Distance - 11 Miles
Geocaches - 4
Pubs - 3
If you have walked in the Cotswold Golden Triangle - the towns between Chipping Norton, Burford and Stow on the Wold - you may have noticed some aging route markers attached to the stiles.
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| First Marker on the Donnington |
A little digging and 30 years ago, a walking guide was produced that plotted a 62 mile route between their then 15 tied houses scattered in the area.
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| Here's the book |
Having been to about 50% of the pubs detailed - the walk had to be done. I think they are superb examples of old-school country boozers. I am pleased to report that of the 15, only 1 has permanently closed. Most were very busy - incredible, as most of my visits were mid-week lunch time. I'm sure I will mention my thoughts on the beer, as the blogs develop.
On Monday Morning at 9:45am, I am alighting the train at Moreton-in-Marsh, freshly strapped into my largest rucksack and ready for a 5 day beery adventure.
Heading out on the A44, past the Fire Training College, is a pretty dire start to any walk but things improve when the curio that is the four shires stone is reached.
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| Oxfordshire, Worcestershire, Gloucestershire and Warwickshire |
Its a C18th Century boundary stone of the four counties and inspiration for Tolkien's "Three Farthings Stone" in Lord of Rings. We'll have more Tolkien nonsense in Stow. And perhaps the Bell pub on Day 5.
Off the main road and through deer enclosures to Barton-on-the Heath - a pretty enough dry village with no pub. Fear not - Little Compton is a mile south and the first of the 15. Timed to perfection, I arrive at midday - where Google assures me it is open.
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| Pub 1 - The Red Lion, Little Compton |
The front door is bolted. A lady, spying me looking for other openings, shouts through the window that they are closed. When she sees my disappointment and explanation that I am on the Donnington Way, she offers to provide beer through the window.
Perfect. The guide books talks about how this C16th boozer has an exceedingly pretty garden.
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| Off and Running with a Cotswolds Gold |
A lovely lady - she has saved a poor start to any adventure and explained that they are normally open 7 days a week but Covid has decimated her available staff. She is running the place single-handedly and prioritising accommodation turnover above Monday lunch supping.
Continue south to
Chastleon House, where you can click on the link to learn about how its been owned by the same increasingly impoverished family for the last 400 years.
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| Live to your means, no doubt NT members would shout at single moms in council homes |
The first disaster of the trip is met at Stock Bridge on the lane between Evenlode and Broadwell. Closed for all of 2021, as they replace the rail bridge. Colin Handy - guidebook writer - wasn't to know this in 1990. I don't even want to discuss the diversion.
But divert I must because the Fox Inn at Broadwell is the reason why I want to complete this walk. It handsomely nestles in a prime location, overlooking the village green. A popular destination for picnickers and Morris Men, according to Colin.
A picture perfect village inn.
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Handsome Pub
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| Make your own comments about Cotswold Gold #2 |
TV location scouts have also spotted its potential. It was used as the village pub in Father Brown - where it was renamed the Pig and Whistle.
An easy walk along the shaded Monarch's Way to enter Stow-on-the-Wold. Home of plenty of other boozers and my bed for the night at the Stag Inn. An Arkells House. Mrs M is always telling me to complete better research before making bookings :-)
Two final things to report before closing down this blog. I've been to Stow many times but like everywhere, there's always something new to find. If you visit, make sure you look at the north door of St Edwards Church. The yew trees are consuming their way into the fabric of the building.
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| Tokien's Elven "Doors of Durin"? |
And of course, the 3rd and final Donnington of the Day - The Queens Head, facing most of the other pubs across the Market Square.
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Another looker
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| Inside and Out |
Faced with serious competition, its nice to see this one is the busiest of the evening. Colin says this is because they offer traditional games, such as Shove Halfpenny.
I am not so sure. On checking the damage to the Starling Fun Fund, I can determine the beer was about 30% cheaper than any of the competition.
Even the Arkell's house.
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