Thursday 9 May 2019

09/05/19 - Double Pub Walk - Seahouses to Beadnell

Distance - 7 Miles
Pubs - Ye Olde Ship, Seahouses and Craster Arms, Beadnell
Geocaches - 1
Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, Jan 2018, Walk 20

Is there anything better than a coastal pub walk that starts from your own front door?   Maybe one with two great pubs, equidistantly placed.

The footpath behind our holiday rental takes us inland across farmers fields, where the output appears to be long grass.   Guide Dog in Training Joy rather enjoyed gallivanting through it.    A welcoming committee greets us at Beadnell.

Agricultural Start
An agricultural start to the walk
Beadnell Welcoming Committee
The Beadnell Welcoming Comittee
Beadnell is simply stunning.   There's a huge golden bay, where the sand stretches out for miles and when you are bored with that, a rather handily located pub at the mid point of the walk.

Beadnell Bay
Through the dunes and onto Beadnell Bay
Beadnell Bay
For these views
Guide Dog in Training Joy
Which Guide Dog in Training Joy loved
The Craster Arms has a handsome exterior and is dog friendly.   Inside, it's tailored for hungry tourists.   Three real ales on and it was my first introduction to Hadrian Border Brewery and their Farne Island Bitter. 

Craster Arms, Beadnell
Crasyer Arms from earlier in the week, where I first found Farne Island Bitter
This traditional bitter has been the beer of the holiday and a real find.   I'll see if I can get some bottles for export back to the West Midlands.

Refreshment had, its a case of walking back along the coast to Seahouses.   How you do it is probably tide dependent - low tide, you can pick your way across the rocky fingers of Lady's and Nacker's Holes until you reach the sand.   High tide, there is a path along the dunes running parallel with the road.

I've plenty of photos of sandy beaches and the Farne Islands to bore you with but will just load the one onto the blog.

Farne Island (the Place)
Farne Island - The place, not the beer
Into the four pub metropolis of Seahouses.   Last year on the Inn Way to the North Yorkshire Moors, I got talking to a fella about my adventure.   We got talking about the Inn Way to Northumberland when he got all misty eyed about Ye Olde Ship at Seahouses.   Not sure if its was the beer or the crab sandwiches which he extolled the virtues of the most.

Ye Olde Ship, Seahouses
A Must Visit, said the man in North Yorkshire.

I'm not one to turn down a recommendation.

On first impressions, I was underwhelmed.   It's the only pub in Northumberland that we have found to be dog unfriendly.   In fact there are rather too many signs.   The one outside promising Bass is a good thing.   The plenty of others banning all manner of potential crimes are not. 

This is a bit of a pet hate of mine.  I mean, is it really necessary to have laminates telling you to take off your backpacks before entry?

What's this? Bass?
They Promised the Red Triangle - They Lied
Stop that and pack it in.
No Dogs.  No Rucksacks.  Toilets for Patrons

Midland Pub Tickers Waiting Patiently for Bass to be on
Pub Ticker waiting for the Bass to come on
A chat with the exceptionally friendly bar staff - one of whom had 35 years of service - revealed the reason.   The gorgeous bar is too small for dogs and you wouldn't get in carrying a large rucksack.  I take it back..... the signs were necessary for fear of dislodging nick nacks.

Ye Olde Ship, Seahouses
Gorgeous Bar and the Rucksack Rule makes sense
We were directed to a little dog friendly summerhouse in the beer garden - offering shelter and views to Farne Island.   It makes sense to look at what you are drinking.

Ye Olde Ship, Seahouses
Farne Island - The Beer - At the Wheel in the Summer House
And the drinking was exceptional.   Well worthy of its place in the Good Beer Guide 2019.

Walk over, we head back through town for supplies.   The independent deli has what I need to remember the week by.

For Export
For Export Only


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