22/03/26 - Stile End and Barrow from the Coledale Inn

My Round at the Coledale 

We had two walks planned from our base in Braithwaite. Both got us up on the fells. The classic "Coledale Round" looked a little beyond our newest recruit to mountain walking.

The ladies in my life - Mrs M and Daughter M

Instead, we went into the middle of the high ridge walk, with a couple of steep but less lofty peaks. 

Stile End, despite being distinctive and very steep, is not a Wainwright. We conquered this with some grumblings but I could not convince the party to attempt Outerside. A drop down and another stiff climb for what - and I quote - "Is exactly the same view". Outerside a Wainwright that doesn't get a tick this time.

We get involved in a mountain race - having no choice but to clog up the thin path to Barrow. This is a steady climb, with most of the height already gained. The views here are immense - the towns of Keswick and Braithwaite, along with Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite Lake.

Mountaineers - one and all

All downhill to the pub, via the only geocache of the day.

Mrs M with her thumb over the lens

I had a wonderful afternoon at the Coledale Inn 9 years ago. I'd completed day 2 of the Inn Way to the Lake District. The pub is the first place you hit as you come off the fells. The sun was shining and the beer garden has an elevated view over the town. I spent an afternoon drinking Yates beer and trying to convince other walkers not to pass on by.

Coledale Inn - 10/10 review on PubsGalore after a wonderful afternoon

Yates may have long gone but the pub is now in the Good Beer Guide. Three real ales on, all from the Lakes. I settled on Corby Blonde for my visit.

I needed more than one to settle my nerves, as I was in the chair for lunch. Steak and chips is now £35.

I had the significant women in my life hypnotised not to look at the "From the grill" section of the menu.

I should have extended the mind-tricks to the £10 puddings.

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Jarrold, Northwest Lakes, Walk 13

20/03/26 - The Kirkstile Inn, Loweswater

Mellbreak-ing Bad

The Kirkstile Inn has to be one of the best pubs in the land. But you have to earn those pints of Loweswater Gold and boy, did we earn them.

This actually could have been a really pleasant walk - without the nausea and the relentless traipse up the side of a mountain on indistinct paths. With this route from the normally rather pedestrian Country Walking Magazine.

Starting from the pub, we walk the western flanks of Mellbreak - following the Mosedale Beck. It's a pleasant farm track, where the only other signs of life are sheep.

Easy Walking

To get that Wainwright Tick - we need to get to the top. My suspicions were aroused in plotting the walk - just before Mosedale Holly Tree (the only tree marked on an OS Map, fact-fans) there is an arrow straight minor path running straight up the side of the mountain. Of course, in reality, there is nothing there. A man in a blue jacket follows a similar marked path to the north but I can only imagine the terrain is equally as tough. All of us stop for regular breathers/the chance not to throw up.

You can ask Mrs M if Mellbreak was worth it

Honestly, the views at the bottom are just as impressive

The descent is better - and it simply leads us to the good path we previously left. 

Mappiman, relieved to have got us down to Black Beck

The return to the pub is as good as walking can get. We simply have to follow the shoreline of Crummock Water along soggy but excellent paths. The Grasmoor reflections in the still water are stunning. There is a little jut of land out in the water, Low Ling Crag, which brought me to tears on my last visit, 9 years ago. The emotion expressed was possibly as much to do with the liquid lunch at the Kirkstile Inn, as I was walking away from it on that day.

Low Ling Crag - an "island", as the end of a causeway

Looking down Crummock Water

The pub is the reward - and the Kirkstile is a special place. In a hamlet, with a small number of buildings and a church, this is a real walkers pub where you can come straight off the fells. If the weather is good - and it was - a lovely, sheltered beer garden is perfect. Most punters with maps out, playing i-Spy and naming the surrounding fells.

It's also the home of the aforementioned Loweswater Gold. A former Champion Beer of Britain. So good, Mrs M moved off from her regular fruit based drinks and declared it "inoffensive". High praise indeed.

Water chaser and the patient wait for fish-finger sandwiches

Export options are available.

Meet the gang

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, May 2015, Walk 15

Geocaches - 0 

15/12/25 - Dunnerdale for the Newfield Inn

Ford the Waterfalls

More than 10" of rain over 24 hours in Seathwaite. Our only surprise, the rain stopped 24 hours earlier than predicted.

Whopping rainfall totals for the Lake District.

Not that far off 2 day record (although not sure if strange rules around 9-9am timings come into play)

Surprisingly few impacts, presumably as high totals are confined to uplands and catchment totals much lower. pic.twitter.com/ftpJgr35iu

— Dave Throup (@DaveThroup) December 15, 2025

This walk is a fine example of why I should carefully study both the route guide and the OS Map.

