31/10/20 - The Last of the Good Beer Guide Ticking in Chipping Norton

Things hadn't got quite as bad as the Weekend Section in the Times implied.

I only had 24 Hours

24 Hours in Chipping Norton.  I am sure that I could have spent the time in a more productive way to spend my time than walking 16 miles in a storm.

For instance, I could have been making progress with the new Good Beer Guide.  It plonked on my doormat on the 29th October and by the 31st, Boris had threatened to interfere with the broadcasting of Strictly to announce that pubs are dead.

I shouldn't have cross ticked.  A pristine bible will be worth more to future museums 

Oxfordshire CAMRA seem quite fair in their allocation, alternating entries between the Chequers, the Fox, Bitter and Twisted and the Crown and Cushion on an annual basis.  I was thinking of visiting all four.  This proved a logistical nightmare of begging with the masked "Covid Keepers of the tables" that I gave up on two.

The Chequers is the current entry - and a Fullers House from 1794 seemed a good place to start.

If you are going to go into 2nd Lockdown, it might as well be with the taste of ESB on your lips.

I am going to miss both you, and your brothers

Mask up, burst through the door, answer in negative that I haven't booked and I manage to secure a table for 60 minutes before those with foresight turn up.

I like a challenge and the challenge was to sit by the fire and see how many ESBs I could demolish before being forcibly ejected for crimes against planning.

My Sort of Bar (without the face masks)

If you hang around long enough, the circumstances will change.  Having negotiated my seat, I attempted to negotiate my tea.  Initial attempts failed with me being told "If you haven't booked, the Chef won't be able to fit in cooking you a meal".  Not sure of the logic there but when another, friendlier server offered me a new unreserved seat (presumably having seen I was a model customer, solo but drinking for three), he did supply me with a menu on request.

I would have enjoyed my steak far more without the glares over the top of a Bane facemask from Server 1.

This time next week, they will have to remind themselves what customers are.

The Fox from afar

Onto the Fox, which looked busy - with masked up parties spilling out and into taxis.  Lord alone knows where they were heading?  Chadlington?  Church Enstone?  Where is the action in this part of the Cotswolds if it's not Chipping Norton?

A long wait at the door next to the sign that says "Wait Here".  No room at the Inn but they do have a wonderful beer garden with sectioned off booths.  There's no stopping me for I am in my big coat.

The booth next to me huddle around a phone to see Boris's Bumbling.  Here we go again.  4 weeks in Lockdown.  I'm sure they said that in March.

Before the pubs reopened in July.

Subtle changes.  Those pubs that want to do takeaways, can't do takeaway beer.

Do they actually think about the impact of their words?

Who knows where next weeks blog will come from?  I am allowed out for exercise and short journeys in a car.  No definition of what short means.

Don't Americans drive for 2 hours for a burger?

I have a feeling I am going to arguing this point in the bleak midwinter.

Just before I get tasered.

Old Hooky - As Bad News Arrives 

31/10/2 - The Glyme Valley Way and the Black Prince, Woodstock

Distance - 16.5 Miles

Geocaches - 6

Walk Start - Chipping Norton

Walk End - Woodstock

Walk Inspiration

So, this seemed a good idea.

• Despite extensive walking in the Cotswolds, I've never really been to Chipping Norton.
• It has a Premier Inn.
• On my ever growing "To Do" list is a 16 mile walk along the length of the River Glyme - from Chipping Norton to Woodstock.
• Both locations have Good Beer Guide 2021 recommendation.  A publication that arrived on Friday and following Saturday's Boris Bulletin, can be promptly be thrown in the bin.
• The Premier Inn, when booked in advance, was £33.
• It was booked in advance.
• Before I had chance to see the weather report.

The Winner of the "2020 Langdale Walk in Adverse Conditions" goes to the River Glyme.  

The rain was beyond biblical. The Wind enough to frequently make Berghaus Deluge Overtrousers go half mast.

On another day, this could have been a pleasant day out.  Its easy walking along the river and although not specifically signposted, navigation is easy.

Potential highlights;

First civilisation at Lidstone - 3.5 Miles in

Could see no sign of life at the Crown, Church Enstone - at 12:30pm

Exotic River Glyme Wildlife

Coppiced Trees before Radfordbridge

Walking right through Kiddington Halls Capability Brown Parkland.

Four hours of soaking and the sun appears

Autumn walk through Glympton Woodland

It was a battle.

After 16 Miles, I was so grateful that a Good Beer Guide 2021 Pub has been built over the River Glyme at Woodstock that I forgot that there is another in the village.

