11/05/17 - Inn Way to Lake District - Day 3 - Braithwaite to Buttermere

Start - Braithwaite
End - Buttermere
Distance - 11.6 Miles
Key Features - Ascent of Coledale Hause, Crummock Water
Geocaches - 1
Pubs - 3 (12 In Total)
Previous Legs - Day 1, Day 2


Day 3 on the Inn Way and for my money, the best.

Twitter announces that I have a tough climb up to Coledale Hause but the views are making me feel invincible.

Morning Work - To get up and over that

Companion wise, I am overtaken by a student on a bike with a pair of wellies strapped to her back. What does she know that I don't?   We are in a drought, confirmed by a chatty rambler coming the other way.   He tells me how the tops are bone dry and the waterfalls have disappeared.  I reply by mentioning an article in yesterday's paper showing how the Tyne has disappeared and people can cross on foot.  His thoughts?  Geordies always think they can walk on water.

I catch up with the Student at Force Crag Mine and all becomes clear on the Welly front.  She is in the Coledale Beck, taking samples for her thesis.  We agree that on a day like this, it would be the best job in the world.  If only it came with a salary.

A stiff final climb and all the uphill work of the day is done.

Braithwaite in the Far Distance

What goes up must come down and I have a tricky descent of Casgale Gill.   In the end, walking along the river bed proves easier than negotiating the precarious path on the edges.  Ramblers coming the other way motivate me with tales of the quality of today's lunch stop, the Kirkstile Inn.

Liza Beck in Casgale Gill - almost bone dry

It's 2pm by the time I reach the pub.   Sure, getting over Coledale had something to do with that but I also spent a lot of time taking photos.  I declare Crummock Water the most beautiful place on earth.

Valley at the Top of Crummock Water

Pub 10 - Kirkstile Inn, Brackenthwaite, Loweswater Gold

Perfect Setting to Spend a Liquid Lunch

Loved the pub, but the feeling wasn't reciprocated.   Every time I walked in for a pint, or to steal the WiFi, I bashed my head on the low beamed roof.  Like many victims of domestic violence, I kept going back for more.

The reason - Loweswater Gold - the beer discovery of the week.

Perfection in a Glass

For the 1st time on the Inn Way, I have an easy afternoon with no climbs, so I linger for longer than I probably should have.

Now, it may have been the 3 pints, but I'd like the majestic scenery to have some responsibility for bringing a tear to my eye.

I felt moved.

Top of Crummock Water

The 2nd of many  Crummock Photos.  Good job I got a 32GB SD Card before setting off

Overcome with emotion, there was only one thing for it.  I lie down in the sunshine on a little bit of land that poked into Crummock Water called Low Ling Crag.  To the other ramblers taking selfies at this special place, I can only apologise for my snoring.

Less than 2 more miles and the only Geocache of the Day and I am at my home for the night, Buttermere.

One big wave separates Crummock Water and Buttermere

Pub 11 - The Bridge Hotel, Buttermere, Haystacks Gold

Winner of most expensive digs (£159 per night) and pint (£3.95).  So what do you get for your money?  Towels in the shape of Swans and the slim possibility that you may be in a room previously frequented by Queen Victoria.

Still discovering new breweries, it was a Hesket Newmarket Haystacks Gold taken part inside and outside, dependent on WiFi needs.

A touch of luxury

A compromise between the need for WiFi & Mountain Glory

Pub 12 - The Fish Inn, Buttermere, Castlerigg IPA

The shortest Pub Crawl in the world takes me to the Fish Inn and its legendary beer garden.

The Fish Inn

A perfect location to contemplate the glories of the Lake District and where you have something in common with all the other patrons.  We are all ramblers but most are planning tomorrow's adventures.

I know exactly where I am going on Day 4.