After spotting a little car park at Seathwaite - hopefully high enough above the River Duddon - we abandon the car journey. There is just no point risking "white van man" on these single track lanes. The Evri driver - for it was sure to be an Evri driver - nearly putting himself up a hedge half a mile back.

A safe place to start - The River Duddon

For a route from "Best Pub Walks" - this is a remote challenge of some beauty. "Not for the unadventurous or the lily-livered" is the opening line.

We follow Tarn Beck up the valley and past Tongue House. It's squelchy underfoot, with Mrs M occasionally disappearing up to her knees. For a border terrier, Ruby makes light work of it on her little legs.

The livestock at Tongue House Farm

We can see the torrent of waterfalls ahead - and it's after a careful look at the OS Map, I start to have concern, that I bravely keep to myself. No point in worrying Mrs M, still chuntering about "Trench Foot". The crossing of the rapids simply shows the path stopping and restarting on the other side. Where are those magic letters "FB"?

The guide book;

"You'll soon reach a point where Tarn Beck plunges from your right over a spectacular series of waterfalls and shoots..... I'll leave you to find your own way across"

   

I have never been so pleased to see a bridge. Truly a case of "The trail will provide".

Relief

Things soon revert to type - the path becomes indistinct and bares no resemblance to the OS Map. Unnecessary climbs and descents and complicated fences and stone walls to try and find a crossing. The forested area of Pike How Close a disaster area. I am not sure what you can call a forest where every single tree has fallen down in a previous storm.  It makes for a very difficult crossing.

Relief, as we emerge at the top of the valley, through the forest

The return is far more pleasant - through a Dunnerdale Forest on proper rides. Where there is a stream, there is a bridge. To the side of the gloriously named Wallowbarrow Crag and a debate about whether to try the pub.

Around Wallowbarrow Crag

Incredibly, for somewhere so remote, I have been to the Newfield Inn before. It formed part of the Inn Way to the Lake District. My notes declaring it the cheapest pint of the week at £3. See if you can guess the year, without clicking the link.

Negotiations ensue... I put up a good case for going, Mrs M declares - and I quote - she is soaked through to the gusset and would rather head home.

We both agree that the chances of it being open at 1pm on a Monday in winter are slim.

2nd Time around for Mappiman

The trail provides for the second time today. The outer door is ajar and to placate Mrs M and her damp pants, the log burner is set to "furnace".

We might be the only customers - but the barman is ready and waiting - looking resplendent in a tie and waistcoat combo. We express our surprise at his opening but in a phrase that will bring joy to the heart of pub tickers everywhere he states "you have to keep consistent hours".

Unexpected Keswick Gold

I really should have explored more and brought better internal photos but we were kept enrapt by conversions about everything from graphite mining (boo Keswick for stealing the glory!), Napoleon, Americans on sheep safaris and how poor Sealskinz gloves are in comparison to their socks.

I need to rethink Mrs M's Xmas present.

Although they might do pants.

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Best Pub Walks in the Lake District - Walk 19 

13/12/25 - The Queens Head, Hawkshead

Hunting for the Girt Clog 

Hawkshead, the prettiest village in the Lake District, is all cobbled streets, narrow alley ways and little squares. Easy to get lost in somewhere so small. With Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter associations, its a tourist hotspot, with plenty of signs saying who did what where.

December is the time to come. If you can afford the car parking (when it's north of a London pint, you are in trouble). The tourist hoardes are away in shopping centres leaving space in the many cafes and pubs.

An Adventure Lab Cache shows us the historical places in town, but we concentrate on the "Doors Open" St Michael and All Angels Church. Norse origins, stunning internal arches, fenced off tombs, wall mounted paintings of biblical quotations and some fine windows.

Ruby and Mrs M on the hunt for ALC Clues

Church on the Hill

Arches built with no formal plans

A slightly inaccessible tomb

Our walk today is infinitely better than the pictures would suggest. Mainly, and this is surprising when you consider the rain, it is completely mud free. Even the grazing fields mainly have paths with a hardcore layer. We cannot believe our luck.

North to Outgate, past Blelham Tarn to Wray Castle, down to Windermere and a circuit of Latterbarrow - without finding the minor path to the summit.

Blelham Tarn

Look at the quality of that path!

Wray Castle Entry - with a cafe that would have added 2m to the walk

A brief view of Lake Windermere

Back to the village, where Mrs M wants to look for last minute Christmas presents. Leaving me the dilemma of which of the many pubs to test. The Red Lion looked a solid Robinsons. The Kings Arms had the best reviews on line. There is a newish little craft beer micro pub that could have offered something different. However, in the back of my mind, I remembered that the Guide Book I am following had recommended The Queens Head.  

