02/09/23 - Psychogeography in Digbeth

Urban Rambling with the Bluenoses

The blog is in danger of becoming too urban. Two weeks running with the Baggies at home for a 3pm kick off. Once again, I tackle a city walk from my AZ Hidden Walks in Birmingham Guide.

This quirky little route is concentrated around the eastern side of Digbeth High Street. As usual, unusual items of interest are pointed out. The effigies that brighten up the Institute. An out of place monument to JFK. The unique in the UK open air pulpit on St Martins in the Bullring. Junkies stopping me bringing you a photo of that particular piece of architectural interest.

I also got a look inside the Bull Ring Tavern. Not as scary as I always thought, even when packed at 10.30am with football fans. I'd neglected to take into account that the Blues were at home at midday. They were out in force all around Digbeth. Who knows where the Milwall fans were, but most pubs had "Home Fans only" on the signs. 

Craft Union now running the Tavern in the Town?

A pre-preemptive effigy on the front of the Institue

JFK - Celebrating his Irish Roots

I'm not sure where this left me as a Baggie.... but I'm too old and fat to wear replica kits, so I'll go incognito for mid and post walk refreshment.

First, random bimbling around the deserted back streets that would have been terrifying if not totally deserted by people - excluding those queuing to buy vintage clothes by the kilo.

It always surprises me how empty Birmingham feels whenever you leave the centre. It provide ample opportunity for street artists to do their thing.

Digbeth Street Art

I had plans for which hospitality venues to visit, but on an Urban walk, flexibility is key. I was never going to walk on past Dead Wax. Especially once the outside boozers had noticed I wasn't from Wapping.

Beer, Vinyl, Live Music - Welcoming Party

Excellent music. If you are a mod. More of a ruin bar than the ruin bar coming up, with all sorts of obsolete technology nailed to the walls. Super little sheltered beer garden.

Edgy, like Hoxton, Prices to match with a £6.50 Siren

The Bluenoses thin out after midday, leaving me to still wonder how they will walk a mile and get to their seat in time.

I have company at the Baggies and my son was interested in previous experiences of Zumhoff. A taste of Bavarian Beer Garden in Brum. They also have Pilsner Urquell tanks for fresh beer.

I asked the barman how the tanks of filled and he said "Never seen it happen mate, as it only gets refreshed every 6 months". I laughed until I tasted. The beer was sour and quickly swapped for Paulaner.

I cannot accuse him of lying - tasted 6 months old

More European style boozing as we leave Germany for Hungary and our answer to the Budapest ruin bars.

The Ruin follows the disheveled blueprint well, even if there is little imagination with the nomenclature. One day, I will explore the beer garden.  And bring you interior photographs.

The Ruin

Regular blogfans may have spotted a couple of missed tick opportunities. I was too early for Halton Turner and Digbrew is dead, permanently closed since January 2023.

One for the dubious ticks committee 

Walk Details

Distance - 3 Miles

Walk Inspiration - AZ - Hidden Walks in Birmingham Walk 5

Previous Birmingham AZ Walks - Walk 1 & 2, Walk 3, Walk 4

Pubs - 3 

19/08/23 - A Couple of Ticks in Kings Cross

The Curse of Pub Ticking:  Another contender for my favourite London Pub

The Good Beer Guide takes me to an absolute delightful pub... bizarrely one never visited before. Pentonville's King Charles I is in the correct part of a town for a Northern based beer tourist. Yet, somehow, this gem has sailed under the radar. I won't be a stranger going forward.

Spilling out in London

Don't tell Soho's Coach and Horses (or Smithfields Hand and Shears) but I may have a new favourite.

In common with those pubs, The King Charles I feels like a locals pub. A selection of characters on a Saturday afternoon that provide perfect entertainment for those who can discreetly people watch. 

A high stool at the bar, the best seat in the house.

