Wednesday 29 August 2018

29/08/18 - Bathams Pub Walk - The Lamp Tavern, Dudley

Distance - 7 Miles
Walk Inspiration - AA 50 Walks in Warwickshire and the West Midlands
Geocaches - 1
Other Walks from Bathams Pubs


You'd not normally associate Dudley with rambling but this is a surprisingly rural walk that is jam packed with interest, history and good beer.  I haven't got space in the blog to tell you everything that I learned but if you do some research, you will know all about a man called Dud Dudley (from Dudley), coal mining, the English Civil War and a trilobite that is part of the Town's Coat of Arms.

Dudley Coat of Arms
The Dudley Bug

I'm making a night of it, so the starting point is Tipton Railway Station.   Straight away the Birmingham Canal is picked up for a short walk to Victoria Park.

Birmingham Canal
We've all seen canals, but here's the Birmingham Canal
Victoria Park
Through Victoria Park, Tipton

Right out of the park and head down Baker Street to pick up another canal - but make sure you cross the bridge before heading right to the Black Country Museum.

Black Country Museum
You could spend the day here - Fish and Chips are the best in the world (says my daughter)
Turning left past the museum, the first bit of wild rambling is encountered.  Proper rural footpaths run alongside the zoo and castle before dumping you in the centre of Dudley - and this, on the day of its most famous son's birthday.  Not Dud, Lenny Henry.

Paths along the Zoo
Proper Rambling in the Black Country
Castle
And a Proper Castle to boot

The town centre needs to be traversed... if you are really brave and/or thirsty, there are a number of watering holes to stop off at but I suggest looking at the monuments and plowing on for the Bathams.

Duncan Edwards
Dudley Duncan Edwards
Half way point of the walk and a reward is deserved.   The Lamp Tavern is another superb Bathams pub.   It's a multi roomed, where you can find peace and tranquility in a little alcove or join in with the story telling in a packed bar.   I missed the start of a very long joke about a talking dog but the punch line was "he was an effing liar".   It took 10 minutes for the regulars to stop laughing.

Bathams at the Lamp Tavern
Midway Reward

The Lamp Tavern
Also offers B&B, should you want to make a night of it
The walk back to the station has some unexpected discoveries.  First, there are the remains of a priory, founded in 1160 and later destroyed by Henry VIII.

Dudley Priory
Dudley Priory
Then there is Wrens Nest Nature Reserve.  More wild walking right in the town centre.  And who knew the most abundant fossil site in the British Isles wasn't in Dorset?  The route is through limestone quarry workings, providing tunnel like walking.

Wrens Nest Nature Reserve
More Wild Walking through Wrens Nest
Now, this may come as a shock to Batham's Fans but there are other pubs and beers available.  For those who dispute this fact - abandon the blog now and head for Tipton Station - straight down the A457.

I always planned on exploring more tonight.  I had intentions of finding the Tipton Slasher but right where I emerge from Wren's Nest I find this...

Holdens Brewery
A new series?  Walks from Holden's Pubs?
I'd done my research and the Lamp Tavern was the only Good Beer Guide Pub in Dudley.  Yet this place proudly displays the blue 2018 sticker on the window.   It transpires that I am now in Woodsetton and right before Wordsley, in the West Midlands section of the bible, is the entry for the Park Inn.

A bonus tick!

As you can see, its the brewery tap for Holdens Beer.  I once asked what beer was available in a Worcestershire Chef and Brewer and the barman said "Abbot, Speckled Hen and Holden's Golden Shower".   I passed on that but here I found a wonderful Golden Glow.

Please observe carefully the photo.  A local couldn't believe I was taking a photo of it and took great delight in telling everyone (individually, I add) that "the beer's that bostin ees tekking a photo ov it".

Golden Glow, Park Inn
Surely I'm not the first photo taker?
I was looking for somewhere to eat but I hadn't taken into account how popular pies were in this part of the country.   An abortive attempt was made at Mad O' Rourkes Pie Factory.   They were queuing out the rear door.

Mad O Rourke's Pie Factory
Interesting - but a beyond mental human carnival of pie eating inside
Back to the original plan of finding the Slasher.   First the monument and then his "HQ", another GBG entry but from 2017, The Fountain.