Black Prince - from a Bridge over the Glyme

The Black Prince is a bit of a stalwart of the Good Beer Guides - being an ever present in the last five editions.  Carrying just two handpulls, I was offered a taster of both, before I make a decision that could rescue the day.  No need to try the Tribute but a first taste of Chadlington Oxford Blue convinced me to go locALE.

Pub Interior on the last Saturday before Lock down 2

Entertainment wise, I determined that the one way system added another 1/4 mile onto my journey to get to the loos and got confused by the times of the S3 bus.

The only people that understand public transport are the old and that is because they have lived a long, long time.  Google - and the Stagecoach Website - correctly identify that the S3 goes every 30 minutes.  

To two different locations - Charlbury and Chipping Norton.

It was the kind of day where I made it to the Farm End bus top with 2 minutes to spare. Just before the Charlbury bus came along.

The Crown Inn will have to wait for another day.  I've loitering at a bus stop to do.

25/10/20 - Black and White Villages of Pembridge and Eardisland

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - 100 Walks in Hereford and Worcestershire, Walk 33

Geocaches - 0

Pembridge has previously been a place that I have only ever driven through, usually when hurtling to Mid Wales (currently out of bounds). You can't help but admire the black and white timber framed houses from the C17th and the brown signs from Herefordshire County Council recommend a "Black and White Village Scenic Drive".

We would have started today's walk from here but the New Inn is dog unfriendly.  Eardisland is on route, has two pubs and the Cross Inn rectifies this fault.  

If anything, this village is even more scenic - nestling on an arched bridge over the river Arrow, with a collection of interesting buildings - from the AA Dr Who Tardis to a Staick House from get this... 1300.  Currently for sale, with viewing days arranged for this weekend.  Unsure if the builders guarantee still applies.

Down by the River Arrow in Eardisland

Crown Inn, next to the AA Tardis

We decide to do the stretch west along the River Arrow first.  Thinking is that this will provide chance for Guide Dog in Abi to dry off after she has her inevitable dunk.  Its easy walking across arable fields and sheep only in the final one.  The dunk is needed.  Abi manages to find a very dead rabbit to first roll in and then attempt to eat.  Could have been a first - family vomiting on one of our walks.

Access to the river at Pembridge provides the chance for a good clean up.

At this point of the walk - butter wouldn't melt

Plenty to admire in Pembridge - Almshouses, Hospitals, Shops and pubs

All the excitement out the way, its quiet lane walking back to Eardisland.  The Cross Inn more than matched the studiously researched trip advisor.  As fine a Sunday Lunch as we have had out and the Butty Bach on top form.

Easy Walking Home

24/10/20 - Pilgrimage to Tripel B's, Worcester

Distance - 10.5 Miles

Start - Walk Inspiration

Geocaches - 2

Maybe the British Pilgrimage Trust (BPT) had different destinations in mind, but I can't help but feel that I have stumbled on a fantastic new walking resource.

As well as some fantastic multi day, long distance paths - they have a series of day pilgrimages to British Cathedrals.  Worcester has four to attempt, a lengthy 21 miler from Evesham to more sedates ones from Droitwich, Malvern and Upton on Severn.

And you can take your pick on the where to arrive. The BPT will try and seduce you with glorious interior shots of a building started in 1084 or I can offer you a little piece of the Continent, in a time when you have to use your imagination if you want to travel.

The walk itself is a little monotonous. Its 50% walking along the Droitwich Canal, 50% along the River Severn and 100% easy to navigate.

Droitwich Canal in Autumn

Salwarpe Church for a Multi Stage Geocache

New Fish Filter Lane at Bevere Weir

Rains come in - as one of the Prizes is in Sight.

Of course, if you haven't been to the Cathedral - you should visit at least once. But with the rain driving in, I seek refuge in Copenhagen Street and one of the newer Micros Pubs on the Worcester Scene - Tripel Bs.

A little piece of Belgium in Worcester

This wonderful oasis of calm opened on in 2009 - promising an authentic and laid back cafe culture experience that I think Tony Blair was after when the potential for 24hr drinking was introduced.

This is my third visit and first since the crisis. I was delighted to see it thriving and long may it continue.  Its going to take me many visits to make a dent on the extensive menu of draft Vedetts and Duvals and 100s of bottled beers. The mind boggles at how much glassware they must carry - as each is served in the correct ceremonial chalice.

And a third menu takes you to a food menu with Belgian delicacies, which includes a cone of frites with home made mayo. I needed something to absorb my first ever Straffe Hendrick bottle, after a draft Duvel.

