09/05/17 - Inn Way to Lake District - Day 1 - Ambleside to Rosthwaite

Start - Ambleside
Finish - Rosthwaite
Distance - 13.5 Miles
Key Features - Two Climbs, Rydal, Lunch in the Fleshpots of Grasmere, Unique Hotel Experience
Geocaches - 5
Pubs - 5

Following last years successful Inn Way to the Yorkshire Dales, it was never going to be a question of if we would do one of the other books in 2017, but which one we would do.   Complex planning was made in January to book accommodation and travel and the excitement gently built throughout the year as the departure date approached.

You can only imagine my disappointment when my walking partner had to pull out on the eve of the journey, citing "work problems".

It's going to take me ages to photo shop him out of all of last years photos.

All is never lost.  I vow to treat all the people I meet on the route as friends unmet and I have another mate joining later in the week.

Travel arrangement are a revelation.  After years of battling up the M6 to get to the Lakes, I decide to take the Train and Bus.  Two and half hours after leaving, two trains and a bus deliver me to the heart of Ambleside and I am dropping my celebration clothes off at the Salutation (Spa planned for day 7) and hitting the route, under perfect no fleece required weather conditions.

The morning walk is through the beautiful grounds of Rydal Hall, under Nab Scar and the first zig zaggy climb to where the 1st Geocache of the week is found.  Rydal Water provides the beauty and still with 3G, a chance to tweet that the adventure is underfoot.

Rydal Water from Under Nab Scar

The purpose of this ascent is to take the walker to Alcock Tarn, a perfect picnic spot with more than a passing resemblance to an infinity pool.

Alcock Tarn.

The minute you've reached the top, the descent to Grasmere begins.  I've said a cherry hello to everyone walking the other way but get into my first conversation with an elderly man and wife puffing their way up the other side.  A good 5 minutes is spent chatting until we are overtaken by two young ladies in extremely tiny denim shorts, prompting the old guy to say that "he better be off and follow them, in case they get lost".   A closing remark delivered with a wink and received with a slap from his wife.

Downhill all the way for me to Grasmere, the morning walk completed and the first pubs of the day.   I am booked into the Royal Oak in Rosthwaite - where Evening Meal is compulsory.  On booking, the owner informed me that I must be there by 7:30pm sharp, which would present no problem, provided I didn't "get stuck in the fleshpots of Grasmere".

Let's see what they have.

Pub 1 - The Swan, Grasmere, Wainwright

Swan Hotel

More of a hotel than a pub but as you can see it is Cask Marque.  I even locate the certificate to find that it expired in Feb 2017.  As I am checking to see if it will scan, I inform the girl behind the bar that it has lapsed and she comes for a look, agreeing that "Yep, Chris doesn't work here anymore".

A suitably apt pint of Wainwright in presentation glass taken out into the sunshine, where the fleece to packed away in the rucksack, never to be taken out again.

Perfect Start

Pub 2 - The Inn, Grasmere, Tirril Brewery Grasmere Gold

A short hop skip and a jump to the Inn, a rambling, exquisitely furnished gastro pub with a beautiful patio area.

Popular with Cyclists

Pub 3 - Tweedies Bar, Coniston Brewery Old Man Ale

I love this pub for the simple reason that the last time I was here, the barman refused to serve my mate an expensive Malt Whisky with Dry Ginger.  Even after he had protested that "The customer was always right".

Not in Cumbria.

First Good Beer Guide entry on the trip and rightly so.  A large choice of interesting ales but I chose wisely and the Old Man ale went straight to top of the "Pint of the Week" chart.

Best in Class in Grasmere

It's a tough call to press on, but walk I must.  The geocache in the centre of the village is found despite the hoards of tourist and I have a long afternoon climbing Grasmere Common to reach the peaks of Greenup Edge and Lining Crag.  You'll hear this a lot this week, but the walking is simply superb.

Afternoon's Entertainment

Greenup Edge Conquered

To drop down into Rosthwaite

A good few hours to complete.  A fair number of people coming the other way and a pleasant 15 minute football chat with a Spurs fan who has been off the grid for a few days and didn't know that Chelsea had more or less won the title.  Still, its hard to get angry up here.

The reward - Rosthwaite - home of my bed and a couple more pubs.

Pub 4 - Langstrath Inn, Keswick Gold

Cambrian humour identified by the sign outside that says "In Loving Memory of a Sunny Day in Borrowdale".  They obviously haven't looked out of the window, because believe it or not, the wood burning fire is on.

They also have a Rolf Harris - Two Little Boys - playing.  They may not have heard.

Wonderful pub and I entertain the beer garden by telling them all about the Inn Way.

I knew there was a reason I started my walk on a Tuesday  

Short walk into Rosthwaite and the Hotel.

Into Rostwaite at 6:30 - Plenty of time for Evening Meal

Now, if you are still with me you may remember that I had to be dressed and ready for dinner at 7:30 at the Royal Oak.  On arrival, I am asked if "Salmon is OK?".  It is, but its not really mountain food is it.  I ask if there is a choice and I negotiate a Cumberland Sausage.

Shower and changed into my finery, I emerge from my room just as a little old lady bangs a gong.

This gong.

Dinner is served

And suddenly, its like Sainsburys when the peas are reduced.  There's people everywhere making a bee line for the dining room.  Myself included in the human rush.

The soups are brought out.  There are a large number of Solo Coast to Coasters and I get into a wonderful conversation with a Floridian Bill Bryson type who has already walked Hadrian's wall and is now doing the CTC.

The mains are brought - everyone gets their salmon but if they had been observant, they would have noticed my table is the only one with a mustard pot.

The look on the CTC'ers faces when the waitress came in with the announcement "Mr Mapp is a Sausage".

The system sounds old school and it's absolutely wonderful, prompting chat and company.   Coffees are taken to the drawing room until I realise I have one more pub to do.

Pub 5 - The Riverside Bar at the Scafell Hotel, Strands Gold Wing

The 2nd Good Beer Guide Entry.   Again, understandably so.  I could really do with reporting home in case Mrs M has informed mountain rescue but I am laughed at during my inquiry for WiFi.  They have a pay phone but it has "Broken" emblazoned in tipix on the receiver.

Communication has to wait until tomorrow, when Bill Bryon informs me of the Internet in the TV Room of the Royal Oak.  The Internet is closely guarded in these parts.  So much so that the password is "b0rr0wd4le", should you ever find yourself in the area and needing to keep your wife happy.

Final Pub of the Day - Riverside Bar

Good Days Work