The Tipton Slasher
Put up your Dukes
The Fountain
William Perry's HQ - Blue Plaque and Info Board on the Front.
Tipton Slasher's HQ
All you need to know

The pub's an old school classic - central bar, proper pub furniture, unrecognised European Football game on quietly enough not to dampen the conversation.   The Wadworth 6x was not LocALE but in superb condition.

What a walk!  And for those worried about my lack of solid sustenance - the Express and Star's Chippy of the Year is just over the road.

With no Mrs M to hold me back, tea was taken in a Tipton bus stop.


Monday 27 August 2018

27/08/18 - Crickley and Leckhampton Hills

Distance - 6.5 Miles
Walk Inspiration - Jarrold More Cotswold Walks - Walk 20
Geocaches - 5



Much of today's walk is along the Cotswold Way - the first Long Distance Path I completed back in 2006.  Fortunately, I remember little from 12 years ago and its much like walking for the first time.

The walk is a beauty - offering possibly the finest views from the Cotswold Escarpment over the Severn Vale and the Malvern.   Climbs aplenty, but all gradual.

Woodland from the Air Balloon Pub climbing to Crickley Hill.

Climbing Crickley Hill
Easy Upward Walking

Cotswold Way
Mrs M striding away on the Cotswold Way - Gustav providing future inspiration
We emerge from trees and literally walk along the edge of the escarpment.  Its all about the views, and many photos are taken.   Just one will give you the idea.

Views over Severn Valley
To the Malverns
A quiet lane carries us to Ullenwood Golf Club, where you can see from the map that we conquer Leckhampton Hill by completing a complete loop.   Other walkers are observed following the same Jarrold Book Guide but even that coincidence is not enough to generate a conversation.

Leckhampton Hill is the quarry that provided the stone for much of Cheltenham, seen below.   There is a man made feature marked on the OS Map called the Devils Chimney and once again, we fail to find the correct path to see it up close.   I think we are too high on the Cotswold Way but the views more than compensate.

Lecjhampton Hill Toposcope
Toposcope detailing what we can see
Views over Cheltenham
Cheltenham below and a bit of the rock that created it

Green lanes and field systems deliver us back to the post walk celebration venue.

The Air Balloon is a Chef and Brewer pub that does neither particularly well but somehow generates a hugely loyal patronage.   I know its a bank holiday Monday, but I didn't expect to be told that no tables were available at 12:05pm when we arrive.

After much negotiation (we will sit outside fell on deaf ears but we have Tesco Vouchers somehow mobilised them into allowing us to have early use of a table booked for 2pm) we are allowed in.

Real Ales are off - with the exception of a forlorn Abbott Ale.   Food was adequate but not offering value for money.   Even with Tesco Vouchers.

Still, we were fed and watered and the service was friendly.   The rain stayed off.  The walk was a classic Cotswold ramble.  We'll file it under Bank Holiday success.

Air Balloon Pub
Chef and Brewer


Sunday 26 August 2018

26/08/18 - Chiltern Chain Walk - Stage 1 - Dunstable Downs

Distance - 12 Miles
Geocaches - 6
Walk Inspiration
Pub - Old Hunters Lodge, Whipsnade


A classic case of one idea generating another.   Back in June, I completed a fantastic 10 mile walk along the Chess Valley in the Chilterns.  I started to research other walks in the area and stumbled upon the "Chiltern Chain Walk".

It's not an official Long Distance Path but has been generated by a keen amateur, who I know only as Pete.  Pete has meticulously documented 20 circular walks to take you across the area.   See his blog in the Walk Inspiration link at the top of this post for route guidance and information on what is encountered.

You could argue, with the Heart of England Way and the London Countryway not yet complete, that the last thing I need is commitment to another path.  So no guarantees on when I will finish this one, but rest assured, I will.

Stage 1 was a good walk, rounded off with a visit to a 2018 Good Beer Guide Pub.

The walk starts at the Chiltern Gateway Centre, just outside but worlds away from Dunstable.   If you're looking for a kite purchase, I can recommend nowhere better. 

Chiltern Gateway Centre
The Kite Shack
I'm walking in a clockwise direction and Pete's instructions are better than my OS Map.  He takes me on genuine rights of way path that my Explorer 181 does not have marked.    There's a trail of Geocaches along this way but I don't think the CO wants them to be found.  Multiple D5's on a 12 mile walk when you are trying to beat the rain are not what is required.

