18/02/17 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Chesterfield

After a first and very lively night out in this oddest of market towns, our cab driver asks us how we enjoyed out night in Che Vegas?

Here's the answer.

The Market Pub, 95 New Square, Timothy Taylor Landlord

The death of the Great British Pub is much exaggerated, on the evidence of this bustling town centre pub that is doing a roaring trade.

Planets have aligned.  I have chosen to come here because its in the Good Beer Guide.  Mrs Mappiman has used Trip Advisor to find the best pub food in town, to reward ourselves after a day on the hills.

Pub #1 in a new town - The Market Pub

The first pub can set the tone for the night.  And things do not get off to necessarily the greatest start.  I like a busy pub, but not when I have to fight my way to the bar.  Fortunately it is well manned and I am soon explaining we have a table booked and a delightful lady who calls me "laddie" explains the rules.

• Food must be ordered at the bar.  I feel another bustle coming on.
• Payment is cash only.
• Meals are selected from a menu that is the size of a duvet.  
• Haggis is available on all courses.

Drinks taken to a dining area next to a small open-plan preparation area (you can see through the door). Somehow, they are able to manage a table of 16, a table of 10 and us two out of towners from a kitchen sharing dimensions with a medium sized caravan.

And they do it perfectly.  The food is all freshly cooked and superb in both size and quality.  The beer is in fine fettle and I also try a Copper Dragon Golden Pippen - last seen in Yorkshire.

We have plenty of time to determine why they have got this so right.  It could be the largest collection of wine by the glass in Chesterfield.  It could be the theme nights - and I am slightly disappointed that I won't be around for the £40 per head Irish Whiskey tasting evening.  Its probably the honest fayre served at reasonable prices.

The View from near the Kitchen

The Royal Oak, 1 the Shambles, Wellbeck Abbey Portland Black

We head out into the night, taking in the size of the Market and make our way towards the famous twisted spire, outshining even Cleobury Mortimer's architectural cock up.

The chance of a Geocache sends us into the Medieval part of town and signs that simply cannot be ignored by any self respecting beer tourist.

Search for the Holy Grail

We're suckers for Timber Framed Ancient Pubs

The chance to sup in a C12th building was never going to be passed by.  We find a door and enter into the smallest bar in the world.  No chance of a seat.  Limited chance of getting to the bar.  Despite the protestations of the locals ("don't leave, the company's better in here") we determine we can exit, and re-enter through another door, into a much larger bar.

A choice of three real ales on - I leave Mrs Mappiman to get the round, whilst I have a second, futile attempt at the Geocache.

Eventually, having been muggled by a collection of elderly painted ladies on the prowl in inappropriate (for age and girth) clothing, I abandon hunting for treasure to concentrate on connecting with the past.

I admire the medieval drawings and ancient pictures, enjoying my porter, thinking of the people that have passed through the doors over the ages and what their stories would have been.

We don't stay for long.  Mrs Mappiman says it "smells fusty"

Porter and Rose

The White Swan, St Marys Gate, Wolds Way

The Spire guides us to the next Good Beer Guide Pub, fighting our way through the masses.  A couple of photos of the church before we find the White Swan, a RAW brewing tied house (don't know them) and re-assuringly known as the Mucky Duck.

Wonkiness captured

This is my 121st tick in the 2017 GBG.  Its also the first GBG Pub to have bouncers on the door.  Presumably, CAMRA discounts have been asked for with an out of date membership card.

Proof that entry into the guide is not down to architecture or ambiance but simply down to the quality of the beer on offer.

And there's plenty to choose from here.

I counted them out and I counted them back in - 12

Mrs Mappiman gets into the spirit of things by questioning how a boozer can ensure the quality of the ale with such a large choice and presumably not achieving the required turnover to ensure freshness.

I'm so taking her to the next Wyre Forest CAMRA meeting.

The Rutland, 23 Stephenson Place, Otter Ale

The Taxi rank location established (Pub Ticking Training - never get into somewhere, without knowing how you are getting out), we walk around the heart of the town's social scene.

A young lady tries to lure us into Waikiki Beach Bar with the lure of free shots.  I'm on my way before I'm reminded that a) I am old enough to be the grandfather of the Waikiki Bar regulars and b) we have one more GBG to knock off.

Close up of the door shows it in its best light

It looks well lived in from the outside and is going to need a lick of emulsion if its going to compete with the alternative hostelries available nearby.  Or give out free samples of Thackeray's Old Dangleberry Ale in the street.

Fortunately, it saves the glamour for the inside.  Large bar with 8 real ales on and all Malt whiskys are £4.25 for a double.

An Otter Ale round off a surprisingly livelier than anticipated evening.

Che Vegas indeed.

Otter.  Table decoration there on arrival