25/11/23 - South Staffordshire Railway Walk for the Round Oak, Wombourne

 Should have taken the loss of Cask Marque Status as a warning

The first Winter Walk of the season and this starts off so well. Easy parking at Bratch bridge, where you can choose from a canal or disused railway line, with a cafe. We are walking both transport modes, so either will do.

Heading North, the South Staffordshire Railway walk shares its disused rail bed with the Monarch's Way. Unsure if Charles I used locomotion to flee the roundheads, but from a walking perspective its a joy. For humans, firm, mud free paths. For dogs, fallen leaves for new smells and plenty of canine company.

Railway Cafe at the Bratch 

Beware the Wolves, Guide Dog in Training Ivy

The South Staffordshire Railway Walk is an 11-mile (17.7 km) trail that follows the former route of the Wolverhampton to Dudley railway line. It is a popular destination for walkers, cyclists, and nature enthusiasts, offering a unique blend of historical charm and natural beauty.

The story of the South Staffordshire Railway Walk begins in the late 19th century, when the Great Western Railway Company envisioned a thriving rail connection between Wolverhampton and Dudley. The railway's construction commenced in 1882, and by 1884, the line was officially operational, breathing life into the region's transportation network.

As the 20th century unfolded, the transportation landscape underwent a significant transformation. The rise of automobiles and the decline of the coal industry posed challenges to the railway's viability. In 1964, the Beeching Axe, a government initiative aimed at streamlining Britain's railways, sealed the fate of the South Staffordshire Railway. Passenger services ceased in 1964, followed by freight services in 1968, marking the end of an era.

Starting Point: Aldersley Stadium, Wolverhampton

Ending Point: Himley Station, Himley

We leave the line at Lower Penn for a short bit of countryside and picking up our second historical mode of transport, the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal. The towpath is firm but narrow. We are concerned, unnecessarily, that Ivy will be taking an early bath.

From rail to canal

...a 46-mile (74 km) waterway that winds its way through the heart of England's West Midlands region. This historic canal, completed in 1772, played a pivotal role in the Industrial Revolution, facilitating the transportation of goods and fostering economic growth.

Starting Point: Great Haywood

Ending Point: Stourport on Severn

In hindsight, we should never have left the canal. Our route recommends leaving at Awbridge Bridge and heading into Trysull - an ancient Staffordshire Village. Mainly to visit the Plough. I follow the route to the letter but ignore the pub, having found one closer to end.

Trysull Church in the Sunshine

Let me count the ways this was a mistake.

Our crisp Winter's day walk has left the three of us mudfree. How ironic that the temperatures have rose enough to unfreeze the slurry through Woodford Grange. By the time we have slopped through the fields, we are filthier than the cows that have ruined us.

We can just about get away with visiting my selected pub.

No date under the Cask Marque Sign shows a "lapsed pub"

In keeping with out walk theme, this is a pub whose history is intertwined with the canal. Formerly known as the Boat Inn, this C18th pub originally served the canal trade. Its now a Marston's pub, trading on family food - although their web site suggests themed nights. Monday for Poker, Thursday for cocktails.

If I hadn't had such a convoluted conversation about whether the fishfingers were breaded or battered, I would have surely taken my Enville Ale back. Mrs M's inquiry already had me down as "problem punter".

This is why cask ale sales will fail. Untrusted venues serve bilge like this.

Bubble clinging to a dirty glass.  Enville Ale does not look like this

As the food was OK, good value and quickly severed,I think we are even.  

Looking behind us on leaving, they would have needed to get the dustpan and brush out.

18/11/23 - Good Beer Guide Ticking in Halifax, West Yorkshire

 Never have so many beers been available

5 Good Beer Guide Ticks on offer in the centre of Halifax. 4, that you could class as "Micro", with beer boards anything but. With just the one traditional pub making the book, it made for a very modern pub crawl.

