21/07/26 - St Michael's Boundary Walk, Tenbury Wells

12 Miles of Nothingness

The idea for this walk came from the "Boundary Walk" for the Beltane Pilgrimage. AI based research managed to find 8 out of the potential 29 Boundary walks. A tick-list was formed. Rare access to the car, meant I could head off to Tenbury Wells for a route that I approached with justified trepidation.

In this part of the world, the paths are usually in chronic condition. A look on the map, and I could see that there was little of interest. Although the paths were better than expected, there were issues. If I knew exactly which county I was in, I would probably log dense undergrowth and locals blockading rights of ways and removing signage. 

No one to report in the lack of villages, pubs or items of interest to. Unless you like dilapidated farms, abandoned golf courses, orchards and wheat fields, there is little for you here. If it wasn't for St Michaels School and a rather unusual church, there would have been nothing to blog about. The walk became a time trial. Could I maintain > 3 mph in a heatwave?

Very specific signage

Herefordshire Orchards

Inquisitive horses, with Titterstone Clee Hill behind.

St Michaels's provided the first place of shelter for lunch and remains of water. An imposing church - especially considering the remoteness - that is nowhere near as old as it looks.

St Michael and All Angels Church, Tenbury Wells stands in an isolated position on the edge of Oldwood Common, about a mile south-west of Tenbury Wells, and is one of the most remarkable Victorian churches in Worcestershire. Built between 1856 and 1858 as the centrepiece of St Michael's College, Tenbury, it was the vision of the Reverend Sir Frederick Arthur Gore Ouseley, a priest, musicologist and passionate reformer of Anglican church music. Designed in the Gothic Revival style by Henry Woodyer, the church was intended to recreate the atmosphere of a medieval collegiate foundation, complete with a renowned choir school, daily choral worship and an exceptional musical tradition. Its soaring architecture, Hardman stained glass and magnificent Father Willis organ reflect Ouseley’s belief that music should be at the heart of worship. The college closed in 1985, but the church remains a remarkable survival — a “mini-cathedral” in the Worcestershire countryside and a lasting monument to Victorian devotion, scholarship and the revival of Anglican musical life.

Tinderbox landscape

I missed the organ. Here is the altar. 

Walk Details

Distance - 12 miles

Geocaches - 0

Pub - 0

Interesting villages - 0

Highlights on Komoot - 0

Walk Inspiration

05/04/26 - The Tipsey Toad, Bromyard

Avenbury Hauntings

The approach into Bromyard brings on PTSD. Over five years since my last visit. You can guess what was going on then. Lockdown #3. I got to look at the handsome black and white timbered pubs but none were open to investigate. 

Nice to look back at the blog. I made do with a delicatessen ram raid and a Baggies victory at the Molineux. Maybe lockdowns weren't so bad. Trump probably ensuring they are coming back in one form or another.

Today's visit was inspired by the Mysteries of Mercia. A book that I need to order at some point, but Hugh, the author, teases with frequent FaceBook posts. Last week, he discussed the ruined church at the abandoned village of Avenbury.

A mooch around the town centre, solving Adventure Lab Caches and looking for post-walk refreshment options and then we are out into the Herefordshire Countryside.

I took an identical picture 5 years ago

There's a couple of walkers ahead of us. When they stop for coffee we learn that they are working the Herefordshire Trail as a series of day walks. Their wives helping with the logistics by dropping them off/picking them up as required. Mrs M gives me the look to say "don't get any ideas". 

When I get a spare five minutes, I will look into public transport availability.

I demand more of the Herefordshire Trail

Through agricultural land, including hop growing trellises before we find the River Frome. Following the banks until we reach Avenbury and its sinister ruins.

Ruins

It's not the ghosts that you need to worry about. The comments on the FaceBook post talked of people living in the churchyard in a makeshift camp. Battling my way through the undergrowth, I found evidence of the camp - loads of rubbish, tarpaulin and a huge water tank. A darting squirrel is the only sign of life, but enough to get the heartbeat raised.

Onwards to Bromyard Downs - always a fine place to walk - before the land attached to Buckenhill Manor.

