Tuesday 4 July 2017

04/07/17 - 5 CAMRA Good Beer Guide Ticks in St Albans

A beautiful walk along the River Ver from a faceless business hotel in Redbourn delivers me to CAMRA's headquarters in St Albans.

A city I know and love well.

It's been three and half years since my last visit, when I previously blogged only about walks.   A visit tonight provides the chance to record 5 of the 8 Good Beer Guide ticks available.

The Six Bells, St Micheal's Street, Tring Brewery Ridgeway Bitter

If you are admiring their handsome patio annexed to the car park, you can thank Rory McGrath.  In 2011, in a move that would have stunned Alan Partridge, he managed to convince Channel 5 to commission a TV series of him going around some fine British Pubs.  He would sit on the sidelines, shouting encouragement and supping beer, whilst archaeologists attempt to recreate civilisations form a dug up sandal.

I can only assume this was more palatable to the TV execs than Inner City Sumo.

The programme made Rory very happy.  Just look at his face on the Channel 5 website.

Tonight, it's the first calling point after a five mile walk and I was similarly happy.   A perfect example of a British Boozer, right down to its low ceilings and hard seating.

It's not often I will forsake a Timothy Taylor Landlord, but I chose to go locALE and try a brew named after a great long distance path.

A fine start to proceedings.

Six Bells, St Albans
Six Bells and a Cask Marque App Check In
Six Bells, St Albans
Classic Pub Interior
Six Bells, St Albans
Patio, courtesy of Channel 5

The walk to Pub 2 couldn't have been nicer - a lovely amble through Verulamium Park.

Into the Park
As good as a Pub Crawl Gets
Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, Abbey Mill Lane, Woodforde Wherry

Famous for being the oldest pub in England.  Unless you are from Nottingham.  Or Stow on the Wold.

It's definitely a destination pub - a must visit to tick off.

Ye Fighting Cocks, St Albans
You are correct.  I think I will have my tea here.
Ye Fighting Cocks, St Albans
Classic view.  God Damn the Peugeot for mucking it up

Its a delight to report that its both exactly the same and better.   The decor is untouched, with the sunken fighting pit still hosting the Chesterfields.   The beer choice and importantly, quality, has improved.

If only the staff were trained to know what was on.

They have different ales on both of the bars and asking is pointless.  Ordering requires a look at the 4 on one side - a dash round - and a panicked choice from the 4 available at the other side.

After all, you don't want to make a bad choice.  And my Woodforde Wherry was not a bad choice.

Ye Fighting Cocks, St Albans
The former Cock Pit
Another stunning amble to pub 3, passing the Cathedral, the gate house and St Albans School. Just as the evening bells were rang.

St Albans Cathedral
St Albans Cathedral
The Lower Red Lion, Fishpool Street, Paradigm Win Win

It may not be as old as the Cocks, coming in at only C17th, but people of St Albans, how spoiled you are.

If I lived here, I would be torn on which one to make my local.

I always make a mistake on entering through the porch of this pub.  Should I turn left or right?  I seem to remember the bar being on the right, so that's the route I took.

Lower Red Lion, St Albans
Lower Red Lion
And true to form, the Hertfordshire Whisky tasting society are in the other bar, asking for a knife to knock the seals of the three Malts and a Bourbon they have brought in to "sample".

The central bar saved me from myself.

To demonstrate the gentility of the City, just as I was leaving a punter popped in to return a pint glass he had taken home with him the night before.

How very civilised.

The Farriers Arms, Lower Dagnell Street, Betty Stogs

A perfectly functional, yet very narrow back street boozer that was formerly a grocers and a butchers.

You can squeeze in to sit at the bar but your backside is never far from the street.

Farriers Arms, St Albans
Tiny Back Street Boozer
Its labelled as a McMullen house - a stalwart in Hertfordshire - however, I found more beers from Cornwall, including the lesser spotted Betty Stogs.

Fond memories of holidays at the Lizard.  I would have told the two old boys next to me all about them, but they were engrossed in a F1 race from the 80s on the corner TV.

A quick google, and I was able to shout the result on my departure.

The Boot, Market Square, XT 1

The fifth and final one of my meandering night and always a favourite.

The Boot St Albans
The Boot
I love the Boot.  I love the limbo to get in.  I love the fact that you don't know what sort of crowd is going to be in.  Sometimes students, sometimes old boys, sometimes solo beer bloggers worrying everyone by taking surreptitious photos.  How can you not love a place where you can read about the Battle of St Albans in the War of the Roses, exactly where it happened.

With more good news, I can also report further improvements to SA.  The beer here was previously never that great but the pub's gone through a bit of a spruce up, including a makeover of the wares on sale.

The XT 1, a beautiful blonde ale, was the pint of the night.

In a night of very good pints.

People of St Albans - you are massively lucky.   I hope to be back for the remaining three ticks.

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