09/04/22 - London Spiral Walk - Stage 5

Distance - 12 Miles

Start - South Kensington 

Finish - Canada Water

Areas Walked - Chelsea, Battersea, Stockwell, Camberwell, Peckham, Bermondsey, Rotherhithe

Geocaches - 3 and 2 Adventure Lab Caches

Pubs - 3

Previous Walks - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4

The London Spiral creators have little to say about stage 5 on their website. Hell, they don't even recommend starting where the last leg ends - giving up on Battersea as 

"alarming for the solitary walker – a mix of railway embankments, light industrial units, razor wired properties and islanded council blocks"

Not to worry, later in the walk we move into Camberwell, Peckham and Millwall.

I'm a brave solo walker - so pick the route up where I finished in Feb - South Kensington dropping down through Chelsea to Albert Bridge.  On another day, in honour of Jordan, I'd have gone looking for sex.  The punk, not the model. The shop on Kings Road, not the activity.

First distraction of the day is crossing the Albert Bridge and taking a circuitous route across Battersea Park to find the 5 locations of an Adventure Lab Cache.

Albert Bridge - remembering to break stride with my fellow walkers.

No flying pigs over Battersea Power Station today

The most interesting location was the statue of a dog, dedicated to the anti-vivisectionist movement that sparked riots in the early 1900s.  Atlas Obscura has the details but it did get me thinking what would get us rioting in the 2020s.  The Sunday Times (and Martin Lewis) predict fuel poverty, but bizarrely not until it warms up in the summer.

Yes, I walk around London looking like I am about to conquer Kilimanjaro 

Until arrival at Rotherhithe, the remainder of the walking is plodding the streets of possibly the most unloved parts of London.  No carrots in Camberwell.  No three wheelers in Peckham.  Millwall at 2pm when there is a home game is frankly terrifying.  You know that Verve video where he knocks all and sundry down in the street?  I am the rambling polar opposite of Richard Ashcroft.  Stone Island imprints on my Berghaus soft-shell.

So if I'm not recommending the walking, how about the pubs?  Three Good Beer Guide Ticks are available;

The Masons Arms, 169 Battersea Park Road, London Pride

Grade II listed, refurbed in 2019

A rare 10am opener.  The bible states that its 20 keg and 3 cask lines attract a young, affluent crowd.

The two other breakfast time boozers are two gents in their 60s, sharing a table.  One with the Mirror, one with the Star. They say not a word to each other.

My beer choice was a little conservative with a Cask London Pride.  I could have spent half an hour looking at the Signature Brew Tap Take Over menu on the 20 keg lines.

When there is no ESB, take Pride

The Surprise, 16 Southville

A midday opener, for which I was 30 minutes too early as I reached Larkhall Park - just south of the New Covent Garden Market.

Included in the blog for the fine signage.

Ram's Revenge

The Hermit's Cave, 28 Camberwell Church Street, Adnams Ghost Ship

Imposing and curved

12:16pm and the door is bolted but that magical sound of scrape-age is heard whilst I am peering through the windows, looking for signs of life. No more pubs till Rotherhithe.

It's been run by the same family for 25 years and they've left Nan in charge of lunchtime opening. I sit under the TV, which she valiantly manages to turn on for the Grand National.  Which starts in 4hrs, 57 minutes time. A fine conversation ensues, where she details her life history following her emigration from Ireland as a 17 year old and I share that I just saw a fox. Bold as you like, walking down the footpath around the corner like it owned the place.

Ghost Ship on the Mary Celeste of Pubs

Lovely to see an unspoiled, traditional Victorian pub.  Get them whilst you can.  The only other punter in my 30 minute visit was a cheeky fecker asking to use the loo's without buying a drink.

Back to the walk, which is meant to finish at Canada Water tube station.  With time on my side, I firstly divert to Rotherhithe for a bit of Thames Path beauty, a 2nd Adventure Lab Cache and a revisit to the Mayflower.

Got to see the sights

Too good a pub to miss.