20/08/26 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 17

Peat Bogs in the Rain

I left the Greater Manchester Ringway in the Holiday Inn Express. It's been a long time since I've stayed in a corporate hotel. Vaguely interesting to have a late night pint in a soulless lounge, eavesdropping on other tables of people forced into spending time with each other. There's always one talking loudly, and that one is talking about work. You can watch the eyes of their colleagues glaze over in real time.

If the question is "Where to go in a drought for a chance of rainfall?" the answer has to be Manchester.

I'm almost too scared to throw those curtains wide, with persistent thunder heard on the other side.

But there is hope

Incredibly, after an attempt to break the record of most sausages eaten at a free buffet breakfast, the rain stops. And it very nearly stays stopped.

This meteorological prelude is necessary. This stage of the walk has absolutely nothing to talk about.

The Leeds Liverpool Canal is left behind, replaced by flat agricultural land on the Glazebrook Trail Long Distance Path. 

To add some variety, the walk designers ask us to leave the trail for a completely unnecessary circuit of what is unidentified on my OS Map. It transpires that  the series of arrow-straight canals are the Wigan and Salford Mosslands. Rewilding of peat bogs, that may provide interest to Twitchers and whatever the collective noun of lizard watchers is.

Could have stayed to the West on the Glazebrook trail...

but I'd have missed three miles of this

Just in case I was to get excited as to what Irlam might offer a lonely traveller, the storms come back.

Soaked to my pants, I decide to instantly get the train home, via Warrington, looking for somewhere to change.

Three stages to go - I'm no quitter.

Walk Information

Start - Leigh

Finish - Irlam

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16

Distance -  10.5 Miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration

19/06/26 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 16

The Western Wind-down 

A whole calendar year since I was on the Greater Manchester Ringway. We can blame relatives - my daughter and son-in-law (pending) have moved house. It's not that they haven't informed me of their new address. They still haven't sorted out all the decorating and can't put up guests. If I had more talent, I would take a rest from exploring and pick up some paint brushes. Weaponised incompetence is my middle name.

So, the bullet is bitten and a Holiday Inn Express is booked at the halfway point, to enable me to knock off two stages.

This is the final five sections. The website says that we are now on the Western Wind-down, with flat easy walking along canals and agricultural land. 

Back to Wigan, the pier is under scaffold, so few photos on the Leeds to Liverpool Canal, dissecting great bodies of water known locally as "flashes".

Today's walking - The Leeds Liverpool Canal

Scotsman's Flash

Sadly, from a blogging perspective, that's it. The choice about whether to stop for refreshment is made instantly. The only pub passed - The Dover Lock Inn - not only closed, but firebombed.

It's just the canal until the next flash, Pennington and a comfy bed for the night.

Leigh does have pubs. Having visited four of them, I am trying to determine if they are worthy of blogging. Nothing of real architectural or beer interest but it's sometimes the people that make pubs.

And the people of Leigh are quite odd.

Walk Information

Start - Wigan

Finish - Leigh

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15

Distance -  10 Miles

Geocaches - 11

Walk Inspiration 

08/08/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 15

All Downhill from Here

Winter Hill was the final big hill on the Greater Manchester Ringway. It's going to be interesting to see what I find with the last five stages. 

After 13 miles yesterday, it's nice to have a gentler walk today - although purists will notice a rather big navigational error that led to a couple of miles being knocked off today's route. To be fair, it is easy to just plod on along canals and the bit I missed, Haigh Hall, I have previously walked.

Little to report in the early stages, passing through Blackrod village, with all the views behind to Winter Hall.

Yesterday's GM Ringway

If there was a theme for today - it would be transportation links. The former Lancashire Union Joint Railway leading to the longest canal in Northern England.

Bridges over track beds

Bridges over canals.

The Worthington Lakes break up the straight line walking - a series of reservoirs on the River Douglas providing water to the townspeople of Wigan.

It's the River Douglas that provides the route back to civilisation.

Wigan - with 8 Good Beer Guide ticks and the complexity of two adjacent train stations to provide post beer confusion on how best to get back to Salford.

That many pubs are always worthy of a separate blog.

Walk Information

Start - Blackrod

Finish - Wigan

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14

Distance -  9 Miles

Geocaches - 25

Walk Inspiration

07/08/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 14

On Winter Hill

I once walked Hergest Ridge, so this is not the first hill walk to have a song named after it.

To get there, it's a gentle climb, following Eagley Brook, past impressive mills and through Barrow Bridge. Unusually, it rains. It never rains in Manchester. In 2025, I'm not even being ironic.

