09/03/26 - On the Trail of..... The Small World of Sammy Lee

Checking The Gentrification of Soho

It seems that it's impossible for me to simply watch TV without thinking - "I wonder what that location looks like now?". It takes me two hours to get through an episode of The Sweeney. And I haven't even started on Minder yet.

No surprise that the opening sequence of The Small World of Sammy Lee had me planning my annual trip to Soho. I need to make sure that Fuller's haven't ruined the Coach and Horses.

The film is pretty good.... Sammy Lee being what you would get if Bob Monkhouse worked in a strip club and lost all his money gambling.

The Small World of Sammy Lee (1963) is a British black-and-white crime drama directed by Ken Hughes and starring Anthony Newley, Julia Foster, and Robert Stephens.

The film follows Sammy Lee, a fast-talking compère at a Soho strip club who has run up a £300 gambling debt with a bookie. Given just five hours to repay the money, he rushes around Soho trying to borrow cash, call in favours, and make deals while still hosting the club’s stage shows.

This website does all the hard work of deconstructing the locations and making my days easier. Less time planning, more time walking.

Without going too mad.... the changes over 63 years....

The opening scene in Peter Street looking west

Once a striptease, now a restaurant at 50 Frith Street

At least the Indian remains at 44 Frith Street

And my favourite change - Books and Mags for Harry Bloody Potter at 157 Wardour Street

Whilst in the location - it's important for me to check on the Coach and Horses in Greek Street. Other pubs are available but none mean as much to me as this place. No need to repeat myself.

Fellow Casketeers waiting for the bolt slide

Fuller's took it over at the turn of the decade. The beer quality and range has improved (Kernal, no less) and the piano has (thankfully) been removed. Only so many times you can listen to Soho loveys belting out "Knees Up Mother Brown" ironically.

The view from the ghost of a piano

I was convinced the wooden bar backboard would be the first thing to be sacrificed in the name of progress. I'm reasonably sure I sent an email offering to buy it, if it was ever to be stripped out. Delighted that Skol, Ind Coope and Double Diamond have not been replaced with Pride, ESB and 1845. As much as I love them all.

Dread to think how long I have stared at this over the years

The final test - the gents. There was a time when you had to be very brave to even venture in. Now it is the inspiration for art. Even if the painter has caught it on a good day.  

Unsure I ever saw it so clean in the 1990s.

The hand dryer - no longer wall-mounted or working - suggests that gentrification has made only small inroads into my happy place.

30/07/25 - A Bayswater Bimble

Trivia and Pubs

A new guide book - Joolz Guides - Rather Splendid London Pub Walks. I've got to say, the book and associated videos are beautiful. So much trivia packed into a 4-mile walk. I know some of the pubs and will wait till the end of the blog to comment on whether he knows his boozers as well as he knows London. Although saying that, three of the five pubs are right at the walk's start.

But he does start the Bayswater walk at a beauty - The Victoria, Strathearn Place. Built 1837, the year Vic came to the throne, and largely unchanged since. A rare surviving example of mid-Victorian design, recognised as one of Britain’s Real Heritage Pubs. Inside, you'll find ornately gilded mirrors mounted above a crescent-shaped bar, decorative painted tiles set into wall niches, and numerous portraits of Queen Victoria. A Fuller's House and Good Beer Guide stalwart, of course, I have been here before.

The flatiron shape of the Victoria

Half an ESB resting on mahogany

Most people who visit Hyde Park will be unaware of the Pet Cemetery. Hidden away behind a lodge house at Lancaster Gate and surrounded by hedges. In 1880 the park keeper agreed to bury a dog and Victorian society thought this a fine idea. It quickly got out of hand and is now packed with over 1,000 gravestones.

A gap in the foliage

Home to dogs, cats, birds and three monkeys. George Orwell described it as "perhaps the most horrible spectacle in Britain". Maybe that's why they built a nearly impenetrable hedge.

Pubs 2 and 3 in quick succession. The Swan a bit of a tourist haunt on the Bayswater Road. Always packed with families and staff that are keen to hunt you down with an iPad to take an order on your arrival. Joolz tells a nice story in the video about the dandy highway man, Claude Du Val, who had his last drink there on the way to his execution at Tyburn.

Now purveyors of Fish and Chips 

But that is better than his next choice, the Young's house, The Mitre. It's one of London's Real Ale Heritage pubs but I found it rather soulless if not immaculately clean. Those two sentiments may be related. The Young's special was below average.

Undoubtedly externally handsome  

Back to the Trivia - the false fronted houses of Leinster Gardens hiding a railway line. The wonderful looking Porchester Baths that really deserve a review of the video. Must bring my trunks on my next London visit. 

Rather wonderfully, Joolz points out the door to an underground Austrian cellar bar that I simply have to go to. In fact, I have offered a £5 bounty to the first member of my extended family to enjoy schnitzel, Stiegl beer and an octogenarian on an accordion.

Oompah 

Music and film locations. This is the part of London with those white, colonnaded, stucco fronted four story houses that are as gorgeous, as they are similar. 

Stiff Records at 32 Alexander Street.

With the Damned outside the Front

Rachel Weisz's single mother, textile designer in About a Boy lived at 1 St Stephen's Crescent.

Textile designers are well paid in the movies

Micheal Caine's Alfie lived around the corner at 29 St Stephens Gardens. A location chosen for its run down and gritty appearance, matching the tone of the film. Ha!

And not a lot of people know that

Another pub stop - the instantly forgettable Prince Bonaparte. A pub that belied it's posh art-deco interior by smelling dreadfully of Sunday lunch cabbage on a Wednesday. At least they had Timothy Taylor Landlord on.

Prince Bonaparte

Incredibly, Bayswater was also the location for the flat in Withnail and I. The steps at 57 Chepstow Road used for the publicity shots.

Really do need to watch this, doing the drinking game

And the final trivia point for me - Sting's first home in London. The cellar of 28 Leinster Square now covered in scaffolding. I believe he lives in several castle's with massive driveways now.

Luggage label on his guitar case. If only Laker Airways could have just lost one piece

A couple of churches - one standing in for a Russian Cathedral in Goldeneye and the walk is over at the final pub. The Phoenix is externally covered in scaffolding and internally is that boring that I cannot be bothered to bring you photos. To be fair, Joolz does have the "Rule of Ted". A rule that means "just use any pub that is handy, as often you will spend ages looking for something better.

The "Rule of Ted" does not apply to caskless Greene King pubs.

So - 10/10 for the walk and maybe 6/10 for his pub selection. But maybe Bayswater is poor hunting ground.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 5

Walk Inspiration - Rather Splendid Lodon Pub Walks - Walk 17