30/06/2021 - IOW Coast Path Day 4 - Brighstone to Totland Bay

Distance - 11.6 Miles

Geocaches - 2

Places of Interest - Freshwater,  The Needles, Alum Bay, The Waterfront (Good Beer Guide Pub)

Previous Stages - Day 1, Day 2, Day 3 

Day 4 on the Coast Path and the Southern Sections changes from crumbling mud cliffs back to the white chalk of Tennyson Downs, which we can see ahead of us for the majority of the walk.  

Crumbling Cliffs

The Mud Cliffs to be replaced with Chalk Cliffs

I cannot tell a lie - the walking is dull and monotonous.  Seeing the route ahead, we have misguided motivation in Freshwater.  This should be a good place to take refreshments, but the only pub - The Albion Hotel - is closed down.  It was a good job we took advantage of the ice cream van Shippards Chine.

Crystal Clear Sea at Freshwater Bay....

.... Sadly Publess

Its a climb out of Freshwater up onto Tennyson Downs, with the monument a focal point.  A decision needs to be made here.  To complete the Coast Path we need to walk onwards to coastguard cottages and loop back on ourselves.  Alternatively, there is a short cut that could save 3 miles of walking and double the amount of Good Beer Guide Ticks in the day.

Sit down and think about our route

We don't cheat ourselves but the sanity of missing out on Highdown Inn is questioned when we cannot see the Needles from the end of the path.

This is corrected as we pass Alum Bay and look back on the route we have taken.

Alum Bay

The Needles (just about)

Its not far to Totland Bay - but it has been another route march, without a real break.  Our pace only increases when we see the sign to the steps that lead to the Waterfront Inn.

A good beer guide pub that answers the question, what beers do you have on by listing the lagers.  Further prompting reveals 3 real ales, but I'm sure I didn't ask for a Doom Bar.  I definitely did request the iced water.

A Good Beer Guide Tick

Doom Bar.  Water Chaser.

We'd read the reviews and seen the complaints from people who weren't allowed to eat on their lovely terrace overlooking the Solent.  It's one of those funny places that seem to have too many rules that are stringently followed by the staff.

We witnessed a group of pensioners getting told off for eating their icecreams purchased from the premises on the wall outside.

Of course, Covid was blamed for this over-officiousness.   

29/06/2021 - IOW Coast Path Day 3 - Ventnor to Brighstone

Distance - 13.1 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Places of Interest - Blackgang Chine

Previous Stages - Day 1, Day 2 

There is rather an important football game on tonight.  Bus Times require an early start and a bit of a route march to get to the only return transportation that guarantees being seated in front of a TV at 5pm.

Not that there is much on this stretch of the IOW Coast Path to delay us.  It is remarkably bleak.  The sea fret not helping with things.

Exiting Ventnor provides all of today's geocaches.  A wild camper - in an unfathomably large family tent - is guarding one particular ground zero.  My ferreting at fence posts awakes him and he comes out to pontificate about today's game - claiming to both hate football and be very anxious about the result.  We assure him we are not the tent inspectors and head off - leaving behind some pretty beaches and coves to get up onto high farmland.  We could be walking anywhere.

Coves, just outside Ventnor

Up on field edges - with the Sea Fret obscuring views

Progress is marked by passing the most Southerly part of the Island - St Catherines Point.  It's that grim a day that the lighthouse is turned on.

If I had timed the photo better, you would have seen a flash

Even on a tight schedule, refreshment stops need to be made.  The map has a big blue cup of joy in Shale - but will it be there and will it be open?  Fortunately, the Wight Mouse Inn is operating as a hotel - so once you can find access via a convoluted covid one way system - that has completely flummoxed the pensioners exiting through the in door - we have liquid refreshments at 11:50am.

Shale Church

Back on the road at 12:20pm

The cliffs are regained - along with a confusing notice that they are dangerous and the path is closed but offering no detour or indication of how long the path is closed for.  We press on, hugging the farmers fence and learn the meaning of a "Chine".  It is where water meets the coast and due to the the cliffs being basically made of mud - significant detours have to be made inland to get around them.

Blackgang Chine is the first and most significant - with a family fun attraction that must be closed - judging by the empty car park.

