Saturday 21 September 2019

21/09/19- London Countryway - Stage 19 - Broxbourne to Theydon Bois

Distance - 12 Miles
Start - Broxbourne
Finish - Theydon Bois
Geocaches - 5
Pubs - The Crown - Waltham Abbey, Kings Oak - Epping Forest, The Bull - Theydon Bois
Previous Stages - Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7Stage 8Stage 9Stage 10Stage 11Stage 12Stage 13Stage 14Stage 15Stage 16Stage 17, Stage 18


The London Countryway is moving towards its end.   With three legs to go, I enter Essex, the final county.

There's no better description for today's leg than "A walk of two halves".

The first half is a four mile stretch southbound on the Lea Valley County Park.  I've walked the River Lea from Source to Mouth, so know exactly what to expect.  If you haven't, imagine a relentless canal, with an arrow straight path dissecting water filled gravel pits to the opposite side.   Throw in lunatic cyclists with their painfully annoying bells and you'll be rather pleased to reach Waltham Abbey.

Lea Valley Country Park
Lea Valley Country Park in a Picture
Waltham Abbey is a place of interest - lots of history and interesting buildings with a chance of a refreshment stop.  Arriving before the sun has passed the yard arm, I choose the first pub available, the Crown.   Would have been a risk to ignore an 11am opener.   No doubt the McMullens Country Bitter was the first pull of the day and the only thing in its favour was it was not the worst pint of the day.   After navigating the town, I learn that although from the same Brewery, the Welsh Harp looked a more interesting building - separating the church from the market square.   It dripped ancient history.  One for another day.

Into Essex
Marking the entry into the final county
The Crown
A Rare 11am Opener
Country Bitter at the Crown, Waltham Abbey
What you get for being first in
Waltham Abbey Church
Impressive Church in the Abbey Grounds

The M25 has been added since Keith Chesterton wrote the guide.  It's kind of fun reading him use terms like "if it will be built".   I wonder if the same will happen with HS2 in the future?

Once the motorway is bridged, its a short section of countryside, before reaching Epping Forest.

Countryside leading to Epping Forest
Out the other side of Waltham Abbey
The forest is picked up at the Visitor Centre, where there is fine looking, rambling monster of a pub.  You can see by the skies in the pictures that it's summer's final hurrah and with plenty of time available, it would be rude not to stop.

The Royal Oak, Epping Forest Conservation Area
Kings Oak
Not wanting to risk a Greene King IPA, I think I've played it safe by going reassuringly expensive.  Yet somehow, they cannot even keep Stella Artois well.   Headless, soapy, with a scummy top.   At least they kindly filled my water bottle for the last few miles.

The second half of this walk proves a delight, the mighty trees offering plenty of shade and broad rides taking me all the way to Theydon Bois.   Only one photo required, so you can get the drift.

Into Epping Forest
Perfect Place to walk in an Indian Summer
Theydon Bois, the penultimate stop on the Eastbound Central Line, offers a couple of choices for refreshment.   The Bull, a Charles Wells Pub, proved the correct choice and the one closest to the Station.   Low ceilings inside, lovely garden outside and a good pint of Youngs Bitter saved the beer day out.

The Bull at Theydon Bois
Charming Theydon Bois
I'm back on the trail in October for another unvisited town.   Brentwood.  Who knows what I'll find.

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