The route details are told through an Adventure Lab Cache, which sadly eludes me. The gates on the old road are firmly closed, as work is underway on replacing the supporting cables. This means I cannot bring you photos of the Scotsman’s Stump, marking the 1838 murder of George Henderson, or of the site where a Bristol Britannia crashed in 1958, killing 35 people. Other smaller aircraft accidents have happened here too, and it was also the scene of the 1896 Winter Hill mass trespass, when over 10,000 people protested against land enclosure. At 456 metres, the hill is now most recognisable for its large TV and radio mast.

Trespass Memorial

The road to nowhere

Pigeon Tower

Once across the M61, it's a short distance to Blackrod Railway station. An uninspiring "bar and grill" pub didn't look worth the wait between hourly trains.

This left time at Deansgate to make sure the Britons Protection was as I remember it. Looking good, but I don't think they have anywhere near the same number of whiskies.

Perfect Landlord, water chaser, no beer mats.

Walk Information

Start - Bromley Cross

Finish - Blackrod

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13

Distance -  13 Miles

Geocaches - 15

Walk Inspiration

20/05/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 13

The River Irlam to the Peel Monument and a Roman Road

A lovely stretch of the Greater Manchester Ringway but why so few photos? 

Most of the 12 miles are walking along the River Irlam or climbing - some would say unnecessarily - to the Peel Tower, Ramsbottom. I knew I was going up there, but after such a lengthy climb, I am surprised the high ground was not kept for longer.

Pretty Irlam - fine walking, monotonous photos

Peel Tower - in praise of an C19th Rozzer and Prime Minister - A son of Bury

Views across to the Manchester Skyline

From the tower, it's a down and up to the remarkable Affetside. Now a tiny hamlet of a handful of cottages but strategically placed on an arrow straight Roman Road, Wailing Street. A medieval cross and a pub, which can't really expect us to believe that it dates from 1442. They proudly write the date on exterior wall but are far more coy about it being in the Good Beer Guide.

Having visited a JW Lees and a Holts in Bury yesterday, I get to complete the set. Hydes have the best beer of the three. The Quattro a very decent special bitter.

Proudly Emblazoned "Since 1442"

And very specific instructions on how to enjoy yourself

Jumbles Reservoir leads to the walk's terminus - Bromley Cross. The 3 p.m. train meant I can fight for a seat against the school kid hordes.

Walk Information

Start - Bury

Finish - Bromley Cross

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12

Distance - 11.5 Miles

Geocaches - 5

Walk Inspiration

19/05/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 12

I'll never know Knowl Moor

I downloaded all the GPX files when the Greater Manchester Ringway was first devised. On checking the excellent on-line resource, I could see that I had managed to walk 3 miles less than the advertised 13 miles.

It would appear that Naden Brook has been bypassed in favour of the wind turbines of Knowl Moor. Things never stay the same, but do they improve? Not necessarily. This shaded track through the woods is perfect for the rare Manchester sunshine. 

Brookside

I discovered the owl telescope and have to zoom in on my mobile to see what the owls are looking for.

Owl Telescope

Funny Mancs!

The tiny hamlet of Birtle features two "Big Blue Cups of Joy on the OS Map". I had completed my research and the Church Inn was a COVID Victim. Although if the retired owners got their advertised £1m, then they will be set for life. I can't imagine they did.... how long would it take a business to recoup a million?

This leaves the Pack Horse. Right on my path and for a Monday Lunch time, packed solid with smartly dressed people over-spilling into the beer garden. Fortunately, I was able to get to the bar with no fuss and despite my very obvious ramblers gear was asked "are you with the wake?"

My big mouth costing me a free pint. Possibly.

A acquaintance with one of the three big Manchester brewers - JW Lees.

Pack Horse from the front

Handsome looking bitter, odd dimpled glass, utterly devoid of taste

Under the M66, an interesting lesson in what "Strangles" is, after a talk with a farmer when the signage made no sense to me and then following the River Irlam through Burrs Country Park to the fleshpots of Bury.

All the time with tomorrow's prize in sight.

Peel Monument in Ramsbottom - I'm bound to be climbing on Stage 13

Walk Information

Start - Norden

Finish - Bury

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11

Distance - 10 Miles

Geocaches - 6

Walk Inspiration

23/08/24 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 11

GM Ringway Brewery Adoption

All my long distance paths eventually adopt a brewery. I kept finding Rebellion on the Chiltern Chain Walk. Purity became the de-facto pint on the Millennium Way. 