Views from the Bromyard Downs

Perfect paths through Buckenhill Manor

Lockdown had me jealous for the pubs I could have visited last time. But how many of them remain actually open? A terraced boozer called the Railway (tied house to Johnson's?) looks in perfect condition, but is doors firmly shut. Bizarrely, it closed in the 1970s but has been perfectly preserved.

Residential Use now - wonder how many thirsty people look through the windows.

Other disasters? The Hop Pole looks in danger or matched the Avenbury Church in the ruins stakes. The King's Arms in the high street crying out to be rescued. I'll stop there before I get too maudlin.

The Falcon was a strong contender for the Mappiman dollar but in the end, we chose the newest of micros - the Tipsey Toad. A shop conversion next-door to the dead King's Arms - an actual pub. Maybe it costs less to heat.

A fine example of the micropub blueprint, with friendly locals/staff and a comfortably snug experience split over two floors. The slightly underwhelming and obvious choice of HPA or Butty forgiven, as they shared out the mini Easter eggs.

Mrs M already celebrating the "Bischoff with Coffee" win

Walk Details

Distance - 8.75 Miles 

Geocaches - 13

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, April 2016, Walk 8

14/02/26 - British Camp

On the Trail of Sir Edward Elgar..... Again

It was always the plan to follow up my first Elgar inspired walk. British Camp - a ramparted hill fort - provided the inspiration for the cantata, Caractacus. I've listened to it.... once.... it goes on a bit.

British Camp has long been linked by local folklore to the last stand of the British chieftain Caractacus against the Romans, even though historians now doubt the battle took place there; the dramatic Iron Age ramparts and sweeping views made it easy for Victorian imagination to place a heroic resistance on its summit. That legend inspired Edward Elgar, who grew up walking the Malvern Hills and in 1898 composed the cantata Caractacus, portraying the gathering of the tribes, their defeat by Rome, and Caractacus’s noble dignity in captivity, turning the hills into a musical symbol of ancient Britain, loss, and quiet heroism.

Public transport options to British Camp are limited to summertime at the weekend. Driving would normally pass St Wulstan's Church - Elgar's final resting place. However, long-term road closures send you around the western side of the Malverns, on pot-holed roads, where the expected sunshine had led to post-walk gridlock. I planned to stop for a photo of a place, previously visited. Circumstance dictates that I lift an image from the Internet.

I chose the route from Juile Royle's Worcester News book. Malvern has myriad footpaths - both official and unofficial, map-marked and waiting to be found. The hand-drawn map is of limited value and mistakes were made. Lost in Gullet Wood. Missing out Hollybush through misreading the instructions.

Pick the bones out of that!

Our plan was to use the 24-hour escape from the relentlessly brutal rain and avoid muddy paths and flooded fields. The first half of the walk was a success - British Camp, Millennium Hill and Hangman's hill leaving our boots unscathed.

Ramparts clearly identifiable 

Happy Days on British Camp

The return was on the lower common land - and was of course a filthy mud pit.  It could almost put you off walking for life. Escaping the mud leads to a stiff climb along the side of British Camp Reservoir.

Options to try and improve morale? The café? The bar at Malvern Hills Hotel? We are nothing if not creatures of habit.

A short but tricky drive to the Nag's Head. The finest pub in the land.

Sheep on Berrow Downs

A stiff climb up the side of British Camp Reservoir

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Julie Royle's Worcestershire Walks, Walk 42

13/11/25 - Ledbury to Malvern Link Rail Trail

A Great Pub Guarantee At Either End

A new rail trail that is so new, it hasn't even been published. I noticed it as an advertised Ramblers Walk, where I couldn't make the date. Little information, other than the route detailed on an OS Map. What more do I need?

And the great thing about this walk?

The Prince of Wales awaits in Ledbury, the Nag's Head at Malvern Link. Two of my favourites, that I can never tire of.

I decide to start in Herefordshire.

Herefordshire Bull, Red Earth, River Wye

The first half of the walk follows the Geopark Way, climbing Oyster Hill for the day's Trigpoint. Slippery underfoot, as we appear to be in monsoon season, but fine views to the west making up for tricky walking.

The Geopark Way is a 109-mile walking trail designed to showcase the geology and landscape of the Abberley and Malvern Hills Geopark. It starts in Bridgnorth, Shropshire and ends in Gloucester, Gloucestershire.