Early stages of the walk are functional, rather than photo generating in their excitement.   Woodland walking around Kensworth Chalk Quarry to the rather out of scale, based on the size of the hamlet, church.

Early Woodland Walking
This is Woodland Walking
Kensworth Church
Kensworth Church

Agricultural fields for a couple of miles into Markyate.   I haven't taken too many photos and Markyate is not going to change this.   Even the church is ugly.  You'll have to make do with something else ugly - me 2 miles further on in Great Bradwin's Wood.

Me in Great Badwins Wood
I kept to the paths
More geocaches are picked up at Studham Church and these are designed to be found.   The rules of this global treasure hunting game have to be explained to a startled dog walker, as I emerge from the undergrowth, triumphant.  She's completely uninterested and tells me that she sees all sorts of weirdos on her dog walks.

Studham Church
Another Bedfordshire Church - Studham
Whipsnade coming up next, a small village with plenty of interest.   It has a zoo and I walk the fenced perimeter hoping to bring exotic wildlife to my blog.   There is a pair of wallaby's but with the lack of zoom on my camera, I would be accused of trying to fob you off with photos of big rabbits.

There's the National Trust Cathedral of Trees.   Does what it says on tin and was planted to commemorate WWI in 1930s.

Whipsnade Zoo Perimeter
Whipsande Zoo Perimeter - More interesting than distant shots of Wallabys.
Tree Cathedral
Entrance to the Cathedral of Trees


Finally, a little further down the road from Whipsnade Church is today's pub - The Old Hunters Lodge.

You're never quite sure what you are going to get in the Good Beer Guide - and I have to admit that this 2018 entry is a surprise.   Yes, its beautiful looking on the outside but its a gastropub - where they have all the tables set for dining and through earwigging, have two types of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Beerwise, its Doom Bar, London Pride and Tring Ridgeway for the LocALEs.  I played safe and went with the London Pride.  Glassware tells a different story.

Old Hunters Lodge, Whipsnade
The Old Hunting Lodge - Thatched Lovliness

Old Hunting Lodge, Whipsnade
THATCHERS?  In the one tiny area not setup for fine dining

Old Hunting Lodge, Whipsnade
£4.60 a pint, contributing to the electricity bill
An odd choice for a Good Beer Guide entry.... but then again, the bible also contains Wetherspoons - who have done the most unpubby thing imaginable and banned dogs.

Back to the walk and I was trying to save the hollywood photos for the grand finale.  The weather had other ideas.   The Icknield Way provides a gently climbing green lane that deliverers the walk to the Dunstable Downs ridge - where far reaching views over Buckinghamshire and Oxfordshire are promised.   Except, of course, on Bank Holiday Weekends.

"Views" over Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire
Here for the Views....

Other Fools
... And so are they
A thoroughly enjoyable ramble and I appreciate the effort Pete went to in creating a detailed and informative resource.

I will be back for Stage 2 before the end of the 2018.

Saturday 25 August 2018

25/08/18 - Severn Valley Country Park

Distance - 4.5 Miles
Walk Inspiration
Geocaches - 1


Having responsibility for a future guide dog puppy means we are having to find relatively short local walks of less than five miles.   I think I will get value from this year's subscription to www.walkingworld.com.  This is the third walk in 10 days from that resource.

Starting point is the Severn Valley Country Park - once again, we have found a walk that finishes with a cafe.  A drop down to the River Severn, where the golden fields are looking stunning at the moment.

Joy
She's not one for posing but this is best Joy photo today
Easy walking, with access to water provided by a shore, commandeered by ducks.

Duck Sanctuary
Duck Island
Joy drinking
Joy's earned a drink

River walking ends at Hampton Loade, with a strategically placed pub - the River and Rail.   A fine beer garden but the least "pub looking" pub ever encountered.  We discussed whether it was a bungalow or not.  Regardless, it was too early for a visit.

A climb on public footpaths through someone's back garden to pick up lanes at butter cross to work our way back to Alveley.  A village that has the honour of hosting a fine church and the oldest pub in Shropshire.

Alveley Church
Alveley Church
Oldest Pub in Shropshire - Three Horseshoes, Alveley
Three Horseshoes - Since 1406 - Not open at 11:32

Too early for both today's pubs, we arrive back at the visitor centre to see what is on offer. 

Teacakes.