For the Greater Manchester Ringway, it will have to be Brid's Cross.

A few social media interactions have recommended the best pubs in Rochdale. A comment on the last leg mentioned that I missed out at the Red Lion, where there is a permanent line. Today, through a little bit of serendipity, I stalk their entire vehicle fleet and gatecrash their 1st Birthday Party.

Its as if Storm Lillian wanted me to make their acquaintance. A change of travel plans, as trees on lines broke the rail network. 

This wasn't going to stop me from getting to Littleborough, where I had completed research to show the canal route out to the hills was blocked. Going through town allowed a lunch purchase at the bakery.

Today's route is similar to last couple - Geocache laden moorland, the Pennine Way and a couple of reservoirs. Watergrove at the start and Greenbooth at the end.

Wonderful, but samey walking. The Manchester skyline in view for long periods.

Long Sections of the Pennine Way

Manchester in the distance

Storm Lillian blows herself out

A navigational mistake at Healey Dell, where I should have been down on the valley floor, rather than on precipitous cliff paths above. But this led to the first indication that I was deep in Brid county. Sat on a bridge rampart, enjoying my very out of region Cornish Pasty, a 4x4 passes by. The spare wheel cover having the brewery logo to remind me what beer to look out for at walk conclusion. Who says that advertising doesn't pay?

The view I should have had, instead of car spotting

Not content with spotting one vehicle, I make to Broadly Fold and find another. If this is where Sean and Ruth live, you've got a geocache at each end of the road. At the Eastern end, look under a rock between the stumpy lamppost and footpath marker.

I appreciate I am getting close to stalking territory now

A drop down past Greenbooth Reservoir and into Norden, thankful for google maps helping me understand the Bee Bus Network.

I am looking for Baum - a Good Beer Guide 2024 recommendation and right up my Strasse. A shop conversion, that they have made to feel very pubby.

Baum - Toad Lane Conservation Area

Up to the bar, and I thought this was the regular cask line up. Transpires I had picked the breweries 1st anniversary birthday party tap takeover.

Love the Art

30 minutes to learn more about the brewery. Each of the beers has a folk story attached. I'm a bit of a folklore fan myself, often linking walks with folk tale locations. My chosen West Coast IPA, Under the Eildon Tree, telling the tale of Thomas the Rhymer.

It is a fine beer, with beautiful and distinctive artwork.

View from the comfy seats at the Baum

Want to know more about Brid's Cross Brewery?..... in another twist of fate, they are the subject of latest episode (94) on the Beer Prime Podcast. Discount code taken advantage of for export to Worcestershire.

Stage 12 will land me in Bury and I am open for recommendations :-)

Walk Information

Start - Littleborough

Finish - Norden

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10

Distance - 12 Miles

Geocaches - 14

Walk Inspiration

24/07/24 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 10

Reservoir Gods and Windy Hills

As the crow flies, I make no more than 2 miles of progress today. But who wants to be a crow? The GM Ringway turns half an hours walking into a full day out of wilderness.

The day will be remembered for reservoirs - Ogden, Kitcliffe, Piethorne and Norman Hill.

First body of water

First decision of the day is whether to ignore the "Access to fisherman only" sign on the northern bank of the Piethorne Reservoir. It seems well walked by dog walkers and other ramblers and I can see the official web site has a "future diversion" marked that utilises the southern bank.

Either way, you will end up climbing into the wilderness of the wonderfully named Windy Hills. All pleasant today, with me simply wondering where the voices are coming from. Workmen, high in the metalwork of the transmitter. Motorway traffic below, as I look down on England's highest motorway, the M62.

Wheel's of Industry keep on turning

The walk instructions warn vertigo sufferers of the footbridge crossing across the motorway. Use your imagination and you are Indiana Jones crossing one of those dodgy rope bridges, chased by angry natives. Did I mention the lovely mushrooms I found on Windy Hill?

Crossing the valley of the M62

We're on the Pennine Way again and Blackstone egde - a rocky outcrop - provides a fine place for a rest. If only I had found a shop in Newhey to buy sandwiches. I did find a Polski Skelp, but alas, it appears they don't do picnics.

Picnic-less Lunch on Blackstone Edge

I compare walking notes with a gent coming in the opposite direction. I tell him all about the GM Ringway and he makes a note of the what Google Search to use. He tells me he has come from the White House and confirms that this is indeed a pub.