The crumbling mud cliffs of South Isle of Wight

A less significant detour is met at Whale Chine and finally, at Shepherd's Chine - the coast path disappears and we give up on it. 

We know that we will have to come inland to reach the bus stop at Brighouse at some point - so this seems as good a point as any.

The next 2 miles is a lane based trudge that could put you off walking for life.

We arrive at the Three Bishops Pub at 2:40pm, meaning we have 20 minutes to convince the surly barkeeps that we deserve a drink before the bus on the hour.  Three inquires, and eventually we are served by the cleaner.  The real bar staff more interested in putting up (or taking down) St George's Cross bunting.

Surly service at the Three Bishops

Not a huge amount to recommend the walk but we met our goals and despite everyone in Newtown clocking off work early for the game and clogging up the roads - we get back to our accommodation for 4:40pm.

Mrs M luxuriates in the bath, the game kicks off and then the boiler explodes.  A cascade of water gushing from the bottom, I charge around trying to simultaneously find receptacles and read the manual to find the stop cock is located.

The emergency plumber was delighted to get a call 20 minutes into the game.

He turned up 5 minutes after the final whistle.  Informing him we had beat the Germans in a competitive game for the first time in 55 years didn't cheer him up as much as I would have expected.

28/06/21 - IOW Coast Path Day 2 - St Helens to Ventnor

Distance - 13.6 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Places of Interest - Bembridge Harbour, Culver Down, Sandown/Shanklin

Previous Stages - Day 1

The bus journey from East Cowes to St Helens involved a change over at Ryde, providing just enough time for bacon sarnies at the Pier Cafe.  We couldn't have started the walk in higher spirits.

Alighting at St Helens, we drop down to the sea along a residential street and navigate Bembridge Harbour.  The tide is out and there are are a collection of House Boats to admire.

Entering Bembridge - with the tide out

One of the many house boats

Once we turn left at the Pilot Inn, we are walking on the sand for the first time at Bembridge Life Boat Station.  

A half mile of Sand Walking - at Bembridge Life Boat Station

A climb back onto the Coast Path, which provides us a sneak preview of a scene that will dominate the walk.  Whitecliff, Culver Down and its monument.  It marks the furthest East point on the Island and the point where the white chalk gives way to geology that can be only described as "Mud", running the length of the Southern coast line.  We'll discuss this more on day 3's blog - as frankly, there is very little else to discuss.

Even the more solid chalk does not stop erosion and we have our first Path closed sign of the week.

A first peak at Whitecliff and Culver Down

But we have to determine how to get there.

A re-route for about 1/2 mile of road walking and we are back on the path to Culver Down - where the OS Map reveals a Big Blue Cup of Joy and a couple of Northerners coming the other way inform of an Ice Cream Kiosk that takes card.  

Getting Closer to Culver Down

What we have walked today (so far)

The Monument

Monday is the day when many of the island's pubs are closed - so we have to make do with a Mr Whippy for the day's first refreshment.  Once we are around the head, we can see Sandown Bay and are reasonably sure that we'll find something more liquid below.

That's the Route Ahead - Sandown Bay and around that distant head

Naturally, I have the Island's Good Beer Guide Pubs all marked on my GPS.  Sandown has the first on route - a back-street boozer called the Castle Inn.  The bible describes it as hosting a crib and darts team and a TV that is only turned on for special events.  

Asking Mrs M to check its opening hours are pointless.  As soon as we start along the promenade, we find a rather wonderful Beach Bar in prime position.  She tells me to "stuff my old man's pub, we're stopping here".

To be fair, it made sense in the sunshine.

Its impossible to tell where Sandown ends and Shanklin begins, but we battle the proper holiday makers past the pier and the lift and find another pub at Shanklin Chine that is just too good to ignore.

Fishermans Cottage is a thatched roof pub hidden away in the woods that reach the shoreline.  It would have been rude to pass-by - especially as the Coast Path led us to the door.

Fisherman's Cottage - for Adnams Ghost Ship

We're hitting the double digits for today's miles and the stretch to Ventnor is one to forget.  The clue is in the name on the map - "The Landslip".  There are diversions aplenty and we reach Ventnor through the undeniably pretty Bonchurch that I would like to say was worth the extra height climbed.