Herefordshire Trail slapped on

Westward Views

Oyster Hill Trig Point

The Church of St James the Great at Colwall makes a fine lunchstop. Minor investigation and route diversion to get the Multi-Geocache. “Doors Open”, so I can admire the fine ceiling woodworking, complete with a dated beam from 1675. The carpenters’ initials, “RM and RC” also carved.

Colwall Church (St James the Great) has seen several extensions and modifications over the centuries. The core of the church dates to the 13th century, but significant changes occurred in the 15th century with the addition of Perpendicular Gothic features.

Extension on Extension

Fine Ceiling Work

Dated Main Beam

Of course, the item of most interest to me is the Ale House.

Really?  Oh Go On then!

A church alehouse was a common feature in medieval England, built within or beside church grounds for the purpose of hosting “church ales”—communal feasts where ale was brewed and sold to raise funds for parish upkeep, charity, and festivities. These alehouses were important social centers, playing a key role in village life, especially before the Reformation. Over time, most were lost or repurposed as festivities declined and public houses became more common. 

This example at Colwall is one of the few remaining in Herefordshire. Alas, like more contemporary pubs, it no longer functions for its original purpose. We will have to remind ourselves of the joy through this quote.

"About mid-service, they goe in a rowe, after Priest, into the Church-ale-house to carouse"

No carousing for Mappiman today. At least not until the Nag's Head.

Pushing on with the walk, its the Worcestershire Way taking me to a previously undiscovered private railway. The Downs Light Railway running for all of 0.75 of a mile and the oldest private miniature railway in the world. A project devised for entertainment and education at a nearby school.

The usual fine views from the western flanks of Malvern, with the usual issues in finding the best paths to escape it. Much zigging and zagging adding the miles, when you could just roll downhill.

Looking West from the side of Table Hill

The walk ends, as all good walks should, at the pub. 

The Nag's Head, Malvern Link

It’s been almost three weeks since my last cask pint—ice-cold Efes making sense in the 28-degree heat of November in Turkey. The usual exceptional choice available at the Nag’s Head, where I can either nominate my favourite son or have a family reunion.

• Timothy Taylor Landlord
• Otter Bitter
• Hook Norton Old Hooky
• Holdens Golden Glow
• Teme Valley This
• Thornbridge Jaipur
• Bathams Bitter

And this is just the cask - they also have a fine collection of ciders, bottled international and craft.

In other good news – the pub is heaving. Literally no room inside, with every table in the higgledy-piggledy multi-roomer taken. Even outside is busy, but at least covered.

A fine place to while away a couple of hours.

Walk Details

Distance - 10 Miles

Geocaches - 2

Previous Cotswold Line Rail Walks - Worcester Parkway - Foregate Street, Foregate Street to Malvern, Worcester Parkway to Pershore, Pershore to Evesham, Evesham to Honeybourne, Honeybourne to Morton-in-Marsh

12/08/25 - Clutters Cave, Malvern

Toilet Cave in Broken Britain

The Southern, Herefordshire side of the Malvern Hill. If you want to visit soon, you've got to be quick. It looks like the A449 to the British Camp car park will be closing for 4 months. Of course, the ice cream kiosk have got a petition to stop the closure. How else will they sell two ice-creams for £10 to exhausted ramblers? A man on minimum wage has to work for two hours to provide a family of four with a 5 minute treat. 

This country is broken.

Malvern has myriad paths, so the dodgy hand-drawn map in the Saturday Times was never going to be that useful. Christopher Sommerville wants you to go south on the Three Choirs Way (must be walked!) over Hangman's, Swineyard and Midsummer Hills. Then have a look at the Eastnor Obelisk before coming back on the Worcestershire Way to clamber over the top of British Camp. 

Looking down over British Camp Reservoir

Striding out on Hangman's

Meeting the Gulley Quarry

Up close at the Eastnor Obelisk

Always trying to combine adventures - some things worked out, others didn't.

Facebook's Mysteries of Mercia wanted me to check out Clutters Cave.

Facebook Recommendation

Looking In

Looking Out

I should have checked the Facebook post's comments. Now frequently used as a Rambler's Toilet.

There's a Trigpoint to bag on Midsummer's hill, which oddly isn't marked on the OS Map.  A bit of pre-walking research would have helped.