Eyes Front - Southwark Brewery Vista - A Single Hopped American Pale Ale

The History (A rare feel good pub story)

The pub was rebuilt in the 1930s and was originally called the Craic House. It was a popular spot for locals and was known for its friendly atmosphere and its live music.

In 2015, the pub was put up for sale and faced the threat of being turned into flats. However, a group of local residents and pub enthusiasts banded together to raise money to buy the pub and keep it open. They formed a community benefit society called Ale Purveyors Limited and successfully purchased the leasehold in 2016.

In 2019, the pub was listed as an Asset of Community Value (ACV). This means that it is considered to be an important asset to the local community and that the community has the right to be consulted if the pub is ever put up for sale again.

How lovely to see a tragic story so often told having a happy ending.  And I love the blurb from their website.

A vital part of the Kings Cross community, we also welcome visitors from further afield to our down-to earth boozer, which is mercifully still thriving in a rapidly gentrifying area. 

Today's Visit

This is one of those pubs that I felt instantly at home. Could have been the wood panelling. Might have been the walls mounted with nick nacks - from the intricate to the stuffed animal heads. The juke box definitely played a part. The beer quality and choice was taken for granted with its bible recommendation.

I'm not a fan of signs banning things in pubs but a single placard proclaiming "No Racists, No Sexists and No Fascists" should replace "Live, Laugh, Love" in home furnishing departments.

View from a High Stool

What the chaps in the first photo would have seen if I was the invisible man

But is the people that make pubs. In the space of an hour, I was included in three conversations. One about beer - expected. One about football - standard. One containing details that I would not have told a priest in the confines of a latticed confessional.

I left with a warm feeling of having been entertained and worthy of trust with another's problems.

But there was work to be done.

You can't be classed a pub ticker until you've had Fullers ESB in a busy railway station.

Damn, I forgot my drinking mascot

05/08/23 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Walsall

 A Pub Crawl with a Macabre Interlude

One thing invariably leads to another thing. A podcast brought Peter Underwood, a paranormal investigator, to my attention. A web site has digitised some of his works and includes a map of where his investigations took place. Only natural to look at what's closest and there's an entry for Walsall - where there remains much pub ticking work to do.

On possibly the wettest day of 2023, I make the 90 minute train journey, covering all of 23 miles, to go in search of spooks and pints. 

After such an public transport odyssey, a breakfast is required. And who wouldn't want to breakfast in a doric arched former civic building, with the added bonus of drinking a Camra Champion Beer of Britain award winning beer?

Found on Flickr - Too wet for me to stop for photos

Abbot Ale - there's not a bandwagon I wont jump on - especially sub £3

St Matthews Hall ticks all the JDW Boxes. A trek upstairs to find the loos. Cheap beer. Quickly served breakfast. Architecturally stunning, both inside and out. It isn't every day you can drink in a library. It isn't every day you can drink in a Grade II listed building. 

Not that that stops them getting torched in this part of the world.

Such a sad end to such a historic building… RIP the Crooked House pub… pic.twitter.com/C0Azbp4ZXQ

— Once Upon A Time In The Black Country (@once_country) August 6, 2023

As to the award winning qualities of Greene King - not getting involved. Too much to discuss in the blog.

Despite the rain, a walk around Walsall Arboretum and then through light industrial estates that make me think I have plotted Pretty Bricks incorrectly into the GPS.  But there, opposite a "Hot Foil Stamping and Pod Printing" factory, it stands.

Have you ever seen prettier bricks?

Listening to another podcast - Birmingham food critic Simon Carlo's Meat and One Veg - he claims his three favourite Brum pubs are the Jewellers  Arms, the Wellington and the Craven Arms. The common denominator? They are all Black Country Ales tied houses. And so is the Pretty Bricks. Simon, like myself, is obviously a fan of the traditional pub experience.

Just add punters and you have the traditional pub experience

Zero other punters. I suppose Walsallians cannot be bothered to walk through industrial estates in the rain.