Thursday 23 August 2018

23/08/18 - Heart of England Way - Stage 17 - Lapworth

Distance - 6.5 Miles
Geocaches - 7
Previous Stages - Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7Stage 8Stage 9Stage 10Stage 11Stage 12Stage 13Stage 14Stage 15, Stage 16


An easy circular walk on the Heart of England Way, taking in Tudor History, Warwickshire Countryside and for the first time, the canal systems of South Birmingham.

Early walking is easy countryside through the National Trust's Baddesley Manor.   This is an Elizabethan Manor House, complete with priest holes and something to entertain the kids.   It an evening during the school holidays and their excited shouts can be heard as the route passes the outskirts.

Baddesley Clinton
Into the Grounds of Baddesley Clinton
Baddesley Clinton
Baddesley Clinton Church

A brief Geocaching trail provides distraction as I walk through the fields to the more isolated Rowington Church.  1 out of the 7 available defeats me.

Rowington Church and Micro Cache
Not a Church but a "Lest We Forget" Micro
There are two major canal systems in the area - the Grand Union (Birmingham to London) is crossed over at Rowington and after a walk over the M40, a couple of miles on the Birmingham Straford Canal completes the walk.

Easy walking with rather unusual barrel shaped Lock Keepers Cottagers.

Stratford on Avon Canal
Barrell Shaped Roofed lock keeper cottages
A canal spur - called the Arm - joins the two canals and I am perfectly positioned for post walk celebrations.

Navigation, Lapworth
The Navigation, Lapworth
This is a functional canal side pub that plays on the heritage.  Spend 10 minutes looking at the art work and you could pass a test on the Warwickshire Canal Ring. 

No Good Beer Guide ticks or cask marque check ins to be obtained but the beer choice was good.   Almost tempted to have a Brew XI for reasons of nostalgia but Timothy Taylor Landlord will never be ignored.  Perfect condition.





Sunday 19 August 2018

19/08/18 - Good Beer Guide Ticking in Derby

Derby isn't going to win any "best looking town" awards.  Walking across the City, is a trail of underpasses, flyovers and the hope that somewhere, there is a pedestrian bridge to get across the waterways. 


Derby
Picking routes on Google Maps is easy.  Not quite so easy when you arrive
So why am I here?  Well, I've never been before and always open to urban exploration.  It also has quite a reputation as a beer town.   Planning for one afternoon/night meant streamlining. 

Three CAMRA books helped....

  • 13 entries in the 2018 Good Beer Guide.   
  • An entry in CAMRA 101 Great Beer Days Out.  
  • An entry in CAMRA 50 great Pub Crawls.   

Not all the recommendations were for the same places.  And To top it all - one of the first pubs I pass on foot, the Smithfield, has a sign saying its CAMRA 2018 Pub of the Year.  The Smithfield is not even mentioned in any of the publications.

Avoiding the out of town ones and the Wetherspoons is an easy choice for whittling down the numbers.  I am left with a plan to complete 8 pubs over 7 hours and find somewhere for tea.

The Alexandra Hotel, 203 Siddals Road, Burton Bridge Bitter

The Alexandra
Pub 1.
Here we have it, the trainspotters theme pub of the year.   Paraphernalia goes as far as having a Class 37 train in the pub car park.  It was blocked in by a Mondeo.  How do I know it was a Class 37?  Well, there's a geocache attached to it that provided all the info.

I'm not sure what gained my attention first - the huge digital clock (railway of course) or the music, which was that mental 10 minute prog rock yodelling song that Radcliffe and Maconie like to play on a Friday afternoon.

A long bar, guarded by men who must have come on motorbikes and a DIY enthusiast who couldn't resist a chance to fix the fan, offers 8 real ales.  Another chance to try Burton Bridge Bitter could not be ignored.  Served in a pint glass from Scottish Real Ale Festival.   I didn't ask how it had got here.

The Alexandra
Note the timepiece - Digital, yet minutes are recorded with satisfying "Clunk"

Brunswick Inn, 1 Railway Terrace, Timothy Taylor Landlord

I don't say this lightly, but I can stop looking for the best pub in the land.   Here, in a structure that resembles New Yorks Flat Iron Building, I have found my Orwellian "Moon Under the Water".