I made my choice and I will stick with it.

Lets compare what they had to say in 1992 against what I found today;

"... Looks at first sight to be a sham. The black and white render exterior just that bit too symmetrical to be true, the render and stonework just that bit too regular to belong to centuries past"

It is indeed the oldest pub in the village, serving drovers and packhorse men from the C17th and possibly earlier - a fact confirmed once inside and you see how low the ceilings are. 

"The oldest artifact, however, is the enormous old shoe, known as the Girt Clog, mounted in a trophy case about the fireplace"

Apparently, this is a massive shoe that looked like a taxidermists attempt at a mis-shaped tench. It was made in the 1820s for a local mole catcher, who suffered from elephantiasis.

Moved from the Brown Cow to the Queens Head

Despite providing the name for the local mountaineering club, I don't think the aforementioned footwear is on display anymore.  Internally, its had a make over befitting of the type of punter they expect to lure in nowadays. I am not sure a memento of deformity would be in keeping.  

You don't get this sort of content from other bloggers, but even I have shied away from sending the pub a message to confirm its whereabouts.

However, if I returned, I am sure to ask.

"... offers quality food good enough to accompany the Hartley's XB"

Hartley's brewery was absorbed into Robinsons in 1962 and the brewery at Ulverston closed down. This is now a Robinson's tied house. I went for the Cumbria Way but with a twist.

Old Tom available as takeaway in bottles.

The clog should have been out of shot, to the right

I should have brought a dozen. We are predicted 8" of rain over the next 48 hours.

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 5

Walk Inspiration - Best Pub Walks in the Lake District - Walk 17

   

24/02/25 - Tarn Hows

Saving the best till last

A week of varied walking comes to an end. We have had mountains, caves, beaches and valleys. 

Today, we need a pub lunch to steel ourselves for the long drive home in the dark. Hasty re-planning to take us to the plenty of choice Coniston.

I find a route on Komoot. No upvotes, no reviews but its an absolute beaut. Might have something to do with it being the first day of spring.

Start off at my second secret parking spot and work our way to the North Shore.

Photo tells where we are

A lovely climb through Hill Fell (surely one of those word is superfluous) and then we emerge, unexpectedly for me who hasn't studied the map, at Tarn Hows. Mrs M refuses to believe it is man made, not least because the last thing they need up here is another big lake.

Tarn Hows is a picturesque lake in the Lake District, England, known for its serene beauty and stunning views of the surrounding fells. Despite its natural appearance, it is a man-made tarn, created in the 19th century by damming and merging three smaller tarns—Low Tarn, Middle Tarn, and High Tarn—by James Marshall, who owned the land at the time. Later, it became part of the estate of Beatrix Potter, who played a role in preserving the area before it was passed to the National Trust. Today, Tarn Hows is a popular walking destination, offering a scenic circular route and a tranquil escape into nature.

Simply gorgeous and instantly recognisable to the owners of the dog that we will return to them (and their house) this afternonn.

Approaching Tarn Hows

We're going to miss Ruby - a fine walking companion

The route back to civilisation is rather special too - the Cumbria Way jumping straight to the top of Long Distance Paths that need to be tackled.

Mondays can always be like this

I believe that there are four pubs in Coniston. The Crown looks like it has been scrubbed up and expanded. The Yewdale hotel was a former CAMRA  regional pub of the year. I wonder if the interesting landlord of the Sun is still drinking more than his customers and messing about with local politics.

Yet there can only be one winner. Mrs M asks if I need another photo of the Black Bull.

I'm not sure when I will be back here - but I almost certainly will.

2nd visit this week

Walk Details

Distance - 5.5 Miles

Geocaches - 3 and two ALC

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

18/02/25 - Cathedral Cavern and the Three Shires Inn, Little Langdale

Local's Knowledge

During doggie handover, our hosts recommended this walk. Sometimes, you need to listen to those in the know. After yesterday's mountain top exploits, it was always going to be more pleasant to look at them from below.

Sticking to the valley floor today

We start this belter of a walk at Tilberthwaite - a bizarre car park situation where there is a Ringo controlled car park one side of the stream and an NT car park - sans machines - on the other. I hedge my bets by leaving my NT Card on the dashboard.

Then, its an easy balloon walk from the holiday cottages. The western side more wild than an actual road that says at the Little Langdale end "Unsuitable for cars".

Outward highlight - Slater's Bridge C17th Packhorse bridge.

Mappiman at one end

Mrs M, with dog egg, at the main point

More views from the valley

Mid Point Highlight - The Three Shires Inn is a very convenient 11am opener. A hotel, with a proper bar to the rear. Spartanly decorated but with the obligatory log burner. And importantly, Loweswater Gold. The week would not have been complete without finding a beer that once made me cry after four pints. Waking after a mid ramble nap on a little inlet in Lake Buttermere may a have had something to do with this expression of emotion.