The views were certainly nothing to write home about - but at least there was none of yesterday's mud.

The Landslip

We're rather done in by the time we reach Ventnor - but on entry to the town, I spy the Volunteer... the 2nd of today's potential Good Beer Guide Ticks.  One of the smallest pubs on the Island, the front door is open but only for the landlord to tell us "sometime in July, dependent on Boris".

Fear not - There are two Good Beer Guide entries in Ventnor.

One for the Dubious Pub Tickers Committee - the threshold was crossed

With negotiation skills that could have got me a job with ASLEF in the 1970's, I have to convince Mrs M that walking past the bus stop - all the way to the far end Ventnor's promenade was worth it.

This is where the Spyglass Inn lives.  What I didn't know then was there would be a queue at 4pm on a Monday.  Don't holidaymakers have their tea at funny times?

The Spyglass Inn - and the queue.  We were too tired to go elsewhere

Things were stacked against its inclusion.  

• Obviously a tourist pub.  You can't imagine locals queuing outside for a pub.
• Not many Good Beer Guide entries are guarded by a Plastic Pirate
• It's a Marstons House

After a 20 minute wait - we were shown to a shady table with the expected views.  The staff were superb, treating us well and the beer - a reasonable Ringwood Forty-Niner - came as frequently as a man that walked 13 miles in the summer time could demand.

The food was exceptional.

Now to get those legs going to get back to the bus stop.

27/06/21 - IOW Coast Path Day 1 - East Cowes to St Helens

Distance - 12.3 Miles

Geocaches - 2

Places of Interest - Quarr Abbey, Ryde

The latest adventure - an island circuit.  If the trip involves a ferry crossing, I can class it as a holiday abroad.

We're based in East Cowes - literally 200m from where the Red Funnel docks.  I can hear the cars clunking as I blog.

The Isle of Wight Coast path has the first sign right outside our front door.  8:30am, we head off for a mixed bag of walking and weather.

Blue waymarkers outside our gaff, providing the week's navigational hand rail

The start really questions the sanity of this project. We are following the coast path signs, but the roads past Osborne House and through Wootton provide no views of the sea.  The stretch through Wootton actually takes you through some lock up garages in a housing estate.  Odd, but we are early into the journey and optimism is high.

No pictures of lock up garages and as close to Osborne House as we get

Things improve at Fishbourne, as we climb Kite Hill and pick up a path that is at least near the sea at Quarr Abbey.

Wootton Creek - Nearly the Sea

The pigs (and piglets) of Quarr Abbey

Ryde is ahead and the pier provides the first chance to have a break.  A handful of mods have parked up their vespas - presumably early for the next bank holiday festival.  The Pier Cafe lures us in with its chalk menu promising "draught beers". San Miguel is a bit too Euro Fizz, so I stick with the bottled Yates Dark Side, having yesterday discovered the brewery at our first Good Beer Guide Pub Tick on the Island, the Lifeboat.

Yates Dark Side at the Ryde Pier Cafe

Leaving Ryde in the Rain

Refreshments finished, we head off just as the heavens open in a downpour.  A ringside view of that most traditional of British Holiday scenes, the families rushing to pack up belongings to get shelter.

And its shelter we find, at a hut we share with a man whose circumstances intrigue.  10 weeks, he has has been here and according to him, it's rained every day.  We wonder what sort of man spends 10 weeks in a hut in Ryde, as we leave him to it and continue along the seafront, all the way to the next town.

Mrs M enquires as to what town it is and my map says "Seaview", which she says sounds like a B&B rather than a town.  A couple of handsome pubs, with enviable views, but alas, its deemed too soon since Ryde to stop at either the Boat House or the Old Fort.

Seaview leads to Seagrove Bay, where the first navigational decision needs to be made - and of course, we make the wrong choice.  My GPS route would have us heading inland at the Southern End of the Bay.  The blue signs indicate that we continue on the sea front.  We do, and we are faced with the mud bath that is Priory Woods.  A handy sign about a 1/2 a mile after this decision point tells us that its steep, muddy and should only be attempted by people correctly attired.  Salt is rubbed into the wound by suggesting a more pleasant path can be found inland.  My originally planned route.