Behold, a composite image of beer beauty

On being dropped off at Droitwich Station - Mrs M asked my why I needed to take my big rucksack on a day walk.  I set off walking with "you better not be buying more beer" ringing in my ears.

She better not go looking on top of the garage fridge.

16/10/20 - Harrogate to Knaresborough along the Nidd Gorge

Distance - 5.5 Miles

Geocaches - 5 and a Lab Cache

Walk Inspiration - CAMRA Pub Walks in Yorkshire 

This is a walk in honour of Bob Steel, author of many of the CAMRA Pub Walks Books.  I've completed many of his walks in London and Edinburgh and found him most engaging on Twitter, as I shared routes of his I had completed.  It was on Twitter, I found out that he passed about 2 weeks ago, when I was planning this walk. 

RIP Bob.

I've saved this one for the last day of our Yorkshire jaunt.  It has all the attributes that I love in a walk.  Linear, with a return on public transport.  Arriving at a historically interesting new town with plenty to discover.  Good Beer Guide recommended pubs.

And we can start from our (AirBnB) front door.

It only takes a short bimble through a housing estate before we pick up the Nidd Gorge.  Guide dog in training Abi is delighted.  She has 5 miles of free running/swimming on the fast flowing, yet mainly shallow River Nidd.  We won't hear a peep out of her for the rest of the evening.

Nidd Gorge Info and more or less our route

Harrogate Disused Viaduct

You mean I get to swim as often as I want in the River Nidd?

A midday arrival into Knaresborough and we mix things up seeing the sights by finding the 5 stage Adventure Lab Cache and visiting any of the Good Beer Guide Pubs that happen to be open on Friday Lunchtime.

Knaresborough's most famous attraction

Knaresborough Castle

The View from a Lab Cache Location

Onto the Pubs.

Six Poor Folk - Jaipur

Former C15th Almhouse, this is now a little bit micro, along with some outside seating - where you can overhear why people really need to buy a flat cap from the milliners opposite.  Rest assured, no one can carry off it as well as Idris Elba.  Otherwise I would have bought one.

I started the week off with what I thought was a dodgy pint of Jaipur.  Glad to say that I was proved correct, as the pint served here was so good, Mrs M suggested we stay for another.

One poor folk, one poor dog, a cider and an exceptional Jaipur

Blind Jacks, Black Sheep

Just around the corner - and with the windows open, you can be serenaded by the busker.  No "Wonderwall" here - its operatic arias.  Mrs M recognised "One Cornetto".

Small but perfectly formed pub that in these strange times, had the advantage of a printed menu for all things cask and keg.  Alas, bottles were too numerous to be added and as the beer mats were branded St Feuillien, I cannot help but think I missed out on a Friday lunchtime knee trembler.

Black Sheep's new Glassware

Good Beer, Good Times

The Mitre, Timothy Taylor Boltmaker

The trains back to Harrogate are every 30 minutes, but it doesn't matter what time you time your departure, there will be the chance for just one more.

This could not be any more convenient for the station.  With the Harrogate Tap at the other end, there's no reason to stop the party then either.

A little bit soulless inside - with identikit pub furniture - the visit was saved by good service, food and beer.   

Boltmaker IS my pint of the week in Yorkshire.  Sorry Theakstons - it was close.

Knaresborough's Waiting Room - The Mitre

15/10/20 - Ripon and the closed at lunchtime Good Beer Guide Entries

Distance - 6.25 Miles

Geocaches - 7

Walk Inspiration - Jarrold 49 Yorkshire - Walk 11

Off to the Cathedral City of Ripon for more water course based walking.

Ripon's Prime Assets in one Photo

The narrower River Skell runs through the City.  Shallow enough for a dog to wade across but you do worry about whether the rapids will whisk her away.  This leads to the mightier Ure, where we do a two sided lap - crossing the river at North Bridge and Hewick Bridge.

River Ure

Guide Dog in Training Abi 

Must be a first - a circular walk, taking in the banks of two rivers.

With a handful of perfectly place, hand crafted Geocaches, we arrive back in the City at midday, looking for refreshment.

Two potential Good Beer Guide Ticks - The King William in darkness and doors bolted.  Google (which of course I should have checked first) states that its opens at 4pm.  Mrs M decides that the exterior is unworthy of photographic recording for posterity.  Onwards to the One Eyed Rat - which has a sign outside declaring Covid adherence and the large beer garden that we would have surely taken advantage of.  5pm opener.

I just want a nice pub, open at lunch!

The other pubs in the City did not look too inviting.  A couple of Green Kings and assorted establishments guarded by smokers in doorways, where you can only hope their coughs aren't that serious.