As it would with the OS Marked Walm's Well, the oldest well on the Malverns. I was so close, yet distracted by the much more modern covered reservoir. The well is directly opposite, should I find myself in this part of the world again.

After the roadworks have cleared up.

And I have saved for ice-cream.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Inspiration - The Times Saturday Walk, July 2025

Geocaches - 0 

23/04/25 - Colwall Bluebell Walk and onto the Ledbury Pubs

AI vs Reality

A Ramblers walk from Colwall Station to admire the bluebell woods. Checking out ticket prices, I can purchase a Worcester to Ledbury ticket for the same price. They do allow for "break of journey", don't they?

The walk is psychogeography at its finest. I have no idea where we will be going, putting the next five miles in the hands of the walk leader. She has done her homework and the advertised flowers are duly found.

Single File through the Bluebells

Easy walking in the foothills of the Malverns.

Always keen to revisit the Prince of Wales - one of the country's more photogenic pubs - I have done some homework. I asked AI to rank the Ledbury Pubs in order. I should have time to visit three.

The Talbot

A historic 16th-century coaching inn offering a blend of traditional charm and modern amenities. With a cozy pub, enchanting dining room, and a not-so-secret courtyard garden, it's a favorite among locals and visitors alike.

The Talbot

Accurate - gaining access is a little tricky. I may have missed it but I never found anything as simple as a door, instead making my way through the secret courtyard into a cozy, fireplace hosting front bar. Old boy bar hangers blocking access to the non-existent staff. A wait - that if I hadn't broken the ice by asking if there was a bell to ring - that was too long to be comfortable. On another day, I would have walked straight back out.

Barstaff are also restaurant waitresses. And she only has one pair of hands.

Four cask on - a Wadworth House that the main local explained to me has a special deal to serve Butty Bach as well as the expected 6x, Swordfish and one other unremembered. 

The old boys engaged me in conversation. I didn't actually expect to be talking with a Vietnam Vet from Seattle when I set out this morning, but he made sure I had my chance to rant about the land of the free.

Prince of Wales

A 16th-century timber-framed pub renowned for its extensive selection of cask ales and continental beers. Recognized by CAMRA as Herefordshire Pub of the Year, it offers a cozy atmosphere with regular folk jam sessions and hearty pub meals.

Photogenic

AI not commenting on just how handsome, welcome and timeless it looks. Quiet enough on a Wednesday afternoon, I was able (for the first time) to position myself in the front bar room. Plenty of time to check out the chalkboards. Can't be many pubs where I can have a Utopian 7.5% Dopplebock but even I had the sense to not take advantage of the barman's offer of "Same Again?" on completion.

Anyone with a love of pubs should visit.

Pub Number 3

Seven Stars

A historic inn at the heart of Ledbury, sourcing ingredients from its own farm near Malvern. It offers spacious accommodation, local food and drink, and a warm, traditional setting.

Quinno's Pubsgalore review told me all I needed to know. The bar staff still have waistcoats. They are doing their bit to maintain the national average £5 pint price by wiping out any gains I have had elsewhere.

But they do have the new Landlord glassware. Wye Valley Bitter has been renamed "Pyoneer". Timothy Taylor have employed the same designer that scrawls on Superdry clothes.

What a time to be alive!

 

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Ramblers Led Walk

Geocaches - 12

20/03/22 - A Hereford Pub Crawl

Pubs - 5

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #654 and #655

The view from a Hereford pub terrace

I must be the man with the easiest attainable bucket list possible. High on the list is "Visit Barrels Pub, Hereford". The reason is as follows;

I live in a small town called Stourport on Severn.  7 years ago, we didn't have a single pub that served a decent pint. The choice was to travel to Bewdley or stay in. Then the Black Star - a previously excellent pub that had been run down into the ground - was taken over by the Wye Valley Brewery. A new landlord/landlord revamped the boozer. They served beer that has continued to annually achieve 100% from the Cask Marque audits, introduced live music on weekend nights and offered good value/quality food. Customers poured back into Town. The Swan - previously derelict - was brought back from a unsightly death. They too joined the Black Star in the GBG Guide.  Micropub Tap Rooms breathed life into derelict shops.  We even have a Tap Room Brewery.

There is no longer any need to travel to Bewdley.  Or Stay in.

