28/12/23 - Chiltern Chain Walk - Stage 18 - Stoke Row

 Remote Brakspear Pubs in Oxfordshire

With just two stages of the Chiltern Chain Walk to go, I am reaching the far western extremities. I'm also revisiting the Ridgeway but remembering little. Did I really have to walk across a golf course on Nuffield Common? How is that the three miles of Grim's Ditch seems so unfamiliar?

Thank God I blog.

Today's walk starts at the hamlet of Stoke Row. The Cherry Tree Inn to be exact.  From there, its the usual Chilterns loveliness. The flint ground coping with the wet weather better than yesterday's Warwickshire mudfest. Fine tracks, woodland that makes for good walking but poor photos and a distinct lack of anything interesting to report.

Items of most interest.....  A potential refreshment stop at Nettlebed's Cheese Shed. Geocaching on the Ridgeway. An unexpected WWII Aircraft Crash site that has an interesting modern story of remembrance.

Enough Cheese was consumed on Xmas night.... no need for the Cheese Shed

Geocaches make happy homes for snails

Loss of all life, after clipping Ipsden Church on a test flight

Which leaves the pubs. I'm in the heart of Brakspear Country. Their website gives little away as to where they now brew following a Fullers move in the early 2000s. They sold the brewing business to concentrate on the pub real estate. It appears they do now have a small brewery in Henley on Thames, although no idea what is produced there. From their website, I learn more about the only English Pope (1154, Nicholas Brakspear) than the fact that they moved brewing to Wychwood (RIP), subsequently conglomerated into Marstons. 

Despite the only two cask beers on gravity pour at the King William IV in Hailey, I shall be forever grateful for getting me out of the rain. As if by design, the heavens open just as I reach the door.  The only way to stop this is for me to have a half and don full top and bottom hard shells. Not a drop fell for the rest of the walk, as I rustled my way back to Stoke row.

A pub in splendid isolation

My half of "Oh Be Joyful" and the gravity racked barrels it came from

In a world of change, Quinno's pubsgalore review from 2018 stills holds true;

A wonderfully located rural pub in the Chilterns with the front garden affording a lovely view of the rolling hills, fussing farmers and wandering wildlife. There are three distinct areas inside after entering through the porch, with most of it given over to dining though drinkers can imbibe on the left-hand side. Décor notes - red and black chequerboard tiled floor, exposed brick, inglenook fireplace, brasses. Having been forewarned that the beer quality was ‘variable’ I was prepared for the two Brakspear ales on gravity…and inevitably my Hooray was flat and not overly enjoyable (ever heard of a hard spile?). It's worth a visit for the location for sure, but it isn’t anywhere in the league of a true rural gem like the Bell at Aldworth.

Fortified for the final three miles and the Old Cherry Inn - a similarly grand country pub, trading mostly on dining.  Dating from the 1830s - a nice history write up here.... although they fail to mention it was once owned by Carol Decker from T'Pau.

Big Van with the Hobgoblin doing deliveries on my arrival

A comfy chair, in front of a wood burning open fire was just the ticket after 13 long miles.

Even with an Oxford Gold.  

Walk Information

Distance - 13 Miles

Geocaches - 10 

Walk Inspiration

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17