16/01/18 - Squares and Crescents of Edinburgh New Town - Pub Walk

Distance - 3.5 Miles
Walk Inspiration - CAMRA Edinburgh Pub Walks, Walk 7
Pubs - 4
Previous Edinburgh Pub Walks -  Rose Street, Royal Mile around the Castle, Around the Castle, Tollcross, Fountainbridge and Haymarket, Around Waverley



Like a Brummie Captain Oates, I respond to my colleagues request to meet for an after work meal with "I'm heading out for a walk and I may be some time".   Conditions can be filed under "Arctic".

I'm out in this, in the relentless pursuit to find Edinburgh finest boozer

It's not the best weather for finding nano geocaches but the architecture certainly makes up for the conditions. 

Simply stunning locations to live, so close to the City.  An oasis of tranquility, even if parking looks like it could get tricky.

Moray Circus.  If I won the Lottery.

Kay's Bar, 39 Jamaica Street, Deuchars IPA

This former Wine Merchants is small, but absolutely perfectly formed.  Rebus's Guide to Edinburgh pubs describes the area as a "former run down tenement, where the criminals of Jamaica Street could look out their windows to see the judges that would try them in the morning".

It certainly gentrified now and probably only inhabited by judges.

Tonight's Photos Hampered by outdoor Smokers

Inside is a small room, with seating along the bar that runs the 20ft length of the establishment and a small number of tables under the barrels on the opposite side.   There's a single snug off the back, where I made my presence felt amongst the locals that feel at home there.  It may have been possible to venture upstairs, but I didn't want to run the risk of looking an idiot.

View from a bar stool

The only one of tonight's four that's in the Good Beer Guide 2018 and no arguments from me as to why that would be.   In a month of fine Deuchars IPA, this was indeed the finest.  My comment to the bar staff stating this piqued the interest of the drinker next to me, who not only became interested in my quest to tick off all Edinburgh's GBG pubs but also knew an awful lot about the pubs of my home patch in the West Midlands.

It would have been a fine enough night to stay here with my new friend, but there's always more to explore.

I will be back.

Clarks Bar, Dundas Street, Theakstons XB

No exterior shots but you're not missing much.  In fact, if you don't pay attention, you would either walk straight past or maybe dismiss its exterior as slightly down at heel.  This would be a mistake, as inside is where it reveals its charms.

Whereas Kay's was small and intimate, this bar opens out to a high ceiling room with spaced out tables hosting clientele that can be best described as "eclectic".   The bar man was friendly and I couldn't help but overhear him talking with some regulars about beer quality, production and value.  Interesting to hear his high praise for English Beers and it was a superb Theakstons XB that caught my eye.

Theakstons in a Deuchars with Stuttgart on the TV

Cumberland Bar, Cumberland Street, Stewarts 80/-

Nothing really out of the ordinary from the outside, this bar looks "Upmarket Chain" but like everything in Edinburgh, there's more to it than meets the eye.

My favourite anecdote is that it features in the Alistair McCall Smith books, with 44 Scotland Street almost being around the corner.  (The street exists, the number doesn't).

It has a classic pub history, from down at heel back street boozer, to gentrification and renaming to "The Tilted Wig" to being taken over by the same people who own the Bow Bar and Thompsons Bar (previously explored).  It's also the first establishment found tonight that did food.   Much needed and further evidence that anything "Scottish Fusion" gets haggis added.  Worked rather well on Burger.

I think you can get the idea of the place from the exterior.

Interior matches the Exterior

The Star Bar, Northumberland Place, Guinness

This is one place that a) I had never heard of and b) had a little trouble finding.  It's not deadly obvious that a pub existing down this quiet back street but confirmation with the smokers outside showed that I had found my way, even if they looked questioningly as to why I wanted to be there.

Simple, the guide book told me to come.

Big Light, Advertising Board, No Pub Sign

Three blokes sat at the bar, obscuring the options available, but friendly enough to include me in their conversation and ask if I like Roller Skating.

Could this be part of the initiation?  I haven't been as confused since I was asked if I was a Mod or Rocker at middle school and didn't know the correct response.  I was beaten up when I said I was a Rocker by a goon in a fish tail parka.

It transpires they have a keyboard and are in control of what video appears next on YouTube across the tv screens.  Chet Faker's Gold Video explain all.  Some tune as well.  Always learning on my nights out.

Between my three amigos, I couldn't really see any real ales on besides a solitary bitter and twisted.  I decided to play it safe with a Guinness and appreciate the pubs wonders.  Table football, split level seating and a million and one nick nacks that include Star Wars At-At Walker models and strategically placed dog water bowls designed to ensnare four pints in Brummies.

Three Amigos and Youtube Videos

I was asked for my music selection but panicked and said the name of my favourite video, Johnny Cash's cover of Nine Inch Nails Hurt.

They correctly pointed out that it wasn't in keeping with the rollerskating girls vibe that they had so carefully developed.

I left with a damp foot to see what the weather was doing.

Still Arctic.

Edinburgh in Snow #1

Edinburgh in Snow #2