13/05/17 - Inn Way to Lake District - Day 5 - Boot to Broughton In Furness

Start - Boot
End - Broughton In Furness
Distance -  13.7 Miles
Key Features -  Dunnerdale Forest and Fells
Geocaches - 1
Pubs - 5 (21 In Total)
Previous Legs - Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4

Day 5 of the Inn Way to the Lake District and for the first time, the wet weather gear needs to be unpacked.   The best breakfast of the week (Boot Inn) is shared in a conservatory, where the rain hammers down on the roof and the wind rattles through the windows.

Fortunately, its a easy day's walking and I have the added incentive of company.  Gavin joins me tonight after a rail journey almost as epic as my 5 days walking.

Out into the elements and the River Esk is picked up at a remote church, St Katherines.

Remote St Katherines

The Esk is followed to Doctor Bridge (functional architecture, not a person) and a grim climb on featureless common ground where the path keeps disappearing under Harter Fell.

Morning Grimness on the Inn Way

The Dunnerdale Forest provides a change to walking conditions but there is little to remember this morning's walking by.   I need a pub to break up the monotony.

Dunnerdale Forest

Pub 17 - Newfield Inn, Seathwaite, Elder Gold

Winner of both the cheapest pint (£3) and possibly the most remote pub on the Inn Way, although the Wasdale Head may contest that claim.   The sun has come out, so I get a convoluted process of de-goretexing in their tiny front porch.

All that can come off at the Newfield Inn

A handful of rambler punters and I sit at the bar, thinking the Buttermere Beauty is not all that.

Four Pinter?

It's a quick pint and out into the sporadic sunshine to cross the Dunnerdale Fells.  Only thing of real interest is that at one point I can see the sea and we are not too far from pub 2 of the day.

Sea in the Distance

Pub 18 - The Blacksmiths Arms, Broughton Mills, Foxfields Lickle Pale

Blacksmiths Arms, Broughton Mills....

.... Since 1748

Winner of best pub chat on the Inn Way, without a doubt.   I walk in, the fire is roaring and there are three people.  Mr Farmer, Mrs Farmer and the barman.   Recommendations are made as to which ale to choose and it transpires that the barman here is also the Foxfields brewer - made at the Prince of Wales, Foxfield.  This is near the train station where Gavin has arrived and he has been trying to lure me to meet him.  The thought of an extra couple of miles is making this a most unlikely scenario.

Mr Farmer, recognising my Midlands accent asks where I am from in distinct Brummie tones.   Transpires he is from Hall Green, Birmingham.   Despite me working out the price of a cow (£1200, on average) from him, I never quite get to understand how he came to be farming in the Lakes.

A 2nd Farmer comes in and they are in for a session.  I think how easy this farming must be if you can spend the afternoon in a pub, before realising it is Saturday.

Mrs Farmer leaves but not without offering me a lift into Broughton In Furness.   I was tempted, but I would have only been cheating myself.  Besides, what would Gavin have said if he saw me approaching in a Land Rover.

It's less than a couple of miles into Broughton itself, all low level, with the only hazard a field of frisky grand a pop Frisians.

The High Cross Inn on the entrance to Broughton gains notoriety as the first and only dead pub on the Inn Way.   Its all closed up and inquires show its reopening as a cafe.

Inn Way to the Lake District - Now 43 Pubs and a soon to open Cafe

Pub 19 - The Black Cock Inn, Broughton In Furness, Moorhouses Pendle Witches Brew

Of course, on pre-walk planning, there was much hilarity at the name of tonights lodgings.  Gavin convinced me he was going to ask the first person he saw at Foxfields Station, "How far is the Black Cock Inn?"

The Black Cock Inn

Its the entertainment hub of the town, containing pool table, fine food and for one night only, live music by the Sad Eyed Puffins.   They're on from 9:30pm till midnight and we get to see their unique brand of agit-pop on our return from checking out the other pubs.   Indian headdress five piece doing a funk out to a song about "No More Pylons".

Pub 20 - The Old Kings Head, Broughton In Furness, Keswick Gold

We went for the tick, spotting it for what it was.... a rather posh gastro pub.  There was a small drinking area to one side of the pub, so we didn't appear too incongruous.  We stayed for as long as the Keswick Gold lasted.

Old Kings Head Gastro Pub

Pub 21 - The Manor Arms, Broughton In Furness, Yates Bitter

The Manor Arms - Drinkers Pub for Drinkers

The opposite end of the sale to the Old Kings Head.   This is a delightful drinkers pub, fully worthy of its entry in the Good Beer Guide.  This photo tells you all you need to know.

Classic Pub Furntiture and Camra awards galore

Great beer, great pub.

We head back to the Black Cock Inn to feel the full force of the Sad Eyed Puffins.  The lack of stage meant we were rather close to the band and after five pubs, I'd have been tempted to grab the maracas and join in, Bez Style.

We decide to retire to our room and listen through the floorboards.