10/07/16 - The Coach and Horses at Weatheroak Hill

Distance - 4.5 Miles
Walk Inspiration - Pub Walks in Worcestershire, Walk 6
Geocaches - 2 found, 1 Seen
Pub - Coach and Horses, Weatheroak Gold

Just over two years ago, we celebrated completing the writing of the Brummie Ring by shunning the refreshments available in Alvechurch and finding the more remote Coach and Horses at Weatheroak Hill.

We vowed to come back and complete a walk from here - after all, it is number 6 in the top 10 pubs in the West Midlands (although is actually in Worcestershire).

It's taken a while.

First, lets get the walk out of the way.  It wasn't the best, battling as we did against appallingly maintained stiles, dense undergrowth, disappearing paths (god damn you Alcott Farm with your roping off of horse enclosures) and one spectacular stumble before I had even had a pint.

It could have been worse - after a stagger, lurch and roll, I came to rest with my head inches from a large pile of horse manure.  It would have been messy but a strangely symbolic walk review.

We start at the pub and head up the Roman Road of Ryknild Street.  A geocache is halfway along a tunnel used as a stream conduit - I had a torch, clambered down and thought, Na - I want to be half decent for my pint.  Always sad to spy one but not get the smiley.

Another lonely pub - The Peacock is at the top of the hill.  Unlike the Coach, its shed it's agricultural watering hole roots and is now a Chef and Brewer.

Must win a prize as the most remote Chef and Brewer

Rest of the walk is made up of a stretch of the North Worcestershire Way and a drop down to walk alongside the M42 to the horsey hellhole of Alcott Farm.

These are the highlights;

Lovely Blue Skies

2 Cache Finds today - this one next to the M42

Things reached a nadir when we were faced with a totally overgrown swamp or a clamber over a barbed wire fence to make our escape.  The fence won.  No way for two 46 year olds to behave.

Pleased to get to the pub, where they have got everything correct.  They have left the original building for drinkers and inside, its probably not changed much in centuries.  To cater for diners, they have built a smart extension on the side.  The two groups of punters can exist in splendid isolation.

In an old stables at the front, they have their own brewery.  I went for a Weatheroak Gold and as you would expect, it was in perfect condition.  Top pint - with a choice of four others from the brewery and a number of guests ale.

The real highlight was seeing the mound of cling film wrapped cobs (not batches, barn cakes - cobs) behind the bar.  So many times we only have the offer of a full Sunday Lunch when out on the Sabbath.

The pub is only a couple of miles from Hopwood Park Services at J2 of the M42.  If you are passing and want a break - come here instead.  Its an improvement on KFC.

The Stable Brewery

Drinkers Quarters

Balanced Lunch

14/06/16 - The Royal Oak at Gretton

Distance - 5.9 Miles
Walk Inspiration - Walk 1 - Walks Through History in Gloucestershire
Geocaches - 1 (a drive by on the way into Winchcombe)
Pub - The Royal Oak, Gretton, Wye Valley HPA
Detailed Walk Instructions and History Information - For Download Here

Winchombe has everything I need and has always been a favourite.  On top of the fine pubs and many walking routes there is some real history in the town.  The last time I came, I remembered to look at the courtyard of the old George Inn.  This time, I remembered to look up at the stone "Grotesques" adorning St Peter's Church.  On reviewing information about King Kenulf's coffin in the Church, I read about how you can see musket ball pock marks on the west wall from a firing squad in the English Civil War.

Damn.  Looks like I am going to have to return.

Today, I am primarily here to investigate one of Gloucestershire's Top 10 county pubs.  The Royal Oak in nearby Gretton comes in at Number 4.

But first the walk....  and importantly, can I complete it inbetween weather that is somewhere between the thunderstorms of the American Plains and the precipitation of the Amazon Rain Forests.

I start in centre of town and instantly the heavens open.  Take refuge under a conveniently placed awning.  The rain is fierce but lasts moments and I can move on.  Through the square, past the old favourite of the Plaisterers Arms, down Vineyard Street and past the entrance of Studeley Castle to gain entrance into the countryside.

Where the Ducking Stool cured Naughty Ladies

Thanks for the heads up, telegraph pole

Frequent views of Sudeley Castle

A gentle climb up past Humblebee Cottages (does a home with a finer view exist in the Cotswolds?) and onto the historical highlight of today's walk.

Humbebee Cottages

And their fine, fine views

No doubt footfall is higher since Julia Bradbury described its virtues on TV with a frankly ludicrous linear walk that would have left amateur walkers stranded on Cleeve Common with no way of returning.

With the thunder rolling in over the Evesham Plains, the 3000BC Burial Tomb of Belas Knap is an evocative place.  It was a toss up about whether to wait things out in a sheltered entrance or continue back to town.  My meteorological skills deduced that the storm would pass me by.

