27/12/16 - The Wye Valley from Chepstow

Distance - 8.8 Miles
Geocaches - 7
Pub - The Chepstow Castle, Bath Ales Gem
Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, March 2005, Walk 15

2016's annual Xmas visit to the Wye Valley starts in Wales, at Chepstow, but the majority of the walk is in Gloucestershire. We have high hopes for the town and what it can offer for post walking refreshment. Fortunately we leave early enough to avoid the traffic and crowds gathering for the Welsh Grand National.

The sound from the racecourse tannoy provides a rather surreal background... alternating between hymns, anthems and breathless commentary from the racing.

Chepstow castle provides a most dramatic starting point for any walk and provides flavour of the history that will follow.

Parking at the Castle Dell Car Park

Soon Into England as we cross the Chepstow Bridge for this view

We quickly pick up Offa's Dyke path, taking us uphill and past some impressive stately homes with commanding views and our 2nd historical architectural item of interest, marked as the Look Out Tower on the OS Map.  Someone has granted permission to build some less suitable bungalows in the grounds.

Chepstow Look Out Tower

We keep the Wye to our left but rather worryingly lose all the height gained, as we follow paths that are best described as "adventurous".  The highlight (or lowlight, dependent on how you like scrambling) is getting across a bolder field that leave you perilously close to finding out just how deep the mud on a tidal river bank can be.  On my return home, I check the walking instructions, thinking I have made a mistake in route planning, but no - the warning was there in black and white "sure footedness and care are required".

It's well worth crossing, as we are delivered to a horseshoe bend in the river, which used to host the village of Lancaut.  All that remains is an abandoned church, nestled under the high cliffs.  The oldest legible gravestone is 1739.  A beautiful, serene spot.

Lancaut - Under the Cliffs

A Church that pre-dates the Normans

Having dropped back down to the valley floor, we are of course obliged to re-conquer the heights.  A stiff climb, a small amount of road walking and we are back on a fine stretch of Offa's Dyke Path. Occasional glimpses of the Wye are offered through the trees but there are no decent photo opportunities until we start to head back from Tidenham Chase.  The Severn Estuary comes into view, along with the suspension bridge that will take us home.  You don't need to pay to get back into England.

Views over the Severn Estaury

The route back takes us along the Gloucestershire Way, following a disused railway line, delivering us to cache locations and with welcome lanes to take a break from the mud.

A less muddy section of the Gloucestershire Way

Three hours after setting off, we are back into Chepstow.  In addition to walking, my other passion is knocking off the Good Beer Guide Pubs of the UK.  There are two detailed in Chepstow (and a Social Club, with the added faff of getting in as a non-member).

One is a Wetherspoons.  A long debate on route about how pubs get into the GBG does not change Mrs Mappiman's stance that she will not be seen dead in one.  Surely a Good Pub has to do do Good Food is her misguided, although eventually discussion winning argument.  The Bell Hanger is walked on by.

Locals Interested in What is Being Photo'd.

We head up through the town centre dripping in history but not so many pubs that offer an outwardly decent appearance to Mrs Mappiman and her quest for good food.  The two meals for a tenner offer at the Kings Head, was not going to do it, so we check out the other GBG Entry, the Queens Head.  A debate about whether a micro pub does food was unrequired, due to Xmas opening hours.

GBG #2 - The Queens Head

Its 12:30pm on the 27th December

I have a internal question to answer as to whether I can tick them in my book, having not stopped in for refreshment.  I've decided I will.  Like Walking 1000 Miles in a year, you make you own rules.

So, its back down town to Tripadvisor's Number 1 food pub, the Chepstow Castle.  Whereas I use a book, Mrs Mappiman uses an App..... and today could prove which is best.

The Chepstow Castle

At first, we are so cold, Mrs Mappiman thinks we are in the wrong place.  Her App says that it has a roaring open fire, medieval tapestries and suits of armour.  I am sent to investigate and come back with a positive that all three are present and correct but the fire is merely ashes.

Three real ales are on - and in homage to my university going son, I go for a Bath Ales Gem.   A decent enough Amber Ale.

And the food?  I'm still debating whether putting a fried egg on a chicken sandwich represents a crime against nature.

Bath Ales Gem