And the secret of the Black Stars success? They based the format on Barrels - the original Wye Valley Brewery, before they expanded out to a purpose built facility in Stoke Lacey.

A night in Lenny's Purple Palace and a look around what the City has to offer, beer wise.

The Britannia, Cotteral Street, Wye Valley Bitter

Back Street Boozer

This is another of the three Good Beer Guide Entries in the City. Alas, the Beer in Hand Micro Pub does not open on Sundays.

It's a little out the way from everything else but worth seeking out. Located in a couple of knocked together terrace houses in a back street, its knocked through inside to create an airy drinking space.  Comfy sofas, high beamed ceiling, central bar, a nice patio out back.

As a Wye Valley House, you would expect the WV Bitter to be excellent. It was.

Room for improvement? They neither knew what cobs are or sold them.

View from the Comfy Seats

The Black Lion, Bridge Street, Three Tuns Solstice

C16th Coaching House - The Black Lion

A lot to admire in this ancient boozer, located at one end of the C15th stone bridge.

Mainly setup for dining inside but the drinkers are catered for - with three hand pulls. Two from my favourite Shropshire Brewery - Three Tuns.

A lovely garden patio to enjoy the sun setting on the first day of spring.

The Saracen's Head, St Martins Street, Wye Valley Hopfather

Sign says "Chef off ill (not Covid)"

If it is the first day of Spring, no one told the Saracens Head.  In through the door behind the "Not Covid" sign and you are hit with a blast of heat that can only be described as stifling. They will change their ways when the next EDF bill drops on the doormat.

I order the one handpull on - a good chance I will do the full Wye Valley range tonight - and ask if the door to the river terrace is open.  Landlady looks at me with suspicion saying "it is, but we have the heating on". Things get back on friendly terms when I state I merely want to go through it.

My reward - the view is the photo at the top of the blog. And I completed the Sunday Times Very Hard Suduko, 3 pints in.

Barrels, St Owens Street, Butty Bach and Little Bighorn

Not the Lamb Hotel, Barrels

I can hear the music on approach.  The sound of laughter and general high spirits. Up to now, most of the pubs have been quiet. By the time I leave this place to continue my investigations, the other pubs are either empty or closed early.

Barrels is hoovering up all the City's customers - ranging from students, to cyclists, to rotund beardies who wouldn't look out of place in a certain Viz comic strip.

Multi roomed - with a choice of going left or right through the front porch. It makes no difference - you are served from the same central bar. As you'd expect, the beer is exceptional.

Wonky Donkey shot from the Right Hand Bar

Despite being comfortable, I don't stay inside for long.  The courtyard is where all the action is. The old brewery to the right and a covered stage to the left, where a two keyboard vocalist is having a good go at rock and roll classics. 40 people singing along to Steppenwolf's Born to be Wild, played by a bloke on a Roland is how I want to spend my Sunday evenings, as the spring sun sets.

Get your motor running

Superb.  Everything I expected and more.  May become an annual first day of Spring pilgrimage.

Lichfield Vaults, Church Street, Bass Premium

Former GBG Entry

An C18th ale house, tucked away down a cobbled pedestrian street.  Four other punters and a dog.

Notable for Serving Bass - so of course I informed TheWickingMan on my Untappd checkin. If only I determined if it was a regular or a guest, he could have entered a new Herefordshire Section in the most complete directory of Bass outlets on the Internet.

I'm yet to have a reply to my FB message to make up for my lack of investigative journalism in realtime.

Adjacent Grapes closed at 9pm on a Sunday

The Imperial Inn, Widemarsh Street, Goffs Cheltenham Gold

With the Grapes - the last on my list to visit closed - I use the Cask Marque App to find a last hurrah on the way back to the hotel. Yes, I know, its not a foolproof plan for finding quality beers. It came up trumps tonight - despite everything screaming it wouldn't.

C20th Building - looking more ancient

Not a single other punter in a chainy looking pub.  Surprisingly, four handpulls on - Doombar, Tribute, one unremembered and when the barman adjusted the pump clip to be flush with the customer, a rarely seen Goff's Cheltenham Gold.

I didn't expect much from a place that was showing no signs of real ale turnover but the Cheltenham Gold was in absolutely perfect condition.

A fitting end to a night that held only positive memories from a new City.