The only change from the BCA blueprint I noticed was a traditional beer board, rather than a PPT on a TV Screen. Just the 7 real ales for me to chose from, with Fixed Wheel No Brakes Pale Ale my pint of the day.

I was going to save the Fountain Inn until the end, but as it is at this end of town, I head there next. I've heard good things about this from one of the hosts of the Beer O'Clock Show podcast. Not that I was likely to miss a GBG nominated brewery tap.

Another solid looking traditional

The front door presents a choice of "Snug" and "Bar", with both rooms separated by a central bar. Handpulls on either side with differing options and I was pointed to a chalk board list of offerings.  The funny thing is, I did not notice any from Backyard Brewery, for which this is the tap room.

Maybe I panicked too early under the pressure of making a selection. Not that there was anything wrong with my chosen Abbeydale Explore the River Aire ESB. Which I assume was meant to look like that. Only 9 other Untapped checkins, leaving me unable to prove the haze one way or the other.

Three other punters at 1pm on a Saturday

Onto the reason for being in Walsall but don't drop off, pub fans. Unexpectedly, amongst the many chicken shops of Caldmore Green, is a Tudor Manor House. Since 1817 and until very recently, it was the White Hart Pub. 

Chicken Shops not captured by another Flickr user

Now flats, but the signage remains to show "what you could have won"

During renovations in 1870, a Cromwellian sword held by a dissected child's arm was found in the attic. Local legend had this down as a "Hand of Glory". This medieval folklore tale claims that the hand of a hanged criminal, fashioned into a candle holder can be used by burglars to avoid detection from the occupants of the house they were robbing. The fumes knock them cold and the only way the flame can be extinguished is via milk.  Admittedly, for spooky content, the last part of the myth needs some work.

Tests showed that this limb was actually pickled and most likely used by medical practitioners who had bought a cadaver from the local grave robbers - known in these parts as "Digg-em-uppers".

Got half an hour spare? This amateur youtube video is much better than you would expect and gives you the complete story, including that of the ghost of a woman, impregnated by a member of the royal family.

Still leaves Andrew as the biggest wrong 'un.

And what did the Council do with these artifacts? In classic West Midlands style, they lost the sword and put the arm on display in the town library. Pandering to modern sensibilities, it was removed from public view but until recently, was available on request.

But if you want to see one - go to Whitby Museum, where they have a bone fide Hand of Glory in a glass cabinet. You've got to love this country!

Back to the pubs and one last Good Beer Guide Tick at the Walsall Arms.  A proper blogger would link a joke linking back to the White Hart.

Down the Back Streets of Walsall

At last pub life - split into thirds. One third watching a Man Utd friendly. One third watching the racing from Newbury. One third on their phones, into pork scratchings or both at the same time.

Pub with punters

Five real ales on - and a decent St Austell Proper Job, stuffed into a Wye Valley glass.

Will I back in Walsall? You bet your bottom dollar.

I forgot to go to the Victoria.  And the Butts Tavern. Hell, they might even let me into the Cricket Club, if I bring the bible with me.

22/07/23 - The Royal Oak at Tetbury

 Trouble at Tetbury

11 years since my last visit to Tetbury. A walk marred by bad weather and a bad pint. Armed with a Good Beer Guide Tick to aim for but still in appalling weather, I hope to have at least 50% more success this time. 

Today's walk start at the old railway station - a Beeching casualty - with the goods shed now repurposed as an Arts Centre. A cafe and free parking makes for a busy start, even if the rain is coming down as stair rods. Rain spotted photos, when I can be bothered.

A sequential (no need) Adventure Lab Cache forces me to look for clues through the town centre first. Counting screws in door brackets in a storm..... how do you spend your weekends?

The Market Place - an a pedestrian unfriendly town.

Tetbury Church, where I hunt for an 8 layered pyramidal tombstone

The walk breaks down into three distinct stages - agricultural fields on the Monarch's Way - lane walking to Newnton Hill and a wonderful disused railway line called the Tetbury Trail.