Kobenhavn, West Gate

The 11am opener, so an obvious starting place. Wealdstone are in town and I become an honoury fan, following ever increasing groups of men who must have the same idea for their pre-match entertainment.

Scandi Style

I make the mistake of looking at the pumps for inspiration. I should have spent longer with the beer board. Vocation's Yorkshire Bitter on cask an eponymous start to the day.

I honestly could have spent most of the day here, but tore myself away after a 1/3 of Sierra Nevada Celebration. I was going to have a 1/3rd Deya Steady Rolling Strata but it hand been replaced with Steady Rolling Man. The barman told me you can't tell the difference. Deya summarised in a sentence. 

Deya and Kernal would have been 3rd and 4th Choices

Meandering Bear, Union Street

Having been introduced to my first Scandinavian bar, I have another first. My first bar named after an escaped zoo animal. A poem on the wall tells the story of the 90 minutes of ursine freedom around the town.

Meandering Bear

Timed this one just right, ordering a Wharfdale Best just as the numbers swell with another contingent of Wealdstone fans. Of course, I looked for the Raider.

Dukes, Market Arcade

A shop conversion in a shopping centre but all very tastefully done. A fine place to people watch with a Rivington Bounced Right Back.

Come on in, shoppers

A nice range of Belgian Beers. In preparation for the eventual train delays on my way home, I purchased a St Bernardus Xmas Ale.  Alas, the trains were that packed I couldn't get to my rucksack to enjoy it.

Victorian Craft Beer Cafe, Powell Street

A Beer Cafe

9 Cask and 18 Keg.  Time is needed to fully complete the beer board and I make two mistakes.  As usual, I end up ordering the first on the list. There was nothing wrong with my Budvar Dark but it was a panic decision, having been bewildered by choice.

Options, options, options

Taking advantage of power points, I make the mistake of sitting under the said menu. Paranoia creeps in, as every person entering spends 10 minutes trying to work out what to order, staring straight at me. Cricked neck from ducking down.

The Three Pigeons, Sun Fold

Proper looking pub

After all these micros with macro lists, it was nice to have a classic for my final tick.  AI provides the history.

The site of the Three Pigeons was previously occupied by an older pub, which was demolished in the late 1920s to make way for a new building. The current pub was designed by local architects Jackson & Fox and opened in 1932.

The Three Pigeons is a fine example of Art Deco architecture. The interior features a number of distinctive Art Deco elements, including:

• An octagonal drinking lobby
• Geometric patterns and motifs
• Streamlined furniture and fittings
• Stained glass windows
• Chrome and glass fixtures

Not sure all of these facts are true, but who am I to argue with Google.

It was packed with football fans, and must be in the direction of the ground as it emptied out at 2:45.

Interior photo opportunities were rare but I have tried to bring you the famous octagonal lobby.

Lobby action

An Ossett Brewery house, I explored the multiple rooms carrying my Silver King American Pale.

A decent afternoon's work and Happyflax is certainly the place to go if you want access to the world of currently hyped beers.

You are bound to find what you are looking for in one of them.

17/11/23 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 8

Ancient paths, wild moorland and £5 pints in Oldham 

I asked AI to provide a summary of this stage of Greater Manchester's boundary path;

Stage 8 of the GM Ringway is a 12.5-mile (20.1 km) hike that starts in Broadbottom, a small village in the Metropolitan Borough of Tameside, and finishes in Greenfield, a town in the Metropolitan Borough of Oldham. The stage is challenging in parts, with some steep climbs and descents, but the rewards are well worth the effort, and the views from the top of the moors are truly unforgettable.

Not bad..... this is a proper walk - the first half on ancient paths, with names on the OS Map like Hague Road and Coach Road. Ahead, you can see what awaits.

