22/01/23 - January Man: January at the Severn Estuary in Gloucestershire

Walking the chapters of Christopher Somerville's The January Man, Month by Month

Christopher Somerville is the Times journalist responsible for the "weekly walks" in the Saturday weekend section. He is also a published author and his book, "January Man:  A Year of Walking Britain" looked a suitable contender to carry me through 2023. Each chapter represents a walk in a different part of Britain and I am always looking for more psychogeophary inspiration. 

Can I follow the monthly routes, as I read each chapter in the appropriate month?  

January is a nice easy start. The location is relatively local to me, just south of Tewkesbury. The Leigh, Gloucestershire, was Christopher's childhood home. 

I most enjoyed the 20 minute read, as he muses on his childhood friendship with Roo, his relationship with his WWII scarred father and growing up in a tiny farming community on the banks of the River Severn. There's a lengthy extract and some photos of Christopher and Roo at Frontier Magazine.

Fittingly, his revisit and walk sometime in the mid 2010s was blighted by floods. I found a suitable route but completing the basics of pre-trip research, I was able to see that the Red Lion, Wainlode, had been unable to re-open after Christmas.

I won't be visiting Christopher's Local

The flooding was worse than expected. I started my walk from The Leigh's Church, where Christopher spends time reminiscing on the surnames of childhood neighbours, now populating the graveyard. I get about half a mile into the walk before hitting the floodwaters, at least half a mile from the river. The fact the waters are frozen does not help me much. I have not brought ice-skates and the ice is not thick enough to support a grown man.

Looking back over The Leigh's Church

Hitting the flood waters

The red line shows my planned walk. The blue line shows the reality.

Planned 7m becomes 3m

Still, I was able to complete the loop of the Leigh. The Cyder Press (Roo's childhood home) and Hoefield House (Christopher's) were found, the latter Grade II listed and the most impressive building in the village. It now hides behind a gated wall, with no indication of the name.

The journey continued by vehicle, as I was keen to see the first crossing north of Gloucester and see what pub archaeology could be completed. The Hawbridge Inn painting a desolate picture of the lot of a publican all the way back in 2017.  A Gloucester news article detailing the following;

In a post on its Facebook page, it said: “It is with deep regret that we have to inform you that we will be closing the doors to the Haw Bridge Inn after this evening’s service. We had a good run in the little bit of summer we traded in, but, sadly, we were plunged into one of the quietest quarters we have experienced in the 12 years of our pub experience.

Last week, the snow at the start, theft of all our heating oil, and no water at the end, was the week that sealed the deal, and unfortunately we had no other choice but to close down trading.

The journey down through a bleak landscape, with the B4123 raised just high enough above the icy floodwaters. Enough to bring the drone enthusiasts out to get some interesting footage.

The road to Red Lion at Hawbridge, not faring so well

There were actually two pubs at Hawbridge, on either side of the road. The Riverside Inn falling into dilapidation but I can bring good news from the Hawbridge Inn. New owners in the garden confirmed that it was re-opening but no time frames given. I hope they took my advice of putting a lock on the oil tank.

Hawbridge Inn - Phoenix from the Flames - notice floodwaters behind

The view from Hawbridge

Refreshment was found further up the road at Apperley.  The Farmer's Arms trading on the strength of their food, offering what looked a pleasant dining experience in an ancient farmhouse.  Concessions made for the drinker, with three Chesterfields surrounding a log fire.

Farmers Arms, Apperley

Wadworth 6X from Wiltshire.  Scratchings from the Black Country

Walk Information

Distance - 7 miles planned, 3 miles achieved

Walk Inspiration - Pub Walks for Motorists:  Bristol, Bath, Somerset and Gloucestershire 

Pub - The Farmers Arms, Lower Apperley

Geocaches - 1