23/02/26 - The Ship Aground, Pembrey

No Sea at Pembrey

Another dog-sit - Wales best Bed and Breakfast for a cockapoo - in the hamlet of Llanllawddog. An indication of the problems I am going to have getting the blog proofread this week. 

To escape the rain, we pick one of the several coastal walks that I have programmed. We are hoping that Penybedd Woods may provide some shelter.

Meet Willow - the latest Mappiman Victim of bad weather walks

The walk is forgettable. We follow St Illtyd's Way through the forest rides, cross the railway line and have a convoluted climb in the woods around a farm called Coed. The high ground should have provided sea views, but there's nothing doing. Mizzle.

Only Pembrey can save the day. A cafe - dog friendly and warm bara brith with butter. Two pubs in front of a sinister-looking church. The Red Lion long closed. The Pembrey Country Inn clad in scaffolding.

Pubs - 50% of them open.

The Good Beer Guide 2026 insists that we continue 3/4 of a mile towards Burry Port. The Ship Aground recommended and proudly proclaiming it is open 7 days a week. This consistency deserves support.

We find a solid boozer - thick, unplastered walls, a separate dining room and a surprisingly small bar. A collection of friendly locals and to justify the chef's wages, two couples ordering food.

Ship Aground

Just the two beers on - I choose a Gower Gold, which probably needs to be renamed Gower Cold. Freezing. Stuffed into a Worthington glass hardly showing a dedication to the landlord's art. But the local CAMRA must have found something to recommend.

Ignore the lacings and see the icings

Sand Dunes on the map surely mean the sea is not far? Pembrey Downs are protected by a creek system.

We saw nothing.

I cannot see the sea

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, November 2024

19/02/26 - The Eagle, Cookley

Spin Eagle

The Eagle at Cookley is filed under "Locals" in the Worcestershire Historic Pubs book. Centre of the village and providing sustenance for the workers at the local metal-working factory. We then have some details of its names since inception in 1834. The Spin Eagle, the Eagle and Spur and now simply the Eagle.

First - a walk, which meets the requirement well. No mud. A jaunt down the Worcester/Staffordshire Canal - including the tunnel that cuts directly under the village houses. (For future reference, it is possible to get to the village - Google maps was unclear on planning). Solid paths through agricultural land connected to Lea Castle and back to explore the village.

Joining the canal near Caunsall

Which came first? The tunnel or the houses?

Surprisingly mud free

Entrance to Lea Castle

Inside St Peters

It looks like Cookley supported three pubs - The Red Lion is now a convenience store. The Bull and the Eagle sit side by side in the village centre, opposite the chipper.

Impressive in size, if not in colour

The Eagle is multiple houses knocked together, which provides a higgledy-piggledy internal experience, bars lead to corridors, which lead to a lounge containing the king of pub furniture.. The Chesterfield. The cask also needs to be hunted - the main bar looking disappointingly keg only. Two hand pulls on another bar - Wye Valley Pyoneer and HPA.

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 6

Walk Inspiration

16/02/26 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Bedford

London Prices

Why Bedford, you are probably right to ask? We can blame the Great British Rail Sale. A four-stage, four-hour journey for the grand total of £3.60. Every connection on time. Seat and charging points available.

Coming Home

A first visit - so a chance to investigate the town and its famous residents. Adventure Lab Caches taking me to the architecture and its famous sons. John Bunyan, writer of the Pilgrim's Progress. John Howard, a High Sheriff and prison reformer. And the greatest Guv of them all.

Let's find the places where he learned his trade. I'll blog the Good Beer Guide Pubs, but a shout out to a first. The Hidden Barrel. My first Lithuanian-themed micropub.

Volfas Engelman Imperial Porteris all round

The Castle

As usual, getting the timings correct is key. There are four GBG pubs in town and each has unique opening hours.... 'Spoons leads the way on customer service - others at 2pm, 3pm and 5pm. The Castle is a 3pm opener but I don't think the punters have got the memo.

