12/05/17 - Inn Way to Lake District - Day 4 - Buttermere to Boot

Start - Buttermere
End - Boot
Distance - 12.2 Miles
Key Features - Black Sail YHA and Wasdale Head Inn
Geocaches - 3
Pubs - 4 (16 In Total)
Previous Legs - Day 1, Day 2, Day 3

A harder day on the Inn Way, with three ascents but no complaints from me - two bucket list items were ticked off.

The day started in the expensive posh Bridge Hotel, Buttermere - where in a foolhardy attempt at sophistication, I selected the Eggs Benedict.  I'm back on the sausages tomorrow.

You could not ask for a finer start to a day's walking, heading between the gap of Crummock and Buttermere and walking a good mile along the lake shore.

Good Morning Mappiman

The easy stuff is soon over and its a not a question of whether I'll need to climb but how tough its going to be.   Scarth Gap Pass is a bit of a lung burster but definitely the easiest way out of the valley.

Climbing out of the Valley

Ultimately, this leads to Black Sail Youth Hostel.  A bucket item list that I have been reading about for a long time and always wanted to visit.  This former shepherds hut is only accessible by walking or cycling and 10 miles from the nearest shops.

Black Sail YHA at the end of Ennerdale

As I pass, the young custodians are cleaning the windows.   A cup of tea is offered (£1 in the honesty box) and we get into a long chat about how they came to run the place and who comes to stay.  They are on an 18 month secondment and appear to be loving it, even after I have asked if they have ever seen the Shining.

I ask them if they know of the nearby Geocache.  And get this.  Despite the fella being a Geocacher, he had no idea there is one on his doorstep.  And entertainment options somewhat limited to domestic cleaning.

Lovely, friendly couple and I'll add a bucket list item to stay the night in the future.

Mappiman putting the kettle on in the Black Sail YHA

Limited Entertainment Options (geocaching aside) but these views.

A good 30 minutes spent relaxing in extraordinary surroundings and I am off again, for the day's second climb up and over Black Sail Pass.

Peaking Black Sail Pass

It's a long, steady descent to the second bucket list item of the day - the Wasdale Head Inn.   A picture postcard perfect example of a lonely Lake District Inn.

Pub 13 - Wasdale Head Inn, Wasdale Gold

I've been out for a while, in the signal less wilderness and I am hoping for a check in.  Amongst the many amusing signs is this gem, that tells me its not going to happen.

I want to talk to my Wife 

The beer is fine and with the Eggs Benedict not really having cut it, this is the only place of the week where more than a liquid lunch is taken.

Classic Wasdale Head Inn View

Up comes ascent number three of the day and I hope and prey Mark Reid is not going to get all macho on us.  Signage was a touch worrying for a moment.

I don't want to climb anything with Massif in the title after two pints and a Tuna Sarnie

Instead, we have the 1st section of the Inn Way which you couldn't describe as "Hollywood Walking".  Burnmoor is bleak, featurless and a trudge that eventually rewards you with Boot, a delightful three pub village.

Burnmoor Tarn - about the only thing on the moor to navigate by

Boot somewhere below, in the murk.

Pub 14 - The Boot Inn, Boot, Hartley's Cumbria Way

My Home for the Night

This is providing food, drink and lodging for me tonight and its a fine old pub... Perfect for my needs. Every patron is a rambler, including a group of about 10 lads out celebrating one of their 40th Birthdays.

Its Friday night and all that stands between Chelsea winning the title is my team, West Brom.  I determine that the Woolpack has the football on a big screen, but I'm not chancing another two miles walking with definite confirmation.  My home based support team provide proof, so I head out - with just enough time to check out the Brook House Inn.

Pub 15 - Brook House Inn, Boot, Yates Gold

Pub 2 in Boot

15 Pubs in and I find the first one proudly displaying the Inn Way sign.  On the Inn Way to Yorkshire Dales trip last year, every pub had a sign and most had the little clipper to mark your book.  It would appear as though the Inn Way to the Lake District is getting lost over time.

Don't worry - I'll keep banging on about it.

15 Pubs down and the 1st Sign

Excellent beer in this pub but really, I should have had a whisky.  They have 165 different types, a full menu to choose from and I really did think about trying to squeeze in the £15 4 Taster Premium Selection Pack.

I'll come back if the Albion win.

Pub 16 - The Woolpack, Boot, Bowness Brewery Hardknot 2

My 1 mile commute to the footie

The Woolpack

Its the entertainment hub of the village.   Huge screen TV projecting the football in silence, decent music played at the right level to create an atmosphere and plenty of ramblers enjoying the stone oven baked pizzas.

I get prime spot on a two seater chesterfield in front of the screen to watch the Baggies put up a brave fight but ultimately have to endure Cockney's having a right old knees up on my manor.

A lonely walk of shame in the dark, having lost 1-0.

No celebration whisky for me.