Sticking to the coast, for the mud at Priory Woods

We are in a bit of state, by the time we reach the Vine in St Helens - handily positioned to provide refreshments, whilst waiting 40 minutes for the next bus on a Sunday.  But they don't mind - a fine secret garden keeps us off the carpets and they have adapted to the new normal.  Each table in the garden has a little doorbell to call for assistance.

Surprisingly, 60 seconds after pressing a waitress comes to take our order - where the real ale choice is Doom Bar.  Great to see a system working.

And the bus was bang on time.

Mrs M telling other ramblers about the mud

19/06/2021 - Pilgrimage to Nothing Bound Brewery

One of the few things to shout about in 2020 was the opening of a new Taproom in our home town, Stourport-on-Severn. We've been with it through the lock downs, the sitting outside in December with bowls of Vegetable Chili and the shared hope for better days, now just around the corner.

An unassuming exterior...

... leads to a suntrap Terrace.  Right Hand table booked for my Son.

I must admit that I was a little sceptical as to whether it would be a success, but this worry was completely unfounded.  One of the main reasons for this, is the permanence on tap of the wares from a new local brewery, Nothing Bound.

There's something about their beers that has captured the imagination of the town.  The bar is always full.  Pre-booking is advised.  Even then, on some evenings, we have exceeded our allotted 2 hour window and politely asked to vacate to allow the next shift to take over.

Importantly, a shared love of beer has developed between myself and my 23 year old son. After many sessions, he has developed a theory that these Craft IPA's contain something that is sending middle aged men loopy but not affecting his age group.  To be fair, today's youth have grown up on the plus 5%'ers.  We cut our teeth on Banks Bitter.

His observations include previous law abiding middle aged citizens running away without settling the bill.  The night we ended up with all the left overs from Pat's chippy, without paying.  And a story about a friend of a friend who required help being put to bed, following an incident that cannot ever be mentioned.

It didn't take long for us to realise that the brewery had a tap room - which despite a systematic social media campaign from yours truly to include Bank Holidays in their opening times, only opens on a Saturday.  Two months after the release of semi lockdown, three of us have a spare Saturday to make the pilgrimage. A walk was fashioned from the metropolis to Chapel Farm, Heightington

The walk was better than expected.  Troops motivated with hot sausage rolls, we meet at the bridge and head on up (ever up) through Arley Woods, wild flower meadows and the odd encounter with beasts of the field.

Through Arley Woods

Sheep that were bothering us

Three miles uphill is about the correct distance that refreshments are required.

The brewery is hosted in a barn at Chapel House Farm.  Indoor seating can be booked, but when the sun is shining, there's few places better than sitting outside on long benches, with a beer menu to work through.

Today's Plan

Chapel Farm

The Brewery Tap Room

The Untappd race is on....

Naturally, we started at the top of the menu.  Quiet Spring is a brand new beer.  Checking Untappd, I looked at the details and realised that worldwide Check Ins were zero.  This was a chance for a unique record.  Photos were arranged.  The text was written and I announced to the table, my record breaking feat.

Only for the head brewer to overhear and say "the bloke on that table has beat you to it".

A very pleasant couple of hours were spent, trying the other two pales/ipas and watching the place fill to capacity.

The word is out and its great to see a success story.  If the news spreads to Kidderminster, they will need a bigger barn.

A wrench to tear ourselves away, even if the best views were waiting for us.  

Four pints and I was ready to challenge the Romantic Poets

Eagled eyed viewers will have noted that the route stops abruptly at the Dog in Dunley.

Lola, the little dog in the first walking picture, was getting tired - so we called emergency services for rescue.

No one wants a dog to have to suffer.

12/06/21 - The Hat, Seaton - One for the Dubious Pub Ticking Panel

Good Beer Guide Tick = #557 (Maybe)

The punchline first - I brought beer from there, so regardless of the purists, I'm claiming it.

The horrors of a 4.5hr drive, the first traffic jam since lockdown on the M5 and the misery of Bridgwater Services needed to be extinguished from my memory.  The Good Beer Guide can show me the nearest place to do this - but suspicions are aroused by the name.