I am cruelly denied this Good Beer Guide Tick, with the route taking me left on the Roman Road. At least it is all downhill to Greater Manchester's largest body of water, Hollingsworth Lake.

There is something very special about coming into civilisation from such a remote landscape. You feel like an explorer. And you know creature comforths - such as Ice Cream vans - are there to help you celebrate.

First stop - as the water again ran out - is the Wine Press. A Gastropub, full of screaming babies would not be my usual port of call but needs must. Seems it had a more interesting past - this from pubsgalore.com;

This pub was called The Fishermans a.k.a. “The Fish” for years. It was always popular with bikers and used to have a rock DJ and live bands. Things have changed dramatically in the last couple of years and it’s now more of a wine bar and eating place, but for some reason it’s still popular with some of the bikers.

The Black Sheep, iced water chaser hit the spot.

Gastropub for Bikers

Farmland and short stretch of canal walking and we are in Littleborough. Loads of independent shops but you try finding a sandwich after 2pm.

The closest Good Beer Guide Tick doesn't open till 3pm, so a quick Birra Moretti at the caskless Falcon. Blue plaque on the wall detailing its history as a coaching house.

Trad pub. No trad beer

This allows the Red Lion time to open and I am third through the door. Two casks on and after a long discussion about the merits of Titanic Plum Porter, its a Coach House Brewing Blonde.

Wilsons - gone since 1987

A short walk back to the railway station, where I am whisked back to Victoria.

Hopefully back for Stage 11 in August!

Walk Information

Start - Newhey

Finish - Littleborough

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9

Distance - 11 Miles

Geocaches - 9

Walk Inspiration

23/07/24 - Greater Manchester RIngway - Stage 9

Pink Tram Line Down, Thank God for Flying Horses 

Bless me father for I have sinned. It's been 9 months since I have been on the Greater Manchester Ringway.

In that time, I have watched with interest as knowledge of the route increases. A number of YouTube Vloggers (my favourite is a railway employee). There have been proper way marking signs laid. Blimey, I even find a fellow Ringway traveller on this stage.

Of course, I have an excuse for getting "lost"

A deceptively gentle start on the Huddersfield Narrow canal, before a stiff climb to pretty Dobcross. Stolen from West Yorkshire in the 1974 Local Government re-organisation. Certainly wouldn't let the Yorkshire Dales down in anyway.

Don't be fooled by this easy walking at the start

Dobcross - Last Pint Saloon at the Swan

Another climb up Long Lane where I catch up and walk alongside a fellow rambler. It takes us a while to get our breath to begin a conversation, but when we do, we determine we are both on the same odyssey. Alas, like a true Brit, we didn't swap any useful details (like our names), yet it was great to have company. My companion, better prepared than me, pointing out the Castle Shaw Roman hill fort below.

I have a staggering amount of photos like this

We split up on the Pennine Way as I geocache, only for re-acquaintance with him lunching at Moor Lane. He provides me one extra piece of critical information. There is a pub coming up!

Technically, I didn't get lost. I had downloaded the GPX files when I started this about 4 years ago. My route took me on the Oldham Way to the wonderfully named New Years Bridge Reservoir. This is the first time I have encountered bad paths on any stage. Fair play to the route planners, who have acknowledged the badly overgrown section and have rerouted through Denshaw.

Home of the much needed boozer.

All water guzzled, but I did meet the beast of the Oldham Way

A rather dry traverse of Crompton Moor - superb views over Manchester - leading to a more sedate country park containing a rather impressive waterfall.

Photos didnt do the waterfall justice, so here's distant Manchester

The section end is Newhey Tram station - the Pink Line normally able to whisk me back to the Metropolis. We have a landslide, so its the longest 2 miles as the crow flies bus trip for a first visit to Rochdale.

Four Good Beer Guide Pubs available if you get the hours/days correct and I pick an absolute gem at the first attempt.

I'd be amazed if the Flying Horse is not Mappiman's 2024 Pub of the Year.

Scaffolding doesn't present it in the best light - but you get the idea

The Flying Horse, known as the "Flyer," is a historic pub and music venue in the heart of Rochdale, Greater Manchester. Dating back to the 17th century, it is one of Rochdale's oldest establishments. Located near Rochdale Town Hall, the pub offers a welcoming atmosphere with traditional decor, including exposed wooden beams.