Charles Wells Hotel/Pub

The place is empty on arrival. This includes bar staff. A walk around the central bar finds no one. If I hadn't set the hand dryers off to announce my arrival, I may well have walked back out again.

80's soft rock and a £5.80 Ghost Ship (a beer totally on theme with the experience). In the 30 minutes I was there, one other punter came in - looked around, found no service and promptly took his Golden Retriever elsewhere.

The Lost Punter

The Devonshire Arms

Opens at 5pm but a lengthy walk to this out of town, terraced locals' pub. The Three Cups can also be used as a staging post.

More Charlie Wells

Nice low lighting, a log fire flickering away at a far end and a handful of punters who have timed it for "bolt scraping". A fair selection of cask - with London Pride again north of a fiver. I think I am either going to have to turn advertising on the blog or start a Patreon. This is becoming unaffordable.

£2 down and I've only walked from the bar to the fire

The Wellington Arms

Others have told me that this is the best pub in town. And the others are right. Head and shoulders above the rest.

Night falls on Bedford

A central island bar, with seating all round. Plenty of pubby chat and pubby paraphernalia. Bass on cask, but my eyes were drawn to the Belgian/German bottle fridge. Is a 750ml St Bernardus ABT 12 a good idea for a pub crawl? No, obviously. Instead, I try and recreate Christmas in the cruellest month.

Let's get the party started

If my evening meal hadn't been calling, I would have stayed the night.

No need for certificates.... everyone knows it's Bedford's finest

The Pilgrim's Progress

Curried up in the rather too posh Three Rooms (wine glasses! roses! potato and chickpeas in a biryani!) the 'spoons is on the way back to Lenny's Purple Palace.

£1.85 pints and plenty of people.

The retiree adventurer's friend.

Thanks Timbo!

An alternative to the Premier Inn

14/02/26 - British Camp

On the Trail of Sir Edward Elgar..... Again

It was always the plan to follow up my first Elgar inspired walk. British Camp - a ramparted hill fort - provided the inspiration for the cantata, Caractacus. I've listened to it.... once.... it goes on a bit.

British Camp has long been linked by local folklore to the last stand of the British chieftain Caractacus against the Romans, even though historians now doubt the battle took place there; the dramatic Iron Age ramparts and sweeping views made it easy for Victorian imagination to place a heroic resistance on its summit. That legend inspired Edward Elgar, who grew up walking the Malvern Hills and in 1898 composed the cantata Caractacus, portraying the gathering of the tribes, their defeat by Rome, and Caractacus’s noble dignity in captivity, turning the hills into a musical symbol of ancient Britain, loss, and quiet heroism.

Public transport options to British Camp are limited to summertime at the weekend. Driving would normally pass St Wulstan's Church - Elgar's final resting place. However, long-term road closures send you around the western side of the Malverns, on pot-holed roads, where the expected sunshine had led to post-walk gridlock. I planned to stop for a photo of a place, previously visited. Circumstance dictates that I lift an image from the Internet.

I chose the route from Juile Royle's Worcester News book. Malvern has myriad footpaths - both official and unofficial, map-marked and waiting to be found. The hand-drawn map is of limited value and mistakes were made. Lost in Gullet Wood. Missing out Hollybush through misreading the instructions.

Pick the bones out of that!

Our plan was to use the 24-hour escape from the relentlessly brutal rain and avoid muddy paths and flooded fields. The first half of the walk was a success - British Camp, Millennium Hill and Hangman's hill leaving our boots unscathed.

Ramparts clearly identifiable 

Happy Days on British Camp

The return was on the lower common land - and was of course a filthy mud pit.  It could almost put you off walking for life. Escaping the mud leads to a stiff climb along the side of British Camp Reservoir.

Options to try and improve morale? The café? The bar at Malvern Hills Hotel? We are nothing if not creatures of habit.

A short but tricky drive to the Nag's Head. The finest pub in the land.

Sheep on Berrow Downs

A stiff climb up the side of British Camp Reservoir

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Julie Royle's Worcestershire Walks, Walk 42