Putting the new Guide Book to use
A spare afternoon in Manchester, without the time or the energy to tackle the next stage of the Greater Manchester Ringway. In all its 13 mile glory.
Instead, I'll use the Good Book for entertainment and head to Bolton. Not that one, the other one by Matthew Curtis. Unaware of it? There's a copy proudly displayed behind the counter at my first stop.
One For the Road is housed in the food market. A 9 am opener for the early bird.
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| Light and Airy |
A choice of local cask for £3 a go, my eye was drawn to the Budvar pumps, which included the rarely seen dark. A chat with the Paddy McGuinness soundalike making me aware of a GBG tick that isn't mentioned by Mr C. Their sister pub added to the day's itinerary.
But not until I record a fellow boozer's reaction that solves the recent on-line discussion about kids in pubs.
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| They may have been his grand-kids, but I doubt it |
Great Ale at the Vaults is a very similar vibe. What it lacks in choice to its sibling, it makes up for with fine architecture in the vaults of another market hall.
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| Handsome. Atmospheric. |
The chalk board details a meal deal of a pint and chicken tikka wrap for £9. Add a quid for fries. Of course, I was going to add a quid. House Ale, Great T'Ale from Deeply Vale Brewery a wise choice for a busy day, coming in at a sessionable 3.8% and absolutely delicious.
Alas, the Indian eatery that makes the wraps had failed to meet their opening hours. A more prosaic packet of crisps hardly the lunch of gods.
The bus next. Always a challenge in a strange town, especially when there are no OAPs to ask advice. After 20 minutes, the every 15 minutes 125 (Gold) comes to whisk me away to the intriguingly named Bunburys. I am still unsure what the relationship between Oscar Wilde and Bolton is.
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| First (shop converted) micro of the day |
I am the first punter through the doors at around 1:20pm and a friendly bar worker spots me for the tourist that I am. "Are you doing the 125 Beer Run?" she asks. Chorley, a hot bed of a dozen Cask Ale pubs and another days entertainment added to the list.
A shop converted micro with a wide choice of local and international beers and ciders. After some deliberation, a half of Saison Dupont on keg and is that the king of snacks I spy? As a Black Country lad, you may be expecting me to say the hairiest of scratching from a fella called Ray from Rugely but no. Here they have those massive packet of pappadums, complete with mango chutney pots. Previously only found in Huddersfield.
The sign of a good place....? when it slowly fills with the same people who were in last night. Comparing hangovers and being asked if they are still on the 7% ciders. They are.
An expert on the Bolton Bus system, its back to town for a glorious beer tourist tick. Always love a pub with its own Wikipedia page. The Old Man and the Scythe - with a beautiful bit of understated modesty - claiming to be England's fourth oldest pub. Take note you Fighting Cocks, you Trips, you Porch Houses.... you can't all be number one.
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| Ask inside for a history leaflet |
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| I need to be careful to avoid photo overload |
The dates? Originally from 1251. A date stone in the main bar reading 1638 and a C20th frontage rebuilding after a fire.
There is a monument outside that celebrates the key events. The 7th Earl of Dudley executed outside the pub for his role in the Civil War Bolton Massacre. He spent his last moments in the pub and the chair that he sat on for his final hours is held inside. Of course its haunted and the 125 Bus Run lady from Bunburys warned me not to sit on it for fear of ghoulish retribution. No worries, its in a glass cabinet.
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| Haunted Chair to left of Lady Sniffles. TT Knowle Spring losing focus to the date stone. |
A must visit for pub history fans.
Back on the buses next for the Bank Top Brewery Tap. A far more traditional pub than the name would imply.
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| Does what it says on the tin - Tap Room for the Bank Top Brewery |
A bewildering (to the novice) array of double figure casks. I went for the one adorned with "Champion Beer" rosette - a Dark Mild.
Was it worth the double bus journey? The answer to that depends very much on whether the final horse on the Postman's accumulator came in. Tension raised with the be-shorted one telling everyone how rich he would be if the horse came anywhere between first and sixth. Top place yielding a four figure prize.
I left after it came in 7th and before the sorrows were drowned.
The final port of call, Northern Monkey Bar for the best and worst experiences of the day. Worst - inside is packed and the two young ladies serving have lost control of the bar. Two deep and timidly asking "who's next" is only going to lead to pub chaos. Kids running amok inside, I take my drink to brave the 2024 spring of no sun.
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| Calm Outside, Mental In |
What turns it into the best experience is the two gents I share a table with.... one a Mackem his mate a Salfordian. They engage me in great conversation that covers everything from the best Bass pub in Bath, to the one legged head brewer at Coniston, to the chairman of Stockport Camra and why Seven Brothers Brewery really need to do cask. Top bants, and they leave me with both an invite to join them at the Old Man and a gift. £1.50 worth of Spoon's vouchers. Almost a pint's worth.
I'd have enjoyed the company, but the real reason I am up North starts her set in two hours time. I've learned over time not to trust Northern Trains and I have to check in to my nights digs.
The Lower Turks Head.... who wouldn't want to live in a Holts pub?
