Shipwrecks and ghosts for the mainland's most southerly pubs
Kynance Cove - often the winner of most beautiful beach in Britain. Trust us to time it at high tide, when not an inch of sand can be seen. Good job we have been before.
We start at the Lizard, the remote road down emphasising the end of the world feel. It was our home from home in 2011 and I was keen to see what had changed. With both pubs still serving, I am pleased to report very little.
We head away from town to become the most southerly people on mainland Britain.
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| Arriving at the gates of the Lizard Lighthouse |
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| Soon down to the lifeboat station |
The walk takes us down to the lighthouse and through the National Trust's Pistell Meadows. The route notes rather overegging the ghostly backstory. Believe Country Walking Magazine, and 698 men of a 700 man crew are buried in a mass grave in the meadows. Dogs refuse to walk there and the cliffs are haunted by a shrivelled grey haired man.
A bit of research dispels the story somewhat. The National Trust completed an archaeological dig to look into 300 (not 700) casualties of the 1721 loss of the Royal Anne. They conclude;
...... it is felt that burials of the scale described in the accounts written over 120 years after the event would have been discovered during this work, leading us to conclude that the legend may have no basis in fact, being little more than romanticised invention. Accounts of the event changed with each re-telling.
No wonder Ivy the Guide Dog in training was as happy as Larry.
Even when we met the cows.
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| Like everything else in Cornwall, friendly |
The familiar sight of Asparagus Island (no asparagus) shows that we are close to the turning back point. The cafe at Kynance Cove cruelly out of reach by the high tide.
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| Time to turn back |
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| No direct route to the Cafe |
Sunken lanes inland to the Lizard providing a more direct route for refreshment.
We are booked in the Top House Inn for Sunday lunch and what an honour it is to be given "Lifeboat Corner".
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| Top House Inn, The Lizard |
I love a pub with stories. Our seat is directly below the bell from the stricken ship, Adolf Vinnen. Sunk on her maiden journey to Belfast in 1923, she was the last great sailing ship lost to this coastline. The 24 man crew rescued by the local lifeboat crew. The former landlord a collector of maritime memorabilia.
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| A breeches buoy rescue from the cliff tops |
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| Ship's Bell..... |
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| .... in Lifeboat Corner |
The roast dinner was better than a mediocre St Austell Proper Job.
Never mind, onwards to the Witch Ball. Fond memories of Betty Stoggs in the beer garden from many years previous. Googling Skinners led me to articles showing this C15th former farmhouse had closed down in Feb 2023. Succombing to the cost of living crisis and lack of staff availability.
Less heralded in the press was its sudden June '23 reopening.
This provides the casual pub tourist the chance to soak up the atmosphere. Log burners banishing the chills of resident ghosts - an unfortunate Spanish soldier from the Armada, washed up half dead and succumbing to his injuries in the 1588. The Witch Ball? An ornament hanging from the low ceilings to ward off evil spirits, dating from 1721.
Its still a proper pub, providing food with a very Jamaican feel. We may well return before the week is out. Remembering to duck down on entering the bar.
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| No Betty - but all the Sharp's on cask - a lesser spotted Sea Fury taken |
Walk Details
Distance - 4 miles
Geocaches - 2
Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine October 2004, Walk 3
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