Fine mid point break

Summertime drink of the gods, not bad in mid winter

Return Highlight - all the families are off to Cathedral Cavern - a deep slate mining quarry, where you can walk above, work your way down some tricky steps and find a couple of exits through different length tunnels. The longer one - where a torch is required - has much less water.

From above

A more exciting end to a walk than usual

Day 1 was featureless moorland. Day 2 was sub zero mountains in a howling gale. This, on day 3, led Mrs M to comment that she wished our hosts had planned all our walks.

And so do I.

Walk Details

Distance - 4.25 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration

17/02/25 - Dow Crag

Walna Scar Road - only for the fearless

Every year, I like to walk at least one Wainwright. I currently sit at 87 completed. There are 214. I need to get a wriggle on.

Today's walk begins at the end of Walna Scar Road. My god. Whoever designed it clearly wasn’t thinking of a Seat Ateca. Should I ever attempt it again, I’ll be sure to take a longer run-up—and possibly say a small prayer.

As we set off, snow flurries dance in the air. A picturesque sight, but also a reminder that even the slightest dusting would have left us stranded at the top, contemplating a new life in the fells. "Take up walking to lower your stress levels," they say. Right.

For cars, Walna Scar road runs out at a rather large car park. Now Ringo Controlled and they must have put a mast in somewhere. Didn't stop at least three cars winging it. Yellow penalty notes on drivers side windows are going to ruin your afternoon. At least I know the app works.

From this point on, its a historical pack horse track that leads from Coniston to the Duddon Valley.  A gentle introduction to the days walking.

Ruby on Walna Scar Road - Dow Crag behind

We head North West to Goat Tarn. Photos taken - the Hause behind our access point to the tops.

Mrs M unconvinced there is a path

But look, she is on it and above me

Few photos from this point on. It all gets a little survivalist. On a summer's day, this would have been a near perfect introductory walk to the fells. Slightly challenging, but once the height is gained, a great ridge walk with some super views over the Coniston Massif. 

In February - and contrary to the forecasts - the wind was fierce. Dry your eyes fierce. Now you know why everyone coming in the opposite direction is so rosy cheeked fierce. On completion Mrs M asks if her face is a red as mine. Wind blasted.

The last walk photo..... I'm going for a walk and I may be some time

Even Geocaches needed to be ignored. Not that I could feel my fingers to open tupperware boxes.

But every step down is a step out of the wind. And prizes await once we toboggan back to town, hoping to Christ we don't meet anyone coming in the opposite direction.

The Black Bull, Coniston

I've got many favourite pubs, but the Black Bull has to be in my top 10. Bluebird Bitter is available in bottle conditioned format for export, but it doesn't taste the same as on cask, in its place of birth. Bluebird XB, its slightly stronger brother, is rarely seen elsewhere.

This, and a roaring fire, a fitting reward to a fine day.

The Line Up in the Black Bull. If you are on the bus, go for Old Man

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Dow Crag Height - 2552 Feet

Geocaches - Too Windy to Look

Walk Inspiration - Pocket Mountains - 40 Walk in the Southern Lake District

16/02/25 - Arnsbarrow Hill and Selside

Silence

If you want solitude in the Lake District, you'd be hard pressed to beat the South Eastern Side of Coniston Water. A 5 mile walk and we saw no one. As a break from the disappearing paths and boggy moorland, there is a single geocache. It's name, "Silence".

Silence at Arnsbarrow Tarn

We're in this part of the world for our latest dog-sit. A super cute Border Terrier, Ruby. Not only can she walk for miles but she knows the paths better than either the OS Map or the signs on the ground. Several times, we had to put up with disgruntled looks, as we tried to school her on the route. Disgruntled soon turned to smug, as she was always correct on which way we needed to go.

We start outside the hamlet of High Nibthwaite. The Guidebook says to park at a picnic area called Crab Haws. Ruby's owners save us a mile and probably several dollars by recommending a free parking area near Water Park Outdoor Adventure Centre.

Bottom of Lake Coniston

Back down the road and a circular walk across bleak moorland. The above Tarn the only variety until we start the walk back down and have some views over the water.

Lake Coniston from the Bethecar Moor

Post walk refreshment? We needed supplies and Ulverston has the king of supermarkets. Booths. Incredibly, it also has 7 Good Beer Guide recommended pubs. We hit the Mill. Let's see how the week goes. I may include it in a  Pub Crawl blog.

Walk Details

Distance - 5.5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Jarrold West and Southern Lakeland, Walk 13

Geocaches - 1