In the far distance, the Arnfield Moors

Hollingworth is the last place to bail out for civilisation. Should you press on, you are in wild moorland country of crashed aeroplanes and vague paths. You see no one. Anything goes wrong and you are on your own. Look behind, and you get the occasional glimpse of the Manchester skyscrapers. The city looks alien. Alas, it was directly into the sun, so photos were hopeless but will stay in my memory

Looking away from the Sun on Arnfield Moor

There is a "diversion" that runs for 1/2 mile to Chew Reservoir, only to immediately double back. On plotting, I thought this is because the walk designers really wanted you to see the body of water. On arrival, there is no choice - its a high ridge path over the waterfalls, with the exit - the access road - far below. Stunning walking.

Chew Hurdles - with Chew Road feint on the RHS

Chew reservoir - seen one, seen them all

The access road is picked up, forever downwards and becoming the Oldham Way.

My destination - Greenfield. Home of two Good Beer Guide Pubs;

The Wellington is a solid enough locals pub.... a handful of pensioner diners in one room and locals hovering around the bar, outdoing each other with infectious but cheesy jokes. I should take notes, there was a cracking one about a pirate with the punchline "cause they arrrrrrrrr".

The End of Terrace Wellington

Most of the cask was from Millstone brewery. Their pump clips offer no clue as to what the style of each beer is. Asking about Tiger Rut was met with "Bitter".

Takes too much time to use Untappd at the bar

It was a Golden Ale and exceptionally cold.

Next to the station is the imaginatively named The Railway 

You can see the trains pulling up.  Usually delayed

A choice of doors take you to different rooms over a central oval bar. I work my way through the handpumps before deciding on an Ossett White Rat.

Three things happen.

1) I notice this is a serious beer pub from the the extensive beer list on a wall next to the bar.

2) I am surprised that pints of standard cask are £5. In Oldham.

3) The delayed train to Manchester I can see pulling out the station is the last for 1 hour.

I'll have to stay for a second and worry about end of month finances later. I want to know whether they have comments on their pricing policy and consider how I can ask politely without coming across as an idiot.

I decide my starting my conversion by asking if they all the beers on the board available. I am assured they are.

Boltmaker? is met with "Apart from that one".  

Landlord? is met with the same response.

Another White Rat for a fiver it is and I'll have to use Twitter to see if £5 pints are now the norm.

£4.75 worth of White Rat.  I'd had a sip for quality purposes

I make this last until 10 minutes before my advertised train comes in.

It's delayed, but enough time to join the resistance.

Seems fair

Walk Information

Start - Broadbottom

Finish - Greenfield

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7

Distance - 12.5 Miles

Geocaches - 3

Good Beer Guide Tick - #917 and #918

Walk Inspiration

16/11/23 - Manchester Tap to Tap, via Gullivers and Bar Fringe

 Every City should have one

I didn't necessarily need it but I was always going to buy it.

With both kids having attended Manchester Universities, I have had a decade of travelling up the M6. It will be a great road when it is finished. Human deliveries and collections have always involved overnight stops. There's a room in Deansgate Premier Inn that could be renamed the Mappiman Suite.  

The classic boozers have been ticked. Often many times. Still, I'm always open to new suggestions and to supplement my ever increasing "Want To Go" list in Google Maps, I now have this guide to 200 must visit pubs, bars and tap rooms.

It's beautiful looking inside - like all the Camra Books - and I'm particularly looking forward to using some of the pub crawls beer trails recommended in the suburbs. The book will come into its own when I go "Up the A6", around Chorlton, Salford, Bolton and Rochdale.

Today, a quick test as I make my way from Piccadilly to Victoria, to catch my train connection.

I'm using the guide to visit previously unexplored places.

Piccadilly Tap, Station Approach

This has been dipping in and out of the Good Beer Guide since I started ticking. It's back in the 2024 edition, so I avoid my natural instinct to keep moving when in Piccadilly.

View from the outdoor terrace of the Picadilly Tap

Matthew says - "An ideal starting (or stopping) point to a day on the beers in Central Manchester".

Very much a "train bar", where you can instantly feel the transient nature of the punters. This is no ones local. A massive beer board takes a while to digest and over the course of this long weekend in various bars of the North, I never seem to get past #1 on the list.

