Friday, 7 April 2023

07/04/23 - Chiltern Chain Walk - Stage 16 - Cowleaze Woods

 Another beautifully boring yomp through the Chilterns

Only snippets of drama on this leg of the Chiltern Chain Walk. An Adventure Lab Cache in Cowleaze Woods tells me of the WWII crash site, taking me off path to find the memorial to 7 lost aviators. The information board summing it up best when saying "Tragically, having survived thousands of miles flown across Europe, they crashed here when they were so nearly home"  

Cowleaze Woods Memorial
Cowleaze Woods Memorial
Cowleaze Woods Memorial
Cowleaze Woods Inscription

The next 12 miles are so typical of the Chilterns. Super walking, amazing views, valley descents and climbs. Unusually for a Bank Holiday, its gorgeous blue skies and it would be a real curmudgeon whose mood is not lifted by the sight of new born lambs and walking along a valley floor under the shadow of soaring red kites.

Stokenchurch Tower
Stokenchurch Tower - a marker along the M40 that means I am 90 minutes from home
The Oxfordshire Plains
Frequent views like the Oxfordshire Plain, towards the end of the route

The route runs through Wormsley Valley to the dry village of Ibstone. With the exception of the Barn restaurant at Turville Heath - pre-bookings only - there are no refreshment stops of any kind on this route until Christmas Common. And this requires a long pull uphill through Fire Wood.

I have never been so pleased to see a Brakspear Pub.

Fox and Hounds, Christmas Common
Water had expired 2m before arrival

The Fox and Hounds is a quintessential country pub, appealing to ramblers and diners in equal quantities. A small bar offers the smallest choice of drinks (wine excluded) that I think I have ever seen. Four keg fonts and a single cask hand-pull. At least the Brakspear Gravity session bitter will be fresh.

I take it outside for a choice of seating, either inside or outside a massive wigwam.

Fox and Hounds, Christmas Common
Think Nan is wondering why I photo my pints

Enough signal for Untappd, where I am surprised this session bitter scores so low.  2.9 may well be the lowest rating I have noticed. Yes, it 3.4%. Yes, I've purchased it four times previously and don't remember.  But it was clear, foamy refreshment that was most enjoyed. Maybe beer is all about circumstance. I was parched, the sun was shining and I knew was just a mile and a half from getting out of my walking boots and into comfort.

Alas, I hadn't expected that last mile and a half to be a drop down to the Oxfordshire plain and climb back up.

1450ft ascent in the gentle Chilterns.

Walk Information

Distance - 12.5 Miles

Geocaches - 3 and an 8 ALCs

Walk Inspiration

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15


Saturday, 1 April 2023

01/04/23 - The Stirchley Beer Mile

 Linking the varied drinking dens of South West Birmingham


I'm not sure who invented the Stirchley Beer Mile. The "art work" - and the only document that suggests it is an actual thing - was created for a series of short lived books called the "Brewery Bible". I say short lived, as it looks like they set off to document the country but stopped after just two region specific editions. Maybe keeping on top of breweries in printed form was too volatile a pursuit to commit to hard copy.   

A simple concept, it joins together micro-pubs, brewery tap-rooms, bottle shops and (hold onto your hats) an actual proper pub into an Oven Ready Pub Crawl. Start at either Bournville or Kings Norton train station, walk a mile and hopefully have enough wits about you to be able to navigate New Street Station on completion. Both directions have advantages - start at Bournville and you have less distance to carry your bottle purchases. Start at Kings Norton and is downhill all the way, with some fine views of the City.  

King's Norton's Redbeer'd provides my first of three Good Beer Guide Ticks of the day. 

Redbeer'd Stirchely
A barrel barrier against the outside world

A simple micro following the classic forms. Mismatched furniture, bar constructed from scaffold, seating for 12, a toilet somewhere on the premises. The staff were friendly, knowledgeable and unlike some places on the tour, not troubled by the health and safety consequences of dispense quantity. Delirium Tremens Red for £6.70 a pint.

Redbeer'd Stirchely
Mortality reminding art work.  Barrels.  Nan's old kitchen chair.

Two bottle shops are next along the Pershore Road. Pre-covid, it was possible to drink in at least one of them.  No longer, which is beneficial for my ambitions of getting through the afternoon. Superb collection and a single purchase was made from both Cotteridge Wines and Strichley Wines. This year's Xmas big hitting Belgians are sorted, and its only April.

In between the two offies is the first fail of the day. Annoying, as its rather embarrassing to walk 200m through an industrial estate of proper grafters to find Glasshouse Tap Room closed, and then retrace your steps. Reopening in Spring. Whenever that it is.

