10/07/17 - CAMRA Edinburgh Pub Walks - Walk 4 - The Castle

Another visit to the most beautiful of European Capitals, using the CAMRA Book of Pub Walks to explore it's nooks and crannies.

After using the guide to get reacquainted with the new town in Walk 6, I'll use the same approach to investigate the area around the castle.

All uphill from Princes Street, but a nice break is lined up at the foot of Cockburn Street.

The Malt Shovell, Cockburn Street, Belhaven IPA

Foot of Cockburn Street

If you had to describe a chainy, Greene King pub, this would be it.  Big menus, corporate branding and a tariff to make anyone draw in air over their teeth.... even the book author when he saw my tweet, capturing the beer selection chalk board.

Everything is north of £4.  The Green King Amplified coming in at a whopping £4.70.  Still, the pump dispenser is in the shape of a microphone, so you get some value.

Eye Watering

My IPA was functional - much like the pub.   I wouldn't end the walk here, unless you want to dine at the lovely Mexican next door.

To work off my Chicken Mole, I followed the book route up News Steps.   Sherpa's and oxygen recommended.

The Castle Arms, Johnson Terrace, Stewarts Edinburgh Gold

I've been travelling to Edinburgh regularly for work and pleasure for many years.  It remains the only city where I've been asked to leave a premises with my teenage children when we have looked to get a meal.

So it was a touch surprising to find this place full of American families eating Tex Mex at 9pm.   They must apply for different licences, the closer you get to the touristy bits.

I am unsure I have been to the Castle Arms before.   I certainly should have.   It's a fair summary of the geography of the city.  You can enter through a little door at one level and go looking for the loos, going down, down deeper on down, until you have lost all the height you have gained from climbing News Steps.

The Castle Arms

The view from the Terrace over West Bow makes it all worthwhile.

Smoker's Paradise

If you can find an exit that doesn't involve a final abseil, one of Edinburgh's finest, the Bow Bar, is down below.

Worth the visit and one to remember, should I find myself looking for food with little people.

The Ensign Ewert, Lawnmarket, Stewart's Edinbugh Gold

Going off piste now.  This, surprisingly, is not in the Guide.  Not in this walk or any other in the book. It's got the credentials - established 1680, and a lovely story about the Hero of the Battle of Waterloo.

I've been before and liked the way that the landlord would decide not enough tourists were drinking and close up at a time to suit himself.  You don't tend to get that elsewhere too much.

Enticed by the live fiddle music coming from within and to ensure that the interior had not changed like the exterior, I ventured in.

Lick of Paint

Pleased to report the full length painting of Waterloo is all present and correct.

And I can probably shed some light why it didn't make the CAMRA guide.   Same pint as over the road and this was a ghastly colour.  More gloop than gold.

I should have complained but how can you when fiddles are blasting and Canadians are working their way through a Whisky menu.

The Jolly Judge, James Court, Applecross Red Rock

There is a sign on the Royal Mile for this cracking boozer, hidden down one of the little court yards but really, you need someone to show you where it is.  Once you know, you'll keep coming back.

I was introduced to it on a previous visit by joining in with a guided "Literary Pub Walk".  A great idea, should you ever find yourself in a strange city and needing entertainment.  We did the same in New York.  There wasn't such an option in Wolverhampton.

Once you know its there!

A great locALE pint here, where they allowed a tester to make sure it met with the Mappiman seal of approval.  Cheapest of the night at £3.25.   Are you watching Malt Shovel?

Always a good atmosphere in here and tonight no exception.   Watching a load of Americans try and win a pub quiz about the Lions tour was quite interesting.   Even with Smartphones, the closest score to winning the £200 clean sweep prize money was a 4 out of 6.

Prize money is rolling over to next Monday.   Get yourself down there, quizzers.

The Halfway House, Fleshmarket Close, Stewarts 80'

Tonight's new visit.  I thought I had done Edinburgh too.

Fleshmarket Close needs no introduction to Ian Rankin fans.  I've taken photos of signage before but head down and just before you reach Waverley Station, is a delightfully old school little boozer.

Scaffolding ruining the ambiance

A tiny little pub - but as there were only two other punters in, this did not present a problem.   Cracking pint of wee heavy too.

The list of "must visit" Edinburgh pubs grows by one.

The Guide comes up trumps again.  Cheers Bob.