There is a storm coming

3000BC Burial Chamber

The Portal was nearly Mappiman's Shelter

And I was almost correct.  Follow the Cotswold way downhill and past the Cricket Club.  I get oh so close when the rain starts again.  A proper soaking means I have to wait things out in the shelter of woodland near a layby.  The boredom is broken up by a Yodel delivery man putting his hazard lights on and leaping out of his van.  What could cause someone to voluntarily cede shelter?

All is revealed when he opens his flies and releases his little Yodel.  Still, the look on his face when he saw a man in a bright red goretex coat waving at him from beneath a tree was priceless.

Dropping Down on the Cotswold Way for a Yodel based Flashing

Back into town and I try and get a few photos of the Grotesques on the St Peter's Church.  They really are worth investigating.

Top Hatted Grotesque

Far too damp to head into the Plaisterers Arms, I return to the car to dry off everything electrical and attempt to make myself presentable for the Royal Oak.

Its a traditional Cotswold building from 1830 but with a bright, contemporary interior.  It's real selling point (on better weather days) has to be its huge garden with a frankly wonderful view of the Cotswold Escarpment.  Get in on the right day and a steam train from the Gloucestershire - Warwickshire Railway will come chugging down the foot of the garden.

Unassuming Exterior

Views East

Views West

The pub has a separate drinking area for those wanting to partake in one of the five real ales on - I went for my usual Wye Valley HPA - and two separate rooms for more formal dining.  Quite full at 8pm on a Wednesday, with ladies who have already lunched and my personal favourite - an old boy complaining that his impulse bought bucket of chips were just "sliced potatoes".

Today's Reward - Wye Valley HPA

A first drive through Gretton, which has many architectural highlights.  Another return visit required but alas I cannot frequent the Bugatti Inn.  It's now an Indian.

11/06/16 - Hawkesbury Upton

Distance - 8 Miles
Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine November 2005 Walk 20
Geocaches - 5
Pub - Beaufort Arms, Butcombe Chinook APA

After circumnavigating Birmingham for 27 miles, it was always going to be a countryside walk this weekend.  I also thought it was time to start on the Top 10 County Pubs in Gloucestershire - and Number 1 looked as good a place as any to kick things off.  I am off to Hawkesbury Upton but where to walk?

Library consulted and it's an 11 year old route from Country Walking Magazine.

The Classic "Down your way" Section

I've been to Hawkesbury Upton before, as its on the Cotswold Way.  For the life of me, I cannot remember a thing about it.  And you would have thought Somerset Monument would have stirred some sort of memory.

First View of Somerset Monument - to be visited later in the walk.

I drop down to Hawkesbury Church.  This is where the village used to be centered but apparently the old Manor House went to rack and ruin when the Lord's daughter fell to her death waving at her lover through a window.  The villagers moved up the hill, leaving a rather isolated church.  I investigated but a locked door prevented a view inside.

Hawkesbury Church

A bit of road walking as I head towards Horton.  I'm glad to be out of the wet waist high grass that has left me both soaked and covered in pollen.  I am not going to be at my sartorial best for the pub visit later.  Decent views of the Severn Plains.

Views Over the Severn Plains.  Raindrop on my lens

Another Church - this time at Horton Court.  Once owned by William Knight who negotiated with the Vatican for Henry VIII divorce from Katherine of Aragon.  No doubt he came to a sticky end, as he failed.

Horton Manor Church

Onto the Monarch's Way, uphill.  There's nothing really represented on the map and this hold true on the ground.  Bodkin Hazel Lane and Marshfield path having nowt to look at apart from crops.  Pick up the Cotswold Way to have a look at Somerset Monument up close.  A very well hidden geocache provides some entertainment in the undergrowth.

Somerset Monument

Somerset Monument

Before hitting the pub, it's a question of adapting the route to get the bounty for a multi cache, worked out in advance to save time in the field.  This allows me to loop back into the village from the other side and have a nose at all items of interest.

Memorial to the Fallen

An unvisited Italian Inspired Pub

So, to Gloucestershire's best pub.  It's in the Good Beer Guide (at least the 2003 version, which I really need to update).

One of my walking books refers to it as the Duke of Beaufort and there is evidence of rebranding on the sign at the back of the pub.  Its an old converted farmhouse coming complete with its own well and resident ghost - who super naturally messes about with the gas in the Cellar.  The locals are very talkative, instantly getting me into a multi person conversation about the history of the village and learning plenty about the white slave trade, the links with various monarchs and their patron saint - St Wulfston.

Rarely have been made more welcome.  Especially in wet trousers covered in yellow rape seed pollen.

Beaufort Arms from the Front

And evidence of hasty rebranding from the rear

Beer wise, there's four real ales on and I plump for the unfortunately named, yet delicous Butcombe. They sell the Bitter in one of my locals but here, they have a never spotted before Chinook APA.

This Pale Ale is even better than the bitter.