Instead, I decide to follow a couple of brown signs on the drive back to Harrogate.   Bishop Monkton has two - both closed at lunch.

Success found at the Malt Shovel in Brearton.  From the outside, you would think you'd be lucky to get a pint of mild and a pickled egg.  On entry, it became obvious that we had entered a world far more gastro.  

The fishfinger sandwich was "haddock goujon" and came with a soup spoon to slurp at the unexpected Cream of Mushroom in a teacup.  

Theakstons Best - beyond gorgeous.

Which is best - this or Soup in a Teacup

W/B 10/10/20 - Harrogate Good Beer Guide Ticking

Strange times for the pub ticker.  Reality brought home as the walk from my AirBnB passes Yorkshire's Nightingale hospital.  I started a careful investigation of Harrogate's pubs scene on the Saturday - getting my first non booking refusals - and continued at more quiet times over the next few days.  Always taking the advice delivered succinctly by Major Tom's.

Hands - Space - Face

The Old Bell, Timothy Taylor Landlord

This was my first port of call on a Saturday night and the first time there has been no room at the inn for me anywhere in the land.  No room available at any time this weekend.  Instead, a Tuesday night visit gained access without issue - but sitting there blogging my Masham experience - I could hear others being refused entry.

Old Bell

It's the closest I found to a traditional pub experience in Harrogate but even is this is deceptively young.  Rebuilt on the site of the Blue Bell in 1999.

Well looked after - both me and the TT landlord - as I finished up blogging and gazed through the window at a rainy Tuesday in town.

Pub Views

Coach and Horses - Dead

Saturday was turning into a farce - I had been also been turned away from Major Tom's Social and Adventure Lab Caching took me to the furthest outlier pub - the Coach and Horses.

Hello Darkness, My Old Friend

The nearby Tap at Tower Street told me that it had been a forced closure as they had recently broken the rules of six.  Plastered on the doors was a notice for re-application of a liquor licence.

Starling Independent Cafe Bar - Norther Monk Faith

Cafe Culture

Not sure exactly what this is.  Too big to be a micro.  Too beery to be a Cafe.  Importantly, it was open and had space for me to sit in the steamed window on the first floor.  A long way from the pizza loving and sweary students.

I embraced the craft experience with a murky Northern Monk Keg.  It was like there was a party in my mouth.

The C Bomb Droppers offering nothing to the ambiance

The Little Ale House - Vocation Bread and Butter

Saturday night started with a wimper but ended with success..... not that I was 100% convinced I should be entering any premises with "Little" in the title.

Not easy to find.  I went around streets with Cheltenham in the name several times before realising its underneath the Indian restaurant, where I was forced to ask a smoking diner if he knew where it was.  Pointing directly in front of him, I was reminded of the time I caught a 20 yard Taxi to Edinburgh's Oxford Bar, when I had lost my bearings there.

It has white frontage on Google Maps

It transpired that I had nothing to fear from somewhere so little.  Not only did this have a garden - it also had patio heaters.  The beer was excellent and the service was exceptional.  

Mrs M is joining me mid week.  I hope to persuade her to revisit.

Harrogate Tap - Timothy Taylor Landlord

One for the rail travellers - as they have converted some former railway buildings outside the main station.  I popped in on my way back from York.   Not too much to say really - long bar, plenty of space and those table/seat combinations that somehow reminded me of a less sticky Wetherspoons.

Would I go back?

Well, I am thinking of getting the Train back from Knaresborough.

All in lights

Major Tom's Social - Chimmay Blue

Yorkshire Youth Club

In true pub ticking reportage style, I'll leave the best to last.  I didn't know quite what to expect from a "Youth Club for Grown Ups" but that description more or less nails it.

High ceilings and loads of space - they even had the added protection of perspex-ing off the tables.  Drinks are ordered from a QR Scanned Web Site that lists their full compliment of casks (2), kegs (several), bottles (many) and whiskies (unusual).  Payment on line too - so you just login, read the descriptions, place your order and sit back and hope that it has all gone through.  

Of course it had...  with friendly delivery service that made the whole experience a joy.  I wonder if we will ever go back to jostling for space at busy bars and getting into fights by answering "Who's Next" with misplaced assertiveness?

Food Pairing - Belgian Style

Nice vibe, with other youths playing board games and some decent music at a good volume.  

Time to sit back and relax and ponder whether Yorkshire ever forgives or ever forgets.

I mean, to go to all that trouble....

Footnote:  Eagle eyed boozehounds will notice that I didn't blog on the Blues Cafe Bar.   The queue was 10 deep on Saturday and even I have levels of risk I am prepared to entertain.

Plus it was raining.