An 11 mile walk from Lewisham to Wanstead provides London's greatest view, the most unusual way to use your oyster card and the hit and miss of London boozing by guide book.
A stunning start to the stage 10 of the London Spiral. Which is the finest view over London? Primrose Hill, or Greenwich park observatory?
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| One of many photos - but this captures most of London |
With several Adventure Lab Caches, its also a meandering start to the walk. I learn of Cornish uprisings and their subsequent quashing. I take GPS readings where the Westings are set to zero. My psychogeography ramblings play havoc with a well attended park run.
Exiting Greenwich park at Maze Hill, I can at last get into a bit of a stride along the Thames Path.
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| Heading East |
The last time I crossed the Thames from South to North, was via a ferry. This time, one of the more unsual transport options available through an Oyster Card delivers me to Canning Town. A Cloud cable car to myself for a brief respite from walking and minor panic at how close the planes coming in to land at City Airport are.
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| A glimpse of today's transport - whilst trying to determine how to cross the Blackwell Tunnel Approach |
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| Victoria Docks and City Airport |
Time for refreshment and the Good Beer Guide entries are stored in the GPS. I have to admit, I did not expect to find a largely unchanged C18th Coaching House in Plaistow.
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| Stable Bar, a clue to former purpose |
Entrance is a challenge. All doors have signs with an arrow saying "use next entrance". When the doors run out, you enter to an unmanned bar, with a rear door exit to the courtyard. Gaspers will provide directional advice, and you have to walk behind the bar to find where the life is.
Its a locals bar, so taking internal photos near impossible. But once you win their trust through a few jokes, you are made to feel at home to the point that a fellow drinker will join you at your table. They don't get many rucksack carrying ramblers through West Ham.
Explanations given, with added colour on my eternal quest to seek out Good Beer Guide ticks. My new friend tells me he used to drink real ale till his weight ballooned to 17st. He only drinks lager now and I would estimate him to be around 12st. I tell him he ought to write a book on how to shed the pounds through a lager diet. He concurs, thinks deeply and then adds that there was also a stressful divorce.
The pub starts to fill and I could have stayed all day but walking progress needs to be made.
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| A veteran landlord of 35 years and a demolished Mighty Oak Brewing Captain Oak |
Hopefully, I have found the roughest part of the London Spiral. I cannot recommend Forest Gate as a destination. A four man brawl outside some shops in the early afternoon. People chasing the dragon on the steps of run down housing. Previous geocaching logs put an end to that distraction. Possibly forever.
Such a lovely idea to remember your grandpa but it’s not a safe place to be wondering around. Came across handfuls of needles, crack spoon, human waste. I wouldn’t recommend anyone searches for it. Maybe the owner could relocate it.
The Good Beer Guide Pubs dry up but I can bring you the joys and perils of using other aging guide books.
My second edition of Des De Moor's Camra Guide to London's best pubs and bars is 8 years old.
It leads me slightly off route to find the wonderful Wanstead Tap. Housed in a railway arch, like all good taps should be. Empty on a Saturday afternoon, I only get a glimpse of the glories within. Its more than just a drinking den, with live music, poetry readings and film nights. Seating setup like a speakeasy jazz club, with little round tables with individual lighting. Pint jugs with a tea-light. This is bordered by some fine Chesterfields, where I can watch the proprietor work on the lighting show configuration, whilst I relax with a 6.2% Northern Monk IPA.
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| Beer, Gin, Music and Books. Not much else in life, really. Oh, and Pizza. |
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| View from a Chesterfield |
The host does not leave me totally alone, engaging in just the right amount of chat. I leave chuckling about the perils of on-line reviews from entitled parents and finding yet more inspiration for days out.
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| I make this four beer miles I need to do. |
Thanks for showing me the Wanstead Tap, Des, but what do you recommend for lunch?
Belgique Bistro sounds right up my street. Des says...
Leafy Wanstead is an unexpected setting to stumble on this outpost of Low Countries culture, the only licenced outlet in a small Belgian-owned patisserie chain. A decent range of bottled beer, if a little weak in the lambic department.
Lovely - Kwak and frites coming up.
Well, I get half of that. The booze licence has been revoked.
My frites washed down with the final dregs of my rambling water.
Walk Information
Distance - 11.5 Miles
Start - Lewisham Station
Finish - Wanstead Tube
Areas Walked - Black Heath, Greenwich, Canning Town, Plaistow, West Ham, Forest Gate, Wanstead
Geocaches - 4 and 2 Adventure Lab Caches
Pubs - 3 (Good Beer Guide Tick #803)
Previous Walks - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9
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