Superb Pint

But the beer adventures don't end here.  On plotting the route, I noticed that I would be within 4 miles of Wickwar, home to the eponymous brewery.  On Monday Evening, I was enjoying a pint of their Falling Star in Bearwood.  It would have been rude not to pop over and get the Euro Ales in.

Wickwar Brewery - Opens as a pub on weekends

07/05/16 - Wye to the Thames - Walk 1 - Hereford to Ledbury

Distance - 18.5 Miles
Geocaches - 6
Pub 1 - The Crown, Woolhope, Wye Valley HPA
Pub 2 - The Talbot, Ledbury, Wadworth 6X
Pub 3 - Prince of Wales, Ledbury, Wye Valley HPA

So another adventure begins.  A long out of print guide that detailed a route following the Cotswolds Railway Line from Hereford to Oxford looked right up my street.  The first leg is a whopping 18 miles, so perfect conditions were needed - including Sonia being at work, decent weather and British Summer Time.

May 7th 2016 and I begin.  The 12 stages (remainder are mercifully shorter) will be completed over the year.

Found on Ebay

First direct Train from Droitwich and at 8:20am, I am alighting at Hereford.  A quick couple of miles through suburbia to reach the Wye Valley and the countryside.

Scene from a Sidetracked Geocache

The Wye Valley Walk

The route looks like it is along well established paths.  In addition to finding the Three Choirs Way and the Herefordshire trail later in the day, I start off along the Wye Valley Walk.

Wye Valley - A brewery and a Walk

Decent walking along the river takes me through Hampton Bishop, the River Lugg and onwards to Mordiford.  As well as having the oldest surviving bridge in Herefordshire (1352, history fans) it also has one of the Top 10 Pubs in Herefordshire.  I console myself with the fact that I am not going to be able to visit at 9:30am with the thought that two more await me in Ledbury.

Mordiford and a 14th Century Bridge

The Moon Inn - Return Visit Required

Up into Haugh Woods, where an early lunch is nipped in the bud by a million flies that have a thing for Roast Turkey Baps and onwards to Woolhope - where the OS Map has a Big Blue Cup of Joy.

Coming out of Haugh Woods and Into Woolhope

It's too much to be walking past two pubs on such a thirst inducing walk.  I approach the pub at 11am, more in optimism than expectation.  Like arriving at a bus stop, its always a good sign if someone is already waiting there.  And there is.  My icebreaker that I cannot be an alcoholic if I am not the first to be waiting for the pub to open builds enough rapport for me to determine the pub is being opened early for the start of a stag do.

I just have to hope its fancy dress and the theme is rambling.

Crown Inn at Woolhope

Comparing the Walk with the Beer

Nice halfway stop, watching the stags arrive and greeting each other with bonhomie based banter.

I need to press on, so hit the countryside with bucolic views over Herefordshire.  I adjust my route slightly to take in something on the OS Map marked as "The Wonder", which also provides the chance to grab a couple more geocaches.

Herefordshire - and the threat of Thunderstorms

Bigging up "The Wonder" - A landslip that occurred in 1575

The only thing to break up the uniformity of the many orchards (we are in cider country) is Putley.  I ignore Putley Court, with its awful bolted on extenstions and focus my investigations on a wonderful little church.  Even test the door and have a look inside.  Would like to report on how spectacular this is (home based Internet research confirms this) but alas, I couldn't find the light switch.

Putley Church

Carved Sandstone Cross - 4 effigies, with Jesus facing west

The orchards take me to Ledbury.

My path through the Orchards

So Ledbury - what do you have for me in way of reward for a monster walk completed on the hottest day of the year?  Fine medieval architecture and two top 10 pubs in the county of Herefordshire.

The best of the Architecture - 1617 Market House

My first pub is new to me - the Talbot.  Built in 1550, its now serving Wadworth to 21st Century punters.  I take a 6x out into the sheltered courtyard and have my first encounter with the Silurian Border Morrismen.

The Talbot - 6th Best in Herefordshire

Morris Dancers - Bringing a bit of colour to proceedings 

Quick pint here and I have time before my train home to revisit the Prince of Wales.  I think I am falling in love with this pub.  Super fine setting and great beer.  Every village should have one.  I get talking with some people taking photos of the Cask Marque sign.  They tell me there is an App that helps them locate great pubs - with the chance of winning prizes for your endeavours.

Oh, yes, I have a new hobby.

And then the silence is broken.  The jingle of bells and shouts of who has the kitty can mean only one thing.  The Silurians are coming - they are both thirsty and recruiting.

Now, what could be finer than a pub crawl, preserving England's heritage and a bit of a dance around with a blacked up face?

The only thing that stops me joining is that it would interfere with my walking.

4th Best in Herefordshire

Wonderful Wye Valley HPA

The Silurians - recruiting in Ale Houses around the Country.