This time a Rothaus Pils, rather disappointingly served in a standard, non branded pint glass.

Heading upstairs to the balcony was a good shout. A fine place to act like Bacchus and watch the chaos of mere mortals during rush hour below.

I'm still not sure what next door are selling.

    

Gullivers, Oldham Street

Either the bar, my table, or myself was on the wonk.  Probably me.

Matthew says - "One of the more characterful establishments in the JW Lees estate".

No issues with an overwhelming beer list here. It's bitter all the way.

I'm always making a bee-line for the Castle Hotel opposite when in Oldham Street - mainly for the jukebox and the chance to make new friends at the always packed bar. 

I'm sure someone in the Castle told me this was owned by the same people. Certainly has the same vibe - a traditional pub, with a NQ crowd that also has regular live music. I'm in town this weekend for live music - BC Camplight at the Albert Hall. I really should have stayed till Saturday, as impossibly, Freya Beer is playing at the Castle. Surely too big an artist to still have tickets left at a 90 person capacity venue.

Back to Gullivers - certainly quieter than the Castle, and I would be tempted to return, if I really fancied a nice sit down.

Bar Fringe, Swan Street

Matthew Says - "Bar Fringe combines a touch of continental Belgium with some typical Manchester swagger"

This is a real find and one I will be coming back to frequently. Matthew cannot take the recommendation credit, as one of my favourite friends in the Twitterverse, Deltrems, had already raised awareness.

In fact, back in August, I dragged my wife, daughter and potential son-in-law in. They proclaimed it a "bit stinky" and didn't want to stop. To be fair, it was absolutely packed but the lack of support from the son-in-law highlighted a need to reconsider the dowry.

Today, I am flying solo and no-one can hold me back. 

Much more crowded on my last visit

I failed to notice any beer board or menus, and on blogging and re-reading the guide, I cannot help but think I missed out on sampling something far more exotic.

I mainly looked to the fridge and in a panic to order, asked for a bottle of Delirium Tremens.

The bar-lady, who sounded exactly how I imagine Shaun Ryder's mom to sound, said "would I prefer it on draught?".  Both red and and blue versions available.

I'm unsure what possessed me to ask what measures they serve it in but when she said "Whatever size you like love", I shouldn't have said "pint".

God damn my lizard brain.  A) I have still got to use Google Maps to find Victoria Station and B) I'm surprised I haven't had to explain the £12.40 transaction on our joint account.

I'd like to say I won't make that "mistake" again. But I will.

This could be my new Manchester "local". Just don't tell all my other Manchester "locals".

Victoria Tap, Station Approach

Sister pub to the Piccadilly Tap - some nice symmetry to my crawl

Matthew Says - "Announced as far back as 2020, its taken a long time to come to fruition"

Hats off to the guide for being so up-to-date. Both this and Westward Ho! make the guide, despite possibly not being actually open when going to press.

This is a tiny bar, although on my next visit, I will take the guide's advice and explore the beer garden.

You can see the board but they do improve on the experience in their sister pub.

Schneider's Helles in ceremonial chalice 

I can offer some additional advice - a warning.  Although trains run till at least midnight, this places shuts at 11pm. Bang on 11pm.  Just like they used to in London.

A fine start to a new ticklist..... 4 down, 196-ish to go.

12/11/23 - The White Hart, Hartlebury

 The Wheel of Fortune leads to the familiar

New book klaxon.

Charity Find in Evesham

The guidebook tantalises with its promise of day trips to the counties it covers, detailing a variety of entertainment options. While pubs are a mainstay, there are also restaurants and National Trust properties, complete with cake selling cafes. Everything you need for a fine day out.

I decide to embrace the element of surprise and let chance guide me. Throwing caution to the wind and using randomness to choose my destination. An on-line random number generator is chosen, the book's page numbers programmed and the wheel of fortune activated. Around and around it goes and where it stops, nobody knows. Until it lands on 107.

Hartlebury.