Brunswick
Flat Iron (or Bittles Bar in Belfast)
So, what's to like?  The production line layout - with a brewery at one end and the simply gorgeous Family Parlour at the other.  Somewhere in the middle is the bar serving an uncountable number of their own brews, a large representation of Everards and a smattering of other classics.

Brunswick
Where the Magic Begins
Brunswick
And Where it Ends

I had this beautiful room, chesterfields included, all to myself and was able to shut the door, and read the Sunday Times with just the gentle hum of traffic as background noise.

A destination pub, if ever I met one.

Silk Mill Cider and Alehouse, 19 Full Street, Bass Premium

An adventure across the City Centre, getting a couple of geocaches.

Ale and Cider House
Teatime Themetime
This is a Gastropub - so naturally, I stopped for my tea.   It was decent but if I had to describe it on Twitter it would be #WeWantPlates.

Despite its refined comfort, one of the other punters was a middle aged man with a black eye.   Fair play to him for coming out.

Tea enjoyed to the peel of the Cathedral bells.

Cathdral from Ale and Cider House
It was Sunday
 The Flowerpot, 23 King Street, Blue Monkey BG Tips


Flowerpot
No Stetson Required
The music lured me in.  Imagine the genius of Seasick Steve and Nine Inch Nail's Trent Reznor rocking up to a Derbyshire beer garden and entertaining middle aged boozers with a medley of Fulsom Prison Blues, I can't get no Satisification and the Cowboy song that goes "Yippeee Eye Aye".

This melodic masterclass took my mind of the poorest pint of the day - a flat lifeless affront.  Suspicions are always aroused when the staff don't use the labelled pump in front of you and disappear around the back to pour your pint.

Derby's Answer to NIN and Seasick Steve
Almost on Stage

The Golden Eagle, 55 Agard Street, Titan Pale

In choosing which which locations to include, I liked the look of the Golden Eagle from Google Street View. 

Golden Eagle
Nice Paint Job
The brewery tap for Titan, the Pale was distinctive and looked lovely. 

This was a very serviceable back street pub that got everything right for a Sunday Evening - right down to having a local radio playing 60's music loudly.   Not one patron could resist singing along to "Shaking all Over".

Five Lamps, Duffield Road, Timothy Taylor Landlord


Five Lamps
In an area where everything is called Five Lamps
Another solid local boozer on a main road.   Another one offering a choice of 8 ales and I play safe with the Landlord.  Quiet on a Sunday evening.

The Furnace Inn, Duke Street, Shiny Brewing Four Wood

You cannot accuse CAMRA of not being all inclusive.  We are right in the realms of high rise estate pub here and I am only glad I am flying solo.   Mrs M's mutterings about where are you dragging me know were keenly heard in my internal monlogue.

Furnace Inn
No Longer in Kansas, Toto
Like all good estate pubs, they could tell that I am not a local - asking me instantly if I had a Camra card to take advantage of their discount.

Another Brewery (Shiny) Taphouse - the beer was superb.  I also like the way they offered coach trips to the football for £4.50 return.... including a pint.   You cannot argue with that for public service.

The Exeter Arms, Exeter Place, Ay Up Me Duck
Exeter Arms
Exeter Arms
The final part of the section header is not me trying to do a regional accent put the pint consumed at another taphouse - the dancing duck.  I did feel silly ordering it though.

9pm on a Sunday is the twighlight zone of any blog.   This beautifully decorated pub deserved more punters than a lonely pub ticker and a lady with the biggest pork pie that I have seen this side of Sainsbury's deli counter.

The Peacock, Nottingham Road, Breakfast at Tiffanys

No-one can accuse me of not getting my money's worth from a £21 travelodge.   This was passed on the walk way back to the Cricket Ground.   If you're local, you'll recognise the road as having chains dangling from overhead supports to stop vehicles greater in height than 2.5m slamming into the underpass.

No photos from here.   They didn't come out too well.  After the Derby County football paraphernalia, the thing that I will remember is the music.    

Who has ever entered a pub to be serenaded by The Normal's Warm Leatherette?  This seqwayed into Sex and Drugs and Rock and Roll (Ian Dury, not an activity).   I left, after a strangely named pint, to the Skids Into the Valley.

It's always time to go when they are playing Into the Valley.   The big boys start moshing.

With 8/13 GBG Ticked - and surely the Smithfield being added to the list - it looks like I am coming back to Derby.   

The Brunswick alone is enough to tempt me.