Glasshouse, Stirchley
April 1 is not spring

Not too long till the next Tap Room. Birmingham Brewing Company - manufacturers of any style of beer you like, usually pre-fixed with the word "Brummie" - is accessed through a blue door from the public footpath on the River Rea. Street food available from a van outside.

All it needed to make it worthwhile was punters. Two solo drinkers (me included) and a family whose dad's idea of a day out was inspired. Give the two kids a colouring book and spend the afternoon in a factory drinking beer at source. 

Birmingham Brewing Company
Wacky Warehouse next week kids.  I promise.

If I am honest, it all felt a bit "end of days". The three staff of the street food van were malingering on benches shouting "who will buy my dirty chips?" through the fencing at passing ramblers. The ceiling mounted industrial heater was both raising temperatures to that of a furnace and making more noise than a jet fighter. It must have been spinning the 'lecky meter faster than any profits that a 6.8% strong mild could generate. Especially when sold at a maximum volume of 2/3rds for a bargain £3.

Maybe I was too early. Maybe I needed a sunnier afternoon.

The booze venues start to cluster together, nearer the end. Two micros and one real pub. I balance them out.

Cork and Cage must have started out with the modus operandi of "lets not bother with internal decoration".  With its bare white tiled walls, it had the feel of an eviscerated butchers. Its not soft furnishings but the beer menu that brings all the boys to the yard. The table next to me had four freedom fighters against the teetotal Taliban pretending to enjoy green beer. Coloured like Kermit had been put in a blender.

Beer Menu at the Cork and Cage
Vault City are in Town

In contrast, the Wild Tap next door was all a bit British Legion does city centre cafe. Matching furniture, battleship grey walls, comfy bench seating. Oakham Citra bringing some normality back to the equation.

Wildcat Tap, Stirchley
My stash of 750ml Belgian Super Brews

Across the road is the British Oak. A grade II listed pub, built by Mitchells and Butlers back in 1926. Huge on the outside, you need to explore the inside. A smaller than expected front bar leads to many side rooms, dining areas and an outside patios. After all this beer choice, an absolutely perfect Timothy Taylor Landlord was my pint of the day :-)

British Oak, Stirchley
A fine traditional pub

This leaves Attic Brew Co, handily placed at opposite Bournville Station.  A former munitions factory, this had the ambiance to make it location of the day. Enter through a narrow gap in fencing that looks more at home in Winston Green and navigate to a drinking space on one side of the production area.

Long benches packed solid. Dog ownership appeared compulsory, as everyone seemed to have one. Street food where the vendors were busy. It reminded me very much of an earthier version of Deya's Cheltenham brewery.

Untapp'd confirms that I've never purchased their beers before but a very enjoyable Eye Know West Coast IPA means that I will be looking for them in the future.

Attic Brew Co, Stirchley
The time of day when this was my only photograph

After a fine days drinking and exploring, I head back for Kidderminster with the confidence to finally challenge the New Street Station staff as to why there is no visible signage for Moor Street Station.

The response - "There is - look it says this way for the Bull Ring".

Sunday, 26 March 2023

26/03/23 - Good Beer Guide Ticking - Bristol Harbour

Good Beer Guide Pubs - #807 to #811

Previous Bristol Pub Crawls - City Centre 1, City Centre 2

Discovering Bristol's Good Beer Guide Pubs around the floating harbour

Although I can never see myself ticking every pub in any one year of the Bible, I would settle on finishing Bristol. This is my third visit in the 2020's and although steady progress is being made, there's lots more to do.

A Geocaching trail meant I was completing a full circuit of the floating harbour (had to google, ensures the tidal River Avon maintains a constant height). And of course, the waterside is where the good pubs are - luring in thirsty sailors and the carnival that follows through the centuries.

First of the day - and it's unique for me - actually on the water. My untappd check in elicits several replies - I need to also go to Peterborough and Grimsby. The Grain Barge belongs to the Bristol Beer Factory although the friendly bar staff seemed unaware that they were in the book. Maybe some work to do on their marketing? To be fair, tickers would come regardless of advertising. Great views of river life, SS Great Britain in particular. The Independence was beer of the day. Found again later on the crawl, for confirmation.

Grain Barge, Bristol
All aboard the Grain Barge
Grain Barge, Bristol
Bristol Beer Factory Independence - Gorgeous 

All to nearby is the Merchants Arms. The other side of a road that busy, you could describe it as "motorway". Thankfully, a pedestrian crossing allows for safe passage.

This is a small but perfectly formed traditional pub, with an even split of punters - you either had a child in a pushchair or men transfixed by Bath vs Exeter egg-chasing on the TV. 