The Flying Horse is renowned for its extensive selection of real ales, frequently earning accolades from CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) and appearing in their guides. The pub boasts an impressive range of beers, with up to 10 cask ales and 8 keg ales available at any given time. This variety includes a mix of local and regional brews that attract ale enthusiasts from near and far. Additionally, the pub is a vibrant music venue, hosting live performances from local bands, tribute acts, and open mic nights. This dedication to supporting local musicians makes the Flyer a key part of Rochdale's cultural scene, blending history, quality ales, and live music.

I couldn't tear myself away - a multiple pint stop - taking in traditional Bass, craft and very exotic German Keg. The Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier Dunkels are on me!

Enough time to work out the midweek GM Day Ranger ticket presents a couple of issues. OK, I should have known that there is a peak hours hiatus in afternoon rush hour. But I couldn't have guessed that National Rail's own website wants a change at Newton-Le-Willows to get to Patricroft. Suspicions aroused when "no fares available" were presented. Which led me to realise NLW is outside GM, presumably invalidating the whole ticket.

I did the only sensible thing....  called an Uber.

Travel Planning with Mappiman

A perfect day on the trail!  

Walk Information

Start - Greenfield

Finish - Newhey

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8

Distance - 13 Miles

Geocaches - 9

Walk Inspiration

17/11/23 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 8

Ancient paths, wild moorland and £5 pints in Oldham 

I asked AI to provide a summary of this stage of Greater Manchester's boundary path;

Stage 8 of the GM Ringway is a 12.5-mile (20.1 km) hike that starts in Broadbottom, a small village in the Metropolitan Borough of Tameside, and finishes in Greenfield, a town in the Metropolitan Borough of Oldham. The stage is challenging in parts, with some steep climbs and descents, but the rewards are well worth the effort, and the views from the top of the moors are truly unforgettable.

Not bad..... this is a proper walk - the first half on ancient paths, with names on the OS Map like Hague Road and Coach Road. Ahead, you can see what awaits.

In the far distance, the Arnfield Moors

Hollingworth is the last place to bail out for civilisation. Should you press on, you are in wild moorland country of crashed aeroplanes and vague paths. You see no one. Anything goes wrong and you are on your own. Look behind, and you get the occasional glimpse of the Manchester skyscrapers. The city looks alien. Alas, it was directly into the sun, so photos were hopeless but will stay in my memory

Looking away from the Sun on Arnfield Moor

There is a "diversion" that runs for 1/2 mile to Chew Reservoir, only to immediately double back. On plotting, I thought this is because the walk designers really wanted you to see the body of water. On arrival, there is no choice - its a high ridge path over the waterfalls, with the exit - the access road - far below. Stunning walking.

Chew Hurdles - with Chew Road feint on the RHS

Chew reservoir - seen one, seen them all

The access road is picked up, forever downwards and becoming the Oldham Way.

My destination - Greenfield. Home of two Good Beer Guide Pubs;

The Wellington is a solid enough locals pub.... a handful of pensioner diners in one room and locals hovering around the bar, outdoing each other with infectious but cheesy jokes. I should take notes, there was a cracking one about a pirate with the punchline "cause they arrrrrrrrr".

The End of Terrace Wellington

Most of the cask was from Millstone brewery. Their pump clips offer no clue as to what the style of each beer is. Asking about Tiger Rut was met with "Bitter".

Takes too much time to use Untappd at the bar

It was a Golden Ale and exceptionally cold.

Next to the station is the imaginatively named The Railway 

You can see the trains pulling up.  Usually delayed

A choice of doors take you to different rooms over a central oval bar. I work my way through the handpumps before deciding on an Ossett White Rat.

Three things happen.

1) I notice this is a serious beer pub from the the extensive beer list on a wall next to the bar.

2) I am surprised that pints of standard cask are £5. In Oldham.

3) The delayed train to Manchester I can see pulling out the station is the last for 1 hour.

I'll have to stay for a second and worry about end of month finances later. I want to know whether they have comments on their pricing policy and consider how I can ask politely without coming across as an idiot.

I decide my starting my conversion by asking if they all the beers on the board available. I am assured they are.

Boltmaker? is met with "Apart from that one".  

Landlord? is met with the same response.

Another White Rat for a fiver it is and I'll have to use Twitter to see if £5 pints are now the norm.

£4.75 worth of White Rat.  I'd had a sip for quality purposes

I make this last until 10 minutes before my advertised train comes in.

It's delayed, but enough time to join the resistance.

Seems fair

Walk Information

Start - Broadbottom

Finish - Greenfield

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7

Distance - 12.5 Miles

Geocaches - 3

Good Beer Guide Tick - #917 and #918

Walk Inspiration