Easy walking on the hardcore

I noticed the Trouble House on the drive in. A former pub, it now looks like a cafe but post walk research has the magic three letters - B A R. I should have explored more - its a mere half mile in the other direction to reach it on foot. The wikipage makes for a fine story. The area known as "The Troubles" - due to both flooding problems and issues with press-gangs. The Trouble House Halt became the only railway stop built to serve a pub and didn't they put up a fight when the Beeching Axe fell. A coffin full of empty whisky bottles sent to the destroyer of railways. The last passenger train stopped on the tracks by burning hay bales.

Where is this spirit of rebellion now?  

France.

My refreshment is the GBG Tick - the Royal Oak. Situated more or less at the former Tetbury station.

Alas, a pub that is less than the sum of its parts.

Cotswold GBG Ticking

Accommodation blocks and a nice garden for another day

Inside, its strangely soulless for a pub. Wood aplenty, most tables with "reserved" signs. Staff that refer to you as "Sir" far too often for it to be comfortable, especially when they are from higher up in the class system.

Otter Bitter was one of four available - and maybe a touch too cold, but OK.  A sausage sandwich for a tenner that came on regular sliced bread that couldn't cope with the sogginess of the onions, less palatable.

Especially when the order was lost.

Lots and lots of wood in the Royal Oak

I'd say me and Tetbury are done - but the Trouble House needs investigating.

Might be in another 11 years.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Guide to Cotswold Pub Walks, Walk 14

Geocaches - 1 regular, 1 ALC

 

 

08/07/23 - Liverpool - A Georgian Quarter Good Beer Guide Pub Crawl

 Another Liverpool Pub Crawl... Another New Favourite?

Third time crawling in Liverpool, after doing the must visits and more recently, Dale Street.

Today, I am in the Georgian Quarter - close to the City Centre, with architecture not totally dissimilar to the part of North London where all the politicians live.

Once again, I end the day impressed with the choices on offer. Every trip seems to generate a new favourite. Maybe its good to share the title around.

The Globe in Cases Street wins that prize for today. I tweet about having learned never to judge a book by its cover and a Roger Protz retweet about being the location of the first CAMRA meeting in Liverpool nearly 50 years ago sends me viral.

Liverpool seems to generate this sort of interation.

Best thing about pub ticking is that quite soon, you stop judging books by their covers.

Another Liverpool gem.

If Untappd still checked into Twitter, you would have a strong clue 🤣 pic.twitter.com/TwRtEIGC5J

— Mappiman (@Mappiman1) July 8, 2023

The clever people who can read backwards pointed out a stronger clue as to my location.

It certainly doesn't look much from the outside.

Old School

Inside, a small front bar around a horseshoe bar, with an almost secret room behind. Wall mounted brewing paraphernalia.Timothy Taylor Boltmaker from a handpull festooned with the Champion Award medal.

I could have stayed all day, listening to the old boys bantering.  

A different, slightly unusual experience at the next tick - the Fly in the Loaf in Hardman Street. Named as such, as the premises are a re-purposed bakery.

Boozing in a Bakery

Judging by the amount of different ways that chips can be "loaded" on the menu, I think this is aiming for the Student demographic. And in July, there are no Students. That's the only explanation I have for why I ended up in such a cavernous venue alone.  I say alone. The barman was here. He looked me up and down and automatically applied a CAMRA discount on my TT Landlord, bringing it to the odd £4.23.

We must have a certain look about us.

Moving on and its The Grapes in Roscoe Street and I find PubsGalore stalwart, Blue Scrumpy's, favourite Liverpool boozer. 

The Grapes is probably still just about my favourite pub in Liverpool. When it's quiet (generally during the afternoon), it's a lovely place to while away a few hours and working your way through the beer selection. When it's busy (evenings), it has a really lively atmosphere and appears to be much favoured by students.

