03/09/21 - Three Good Beer Guide Ticks in Durham

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #581 to 583

The Dun Cow, Old Elvet, Castle Eden Ale

Dun Cow, Durham

A couple of fine old tales associated with this Grade II C15th Boozer.

The first one involves how Durham received its name.  Something to do with Monks looking for a place to dispose of the St Cuthbert's remains and coming across a milkmaid (is this woke?) who had lost her cow.

Silly Moo.

More interesting is the story provided by an Adventure Lab Cache - which has its first stage at this pub.  The hangmen used to come in here for a pre-capital punishment livener.  Billy Marwood was one of these hangmen - noted for his professionalism.  That was until he made a cock-up with Jame Burton, who stumbled into the pit before the trap door had opened properly, breaking his neck but not fatally.  The 2nd attempt led to him suffering slow strangulation.

And that, Blogfans, is why we call someone tripping - "going for a Burton".

 

Outdoor seating lasts approximately 5 mins until the drizzle starts.  Access to the front bar and lounge is along a thin corridor, where the cow story is told.

Cow Banter

We opted for the lounge.  Proper Old School - low roof, group of 6 lads all on Stella, old solo guy - who by the way he looked at us - we were definitely sitting in his seat.

A first Castle Eden Ale - a Durham brewery running since 1826 and back in private hands since a dalliance with Whitbread.  A classic English Bitter.

Half Moon, New Elvet, Timothy Taylor Landlord

Bloody Road Works on the New Elvet Bridge

Named after the half moon shaped bar that divides a busy front room from a rear lounge.

A very sneak preview of the Half Moon Bar

The real action is in a fine courtyard - with great views over the old Elvet Bridge and despite a sign saying "No Climbing", offers an escape route over a wall into the Swan pub on the opposite side.

Timothy Taylor Landlord in outstanding condition.

Beer Garden View

Pint of the Night

The Victoria Inn, Hallgarth Street, Big Lamp Bitter

Pub of the night - mainly because Mrs M has surpassed herself.  We struggled to find accomodation at short notice, when I was too tight to pay the Marriott £225, with £12 parking.  Mrs M sparked up AirBnB and got us into a four story townhouse that is next door to this Victorian Classic.

(I should caveat that we have only one room in the four story townhouse.  But did I say its next door to a Good Beer Guide Pub?)

On the Way Out

On the Way Home

Its unchanged since 1899 and has remained in the same family's hands for 40 years.   I'd go as far as to say it is staffed by the family's Nan(s) and I hope they are paying them a living wage.

Nan 1 

The central bar is accessible from several rooms.  We entered into the quiet "Sitting Room" - where service could have been summonsed via a doorbell.  Instead, I ventured into the main bar - which was heaving with friendly bar-flies only too keen to allow me access to the pump clips.

Something made me go for a previously unheard Big Lamp Bitter.  Possibly the subliminal advertising below the mirror in the above photo.  It is the pub's ever present offering and another classic English Bitter - form Tyne and Wear's Oldest Brewery.

With only a limited time in Durham, I think we chose wisely.  Maybe all the pubs are great here. 

There's only one way to find out.  We'll have to come back.  Especially now we know where the cheap(er) digs are.