Mappiman's Real Ale Walks: 09/07/24 - Abersoch to Porth Ceiriad

Tuesday, 9 July 2024

09/07/24 - Abersoch to Porth Ceiriad

All About St Tudwal

Abersoch. The Welsh Riviera. Where the Range Rovers outnumber the sheep. Playground of the North West of England Elite.

We head there on a grey July afternoon, the worst of the rain behind us but not especially conducive to walking.

The pub is called St Tudwal. The most interesting geological feature are the two islands of St Tudwal.

St. Tudwal, a 6th-century Celtic saint, was born into a noble family in Ceredigion, Wales, and dedicated his life to monasticism and missionary work. Renowned for establishing monastic communities in both Wales and Brittany, he significantly influenced the spread of Christianity. In Brittany, he founded a monastery in Tréguier and became one of the region's seven founding saints. Tudwal's legacy endures through the churches and communities named after him, and he is venerated for his piety and contributions to the Christian faith.

A steep, boring but mercifully crop free crossing of agricultural land takes us to Port Ceriad. Think Alex Garland's The Beach, with less sunshine. A remote yet perfect beach with only a lonely dog walker. We have options - crumbing cliffs or randy bulls.

We'll take our chances with the bovines

The remote Porth Ceiriad

A straightforward circuit of the headland, with the Islands constantly in view. West has a lighthouse. East has a cross. With binoculars, it's possible to make out the cross is a very odd Y Shaped. Online resources are limited but some wild campers did make it there after it was struck by lightening.

St Tudwal Islands - East and West

Cross upright again

Into Abersoch for a first visit. I saw online references stating it to be the prettiest village in Wales. Presumably by people who have never visited Aberdaron. We are in the dead zone of 3pm, where all the places that do food, don't do food. Kitchen's closed everywhere until 5pm. Only so much entertainment provided by shops like Fat Face and Weird Fish, so we do what we always do.

Head to the pub.

A rather plain and uninteresting Robinsons pub. The Unicorn beer is far too cold. The scratchings are far too hot. Thought those machines were condemned 20 years ago.