As the crow flies, 2 miles from where I am sat.

I vow to look at it through tourist's eyes.

A suitable walk is found that ventures near all three places mentioned;

St James Church - sandstone built and I pick the one Sunday in three when there is a service. I am unable to investigate the ancient episcopal throne and the partly Norman font.  Like all good villages, the pub adjacent.

Remembrance Day 

Hartlebury Castle - fortified by Simon De Montford in the C13th and former home to the Bishops of Worcester. Visited by Elizabeth I. Used for captured Royalists in the English Civil War. A tree lined avenue leads to the entrance, but for good photos, you need to pay the entry fee. Or lift one from the Internet.

Me going for a peek

What you'd see if you pay £13.25

My walk takes me over the back of Hartlebury Common. A place explored since childhood but my guides do deliver new knowledge. The only acid bogs in Worcestershire. Fine place for walking and despite the trees turning autumnal, the photos are largely dull.

The White Hart. My guidebook from 1995 has the details and it shows that I need to work on my game if I want to make this blog more professional.  

I don't think I will ever be able to give a rump steak baguette such descriptive justice. Or get excited at the delights of lemon brulee.

Travel writing from the 90s

It's a pub that I have used many times, so I know that I can expect Timothy Taylor Landlord in a traditional country pub. No Brew XI, Banks Mild or Bass any more.

I had heard rumours that it has been recently taken over. A skip in the car park really should have rendered the walk to the door unnecessary.

Could be worse, could be dead.  Revisit required after the grand reopening

To the cafe at Hartlebury Castle. At least I have something else to moan about the cost of. An Americano and a tiny flapjack. 

£5.50.

Walk Details

Distance - 3 miles

Geocaches - 2

Walk Inspiration - Short Walks from Worcestershire Pubs

05/11/23 - Centenary Way - Stage 22 - Edgehill

 Gauging the impact of inflation on hospitality

4.5 years (and 2 guide dog puppies) since we last visited the Castle Inn, Edgehill. A wonderful location, great Hook Norton beer and a beautiful Sunday lunch that has gone down in legend - both in terms of quality and cost.

I do understand that you get what you pay for.

In a rare perfect walk for a disappointing Long Distance Path, the Centenary Way delivers me back to this location. No tables available through on-line booking but when the name of this pub blog is relayed over the phone, they say they can fit us (Man, Woman, Guide Dog) in a little alcove by the bar. A chance to see how bad inflation has been. We remember exactly how much we paid last time :-)

Our Pub for Today - The Castle at Edgehill

The building created 100 years after the first battle of the English Civil War - no winners, no losers, apart from the loss of 1500 men in 1642. Converted into an inn in 1822, almost on the exact spot where Charles I setup his headquarters.

The walk starts directly from the pub and heads SW through woodland, following the escarpment, where the battle raged on the plains below. There are occasional views through the tress but at the are marked "Edgehill Covert" on the map, the views open out.  All of Warwickshire below.

Guide Dog in Training Ivy loving a free run through the woods

It's a beautiful day

Finally getting Ivy to pose

Agricultural fields, past Upton House. Surprisingly mud free after the record rainfalls but Mrs M still finds the opportunity to curse. She wants me to write an email to Home Farm to thank them for their diversion away from the farmyard but to request dog friendly stiles.

I had noticed the Rose and Crown at Ratley on the previous leg of the Centenary Way and planned to visit today. Timed to perfect for when its open but too late to get back to the castle on time for our booked table. 

Mrs M not wanting to run the risk of our table being given away.

On plotting my routes - Google Maps says "Temporarily Closed". The web site confirms, adding "Due to unforeseen circumstances". Facebook claims power outages on Oct 11th but that doesnt sound enough for long term closure. Blimey, I love a pub mystery but I cannot bring you anymore information. 

We are bang on time for the Castle and have a tiny table in an alcove that we can just about squeeze the three of us in.

The food is as good as we remembered. 