No disagreement from me - I found Utopian ESB on Cask.  

Apparently, they have the best selection of Rum this side of Cuba

ESB - Must stand for Extra Special Beer

Having never found Utopian on cask before, I then find it twice. Final new Tick is The Dispensary in Renshaw Street where I find Extra Pale Ale on hand-pull. It's another standout traditional pub but one with a USP to make its stand out from crowd.

Would say the King of Crisps but I once nearly died a happy death of indigestion on Slabs 

That's it for new pubs - but I know you would be disappointed in me if I didn't.

Landlord. Pork Pie with black pudding. A different landlord.

Storm is coming. I may be trapped.

Send prayers. pic.twitter.com/ryqScb8dxZ

— Mappiman (@Mappiman1) July 8, 2023

54 likes and counting....... I told you people love Liverpool boozers!

05/07/23 - Aberaeron for the Cadwgan inn

 A circular coastal walk and a wait for a 2pm opener 

Back to Aberaeron, as we haven't ticked off the Good Beer Guide Entry.

The walk - a classic coastal romp across agricultural hills with a first. A footpath that runs directly through school grounds. A school that must be for young offenders, judging by the fortification. Gates firmly locked and we are told that the footpath re-routes to a lane during school hours.

We should have paid more attention to those signs you see taped to lampposts.

Aberarth to the left, Maesyreglwys to the right - both visited on the walk

Civilisation is met at Aberarth - a collection of houses, a village hall but nothing providing liquid refreshment. We gain access to the coastal path, complete with warnings to stay away from the cliff edge and various landslips. A google of the minimum height definition for cliffs is required. We can't be more than 15ft from the beach.

The Cliffs of Aberarth

Hit the town for 1pm. An hour to wait for good beer. Independent pet shops selling all sorts of things that you wouldn't think to give a dog. Guide dog in training Ivy showed no reticence, taking a chunk out of her yak milk chew before we had paid for it. 

We are on holiday, so it is acceptable to sit outside a pub waiting for the scrape of the bolt. We won't the only ones with a thirst. A local with a pram full of chihuahuas will be our drinking partner today.   

 

2pm Today - and every other day - named after the last ship built in the village

For the second time this week, I will let Quinno's Pubsgalore review summarise things.

I think this is my favourite pub in Aberaeron nowadays, keeps things simple but to a high standard.

A single roomer with nautical nick nacks, a log burner and friendly owners. A first chance to try Tenby Harbwr Sea Horse - an American IPA. 

Inside the Cadwgan

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walks in Ceredigion, Walk 16

03/07/23 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Cardigan

 Cask just doesn't sell

A blustery, rainy day where the best plan is to head to civilisation. A choice of two multi Good Beer Guide towns available - we head south along Wales answer to Route 66, aiming for Cardigan.

A mooch around, following an Adventure Lab Geocache and feasting on the local delicacies. What are those delights that smell delicious in the bakery?  Chelsea buns.

Historical highlights ticked off, its down to the river for the 11:30am GBG opener.

Down by the river

For pub #1

The Grosvenor is a neat enough pub, all polished floors, open plan and making the most of the location by having fine views over the river.

OK - Its quite gastro.  Special is dressed crab with bread and butter.  £18.95

Quite a theme - a LocALE stuffed in a Doom Bar Glass

So far, every pub we've visited has had a local brewery representative. Experienced pub goers will notice an unusual, previously unseen front pump clip is usually bolted onto a more familiar Doom Bar back bracket. You certainly can't miss the glassware. Today, its a hazy IPA called DAI-IPA from the Cardigan Brewery. 

200m away is the 2nd GBG Tick of the day. Advertised on Whatpub as an 11am opener but the door was only open at midday. I don't need to tell you the history, when signage can do the job for me.

1105 - beats Ye Olde Trip and the Fighting Cocks

Door Ajar

Well here's a first. I head to the bar to see all three handpulls reversed. A conversation ensues...

