eyes fierce. Now you know why everyone coming in the opposite direction is so rosy cheeked fierce. On completion Mrs M asks if her face is a red as mine. Wind blasted.

The last walk photo..... I'm going for a walk and I may be some time

Even Geocaches needed to be ignored. Not that I could feel my fingers to open tupperware boxes.

But every step down is a step out of the wind. And prizes await once we toboggan back to town, hoping to Christ we don't meet anyone coming in the opposite direction.

The Black Bull, Coniston

I've got many favourite pubs, but the Black Bull has to be in my top 10. Bluebird Bitter is available in bottle conditioned format for export, but it doesn't taste the same as on cask, in its place of birth. Bluebird XB, its slightly stronger brother, is rarely seen elsewhere.

This, and a roaring fire, a fitting reward to a fine day.

The Line Up in the Black Bull. If you are on the bus, go for Old Man

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Dow Crag Height - 2552 Feet

Geocaches - Too Windy to Look

Walk Inspiration - Pocket Mountains - 40 Walk in the Southern Lake District