Inflation over the last 4.5 years is running at 23.5%. Previously, we were forced to share a pudding. This time we decided to make a crumble when we got home.

Walk Information

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Pub - The Castle, Edgehill

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18, Stage 19, Stage 20, Stage 21

04/11/23 - A Random Birmingham Pub Crawl

 Using Google AI to create a pubby adventure

A rainy day in Birmingham, too wet for a proper walk. All the Good Beer Guide Pubs in the City ticked. A relatively rare 3pm Baggies Kick Off.

How shall I waste the late morning/early afternoon?

Bard AI put to the test.

Please plot a 4 pub crawl starting at Birmingham Snow Hill Station?

The results better than expected. I get recommendations for two previously unvisited pubs, one that has just re-enterted the Good Beer Guide and yes, I cheated with the 4th. Sorry Sun on the Hill, you are getting swapped over. 

The tool reports back a summary map, route directions between stages and a little overview of each recommendation. Then it wishes me a great time. I could be worried about my hobbies as well as my career are being replaced by technology but someone has actually got to go and visit them to report back the truth.

The Royal, Church Street

A 10am opener - and by the time I burst through the door 75 minutes later, there's already a small group of other Baggies fans. Breakfasting like gods. On Guinness and Madri.

Corner Pub

This is an ornate Victorian Corner pub. Smart in a hotel bar kind of way. Leaded windows and some rather comfy faux Chesterfield wingback chairs.

No cask. And the Guinness was colder than most slush puppies.

Took me a while to battle through

The Old Contemptibles, Edmund Street

A handy sign to tell the nomenclature

In many ways, a sister pub to the Royal - another corner pub, sharing the same external architecture. I've got the Pevsner guide to the City and one day I will read it.

The OC's

This Nicholson pub has just re-entered the Good Beer Guide. I can see why, with some very interesting cask on offer. I missed out on a Red Ale by choosing a Northern Monk too quickly.  

I move to the furthest extremity, to take in the decor and evaluate other punters that come through the door. A lot of away fans from Hull. This pub ticking is taking off, as groups of men tour the country finding the finest pubs available. 

Eyes peeled for "you know who" and "you know who's Dad".

Fine Ceiling... Chandeliers... Handsome

I think I may become a more frequent visitor here.... even closer to the station home than my usual Old Joint Stock. But I may miss the ESB.

The Bull, Price Street

The new looms over the old

My replacement for the Sun on the Hill. I've been before but wanted to give this GBG regular a second chance. Mainly to see if anyone was actually using it at lunch time.

Alas, no. 

One elderly chap that in the 30 minutes I demolished my Old Hooky with quavers chaser, did not touch his pint once. At one point, I was convinced I had entered a museum and he was a Madame Tussaud style exhibit. With little else to do other than sing along to 70s pop and count jugs, I kept a close eye for movement.

Looking for life in the Bull

I was correct to keep an eye out and Simon visited post match. Sounds like the atmosphere builds after dark, but we had a quite similar experience.

Bull, Birmingham. Re-visit and an absolute tonic after a day which has been painful in every way. Thankfully, a proper pub atmosphere, Oakham Citra and bacon fries make everything ok. Bit of ABBA too for the win! pic.twitter.com/s8BLeQHPum

— Si BRAPA Everitt (@StymieSi) November 4, 2023

I need tips on how they got from the Hawthorns so quickly! 

Queens Head, Steelhouse Lane

To prove that AI is not infallible, its final recommendation was the Jekyll and Hyde. I'd never heard of it, despite Birmingham being my home City.

A bit of internet sleuthing and I discovered its now a Davenports pub and renamed the Queens Head.

Al Fresco in Brum

Immaculately neat inside, a fine line in pies and friendly staff. Davenports Gold served in dimpled jugs. Is it wrong that this was my first ever Davenports?  

Notable mainly for being one of the few remaining Cask Marque QR scans available to me in Birmingham.  I move ever closer to my next prize. Either a beanie hat now or another 297 scans for a navy blue fleece.