The Hat with No Cattle, Seaton.   Its going to me a micro isn't it?

Will it be open?  Friday 6pm seems like a good time to chance my arm.

Will we fit in?  There are 6 of us.  I have brought my adult children, my wife and parents-in-law - who, having experienced geocaching, are equally keen to see what else I get up to on a weekend?

Will it be wheelchair friendly?  Only one way to find out.  Plonk my mother-in-law into the chariot and work up a thirst by pushing her the 1.5 miles along the river Axe into town.

This all works out fine - until we reach a hill.  Being experienced in micros, I decide the safest thing to do is to head off alone, text back if we are good to go and get my adult son to take over pushing duties.

The Hat Seaton

Some notes on the micropub - a former butchers shop that has four real ales on Tap.  There is no fizzy beer or lager.  A no mobile phone policy in operation.  The unusual name courtesy of the landlord who always wears a hat.  Google Map shows it as a 5pm opener.

All pre-requisites for a micro met.

Naturally, at 6pm, it was all locked up.

But there is hope, for I am here on Saturday

I return to the posse and a look that will haunt me for the rest of my days.  The disgust on my Mother-in-law's face when I tell her the pub is shut.  It was very similar to mine after I had been served an appalling Otter Ale at the near-by Malt House.

I'm not easily put off.  The following day, I complete a wonderful walk from nearby Beer and have finished by midday.  I head back to investigate.

The door is indeed open and I look around for instructions, a bar, tables to sit at - something pub-like.  All I see is a butcher's chiller cabinet and some shelves with consumable food products.

Mask on, I ask the stupid question "Hello, is there a bar here?".

The lady replies "No, this is a delicatessen" 

Have I gone through the wrong door?  The mystery is solved when the landlord comes out and breaks my heart with tales of running a micro in lockdown.  Just no space.  They have relaunched the business.

Thinking about the beer ticking community and feeling mighty sorry for our landlord - I ask if they sell beer.  

I exit with the last four bottles of Exmoor Brewery ales they have on the shelf.   

And a pork pie.  

Footnote:  I think it was the landlord.  He was hatless. 

12/06/21 - Beer to Branscombe

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Geocaching - 3

Walk Inspiration - Jarrold South Devon and Dartmoor - Walk 20

It had to happen.  A Real Ale Walking Blog that comes from Beer.

And what a delightful place it is. A narrow high street, with a stream running down the side of it.  Gorgeous beach, with several choices of refreshment.  Three pubs to choose from, post walk.

From the cliff top car park, I am straight out onto the Coast Path, where a life long ambition is realised.  I geocache at Beer Head.

Looking Back towards Beer - on the way to Beer Head

A choice is presented at Branscombe Cliffs - I can stay high and walk on the cliff tops or I can meander down onto the landslip - which presents a "land that time forgot" walking experience.  Shielded from the sun under a tree canopy, with impressive views in the occasional gaps.  Top walking, even if I know the climb back up top awaits.

Branscombe Cliffs from above

The Land Slip that is waiting to be explored

Waiting for a Boris Carving to be added.  Or maybe not.

Back up top and you can see where I am headed

Branscombe Mouth offers refreshment, with a cafe - and access to the beach.  It also offers an escape route to shorten the route - but there's no need for that on such a glorious day.   Another stiff climb up the headland but the reward is a pretty church and the Mason's Arms.  Unless its before midday.

Branscombe Church 

Find me a prettier pub!  (One open, is the required response)

Its easy inland walking on the way back - more hill climbing but once at Mare Lane - its all gently downhill to Beer.

A choice of three pubs are available.  The Dolphin looked interesting, in an old school hotel way.  The Anchor could compete for "Best View from a Beer Garden" competition but the free house that is the Barrel of Beer won the Mappiman dollar.

It nearly provided the title of todays blog.

I certainly have

The Barrel of Beer

On a day like today, I only poked my head through the door.  The umbrella on the left had my name on it.  I can report there were two real ales on.  I can also report the LocALE Branscombe Brewery Golden Fiddler was a fitting finale to fine day.

Afternoon Entertainment Sorted