A specialist in South West Ales, I made a tit of myself by requesting a Cheddar Ales George Best.

Merchants Arms, Bristol
Safely across
Merchants Arms, Bristol
Pub Life - The beer was, of course, Gorge Best

South side, onto the Spike Island that is nothing to do with the Stone Roses. The Orchard Inn provided a clue with it's name. The real ales are gravity fed on a back wall, but the chalk board is full of 20 ciders and perries. I should have experimented but 6%-ers would put the geocaching in jeopardy. Another fine, traditional pub. Another BBF Independence. 

Orchard Inn, Bristol
Cider aplenty in the Orchard Inn

I timed entrance into the Golden Guinea perfectly. Shortly after ordering an Arbor Ales Shangri-La, the footfall increased significantly, when 30 sombrero wearing moustachioed pretend Mexicans came in. They weren't my sort of people when they didn't laugh at my "Tequila's all round" joke. I was reminded of my first tick in Bristol. The Bag O'Nails had a handwritten sign that simply said "No Idiot Stag Parties". 

I liked the wall-paper. I liked the chesterfield chairs. I liked the full size comedy venue downstairs.

Golden Guinea, Bristol
View from a Chesterfield

Boak and Bailey, experts in all things pub and Bristol, have recently been extolling the virtues of the Kings Head. Not in the Good Beer Guide, but I could have brought you a report as to why its not the "Whitelocks of the South". It was that crammed, I couldn't even get to open the door.

So onto the main reason I came back to Bristol. The Llandoger Trow. Who wouldn't want to visit a pub with its own wiki page? A striking, gabled timber box frame building from 1664 that has been extended through acquisition and reduced through the Luftwaffe. It shares an outside area of King Street with the Old Duke opposite, bringing a Continental drinking experience on the outside benches. But there are floors and floors of interior to explore too. I found ancient fire places, nooks and crannies and occasionally, whole rooms big enough for banquets that I could have to myself

Llandoger Trow, Bristol
Llandoger Trow at night

They bring Bristolians beers from all around the world.  27 (!) keg lines, with the finest Bavarian,  Czech and Cheltenham wares available to man. But there are also 3 cask hand-pulls. And one of those was TT Landlord.

Staring at the chalk board was futile. Old familiar, it was. Paint me boring.

Till next time, Bristol!

26/03/23 - The Anchor, Oldbury on Severn

 Pub Manifesto - A comedian stands up for pubs

Inspiration for today's walk came from a book. In 2018, Comedian James Dowdeswell lamented the decline of pubs, which were then closing at a rate of 18 a day. I cannot help but think we will be looking back on these times as the golden age. (Much) worse was to follow.

The Pub Manifesto
Inspiration for a walk

Using George Orwell's essay "the moon under water" he lists what he thinks makes a modern pub. His qualification?  His father is a publican and the book is a love letter to him. Michael Dowdeswell name is still above the door and in many ways, he seemed a visionary. Running a freehouse, so he would have control on the beers sold. From the signage, I would say he is a Bass fan. He also launched a range of whiskies from Gloucestershire - Sheep Dip and Pig's Nose. I saw no evidence of these for sale, but his son's beer - Lazy IPA - was spotted in cans behind the bar.

An entertaining read, emphasising the importance of the Local. Even one as remote as this has its stories. Steven Spielberg had a film idea pitched to him here. The inventor of Dr Who's K9 was a regular. 

Anchor Inn, Oldbury on Severn
Freehouse championing the Bass

The walk was a simple affair, head down Oldbury Pill to the Severn Estuary. Clamber up on the earth banks for an arrow straight walk downriver. Views of the Severn Bridge ahead, Oldbury power station behind.
Heading towards Severn Bridge
Heading down to Severn Bridge

Rushden Lane takes me in-land through Littleton-upon-Severn. A small village that still has its pub, the White Hart. Unusually for this area, a Youngs house.

A muddy slop-fest through the fields to Cowhill, with Oldbury's Church the beacon. Standing proudly on a rare bit of raised ground.

Coming back into Oldbury on Severn
Back into Oldbury-on-Severn

Post walk refreshment at the Anchor.... a decent selection of local ales and the last free table for a Sunday Lunch.  Like the full English, its the unexpected little extras that delight.  

Roast parsnips and cauliflower cheese. 

Anchor Inn, Oldbury on Severn
I went top right.  It must have been the external advertising

Walk Details

Walk Inspiration - 100 Walks in Somerset and Avon, Walk 81

Distance - 5.5 Miles

Geocaches - 6