Me:  "Delivery Issues?"

Barkeep:  "No"

Me: "Heavy Weekend?"

Barkeep: "No"

A Pause.....

Barkeep: "Cask just doesn't sell".

I remember GBG Ticking in Plymouth in 2021 and the owner of Vessel, a micro-pub, telling me how proud he was to be in the bible. One of only 7 venues listed that doesn't sell cask, he said. Inclusion confirmed through a wide range of UK, German and Belgian craft ales.

I'd love to ask Ceredigion CAMRA what their thought process was. Tetleys and Brains Barry Island IPA on keg were the highlight of the Black Lion's offerings. 

Quinno, when reviewing on Pubs Galore, had a similar experience....

Being a GBG21 entry I was pretty disappointed to find no cask, and no real sign of it having been available lately either.

Mrs M and Guide Dog in Training Ivy - unimpressed with Storage Wars on TV

I've possibly been to a pub with a worse beer selection. But not one recommended by CAMRA.

I include a 1972 Map, should you wish to visit yourself.

Lots of Aggro

01/07/23 - Aberaeron to New Quay for the Black Lion

Once again, following in the Footsteps of Dylan Thomas

With the usual frisson of nerves, we wait for the T5 Bus to whisk us to Aberaron. This is a linear walk back to New Quay, so we will be committed. A mere 3 minutes late and we are off, winding along the coast road for an 18 minute journey that will take us significantly longer on the way back.

Aberaeron has something about it. Regency architecture, colourful buildings and a harbour that we are forced to walk around before the walk gets going proper. I hope to return. 

The Cadwgan Inn is a Good Beer Guide Entry.

Aberaeron Harbour

7 miles of linear walking should always be a joy. Lush green to the left, grey ocean to the right. Wind best described as "bracing". Alas, there is little along this section of coast. You know you are in trouble when there is not even a bench to sit on.

Following the Wales Coast Path Signs

Whilst keeping the prize of New Quay in sight at all times

Everything is forgiven on the final stages of the walk. At low tides, its possible to complete the last mile along the perfect golden sands of New Quay Bay. I'm still in wind battered fleece. Other users of the beach are in the sea.

Quite the arrival into New Quay

Despite Guide Dog in Training best efforts at getting us cut off, we make it across the final rocky section before getting swallowed by the tide. You cannot stop a puppy from wanting to play when there is a beach full of new friends available.

To the pub...

There's little doubt that over the course of the week, we will visit all of New Quays watering holes. Yes, I will use all my powers of negotiation to get Mrs M over the threshold of the Sea Horse.  She will come to like karaoke.

Today, it's the town's most famous pub. The Black Lion, a favourite of Dylan Thomas.  Referenced in his poem, "Quite Early One Morning".

‘Pink washed pub…..waiting for Saturday night as an over-jolly girl waits for sailors.’ 

Good Beer Guide 2023 Entry - Pink No More

Reputed.....

Dylan Thomas has been a virtual drinking companion of mine over the years. I've had halves in Soho's French House, where Dylan left behind his manuscript of "Under Milk Wood".  I've had pints in New York's White Horse Tavern, where Dylan has his final (18) whiskies before he died.

This sort of serendipity promotes conversation. Mrs M asks if I would die if I drank 18 whiskies, whilst mentally calculating the generous death in service benefit that I currently have until my imminent retirement.

The pub - bare floorboards, pub grub food where no one, not even those with salaries, can afford steak. A little alcove at the far end, called the Cwtch. Fans of Stella (tv series) and Tiny Rebel, will know this as Welsh for cuddle.

Purple Moose beers on and from last night, I can confirm the High Hops to be in great condition.

With the sun out this afternoon, it had to be ABK Hells lager.

Improvements?  Well, Mrs M hates pubs with a "No Dogs" policy. 

But when you have a view in the beer garden like this, that's a bit churlish.

Of course, we stayed for 18 whiskies

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, June 2003, Walk 16