Sunday 14 April 2024

14/04/24 - Centenary Way Summary

Length of Heart of England Way - 100 Miles

Amount walked on Circular Walks - 193.5
Geocaches Found - 66
Stages Completed In - 26
Start - Kingsbury Water Park - 20/03/21
Finish - Lower Quinton - 14/04/2024

The Centenary Way is a 100 mile Long Distance Path in Warwickshire, created to commemorate 100 years of the counties existence.  Stephen Cross, former Mayor of Warwick, takes his blueprint for the Heart of England Way and produces a guide book that splits the route into a series of circular day walks.

Providing inspiration for monthly walks, I completed over 26 stages.

BookCover
The Guide Book

Highlights

Several stages were accessible by public transport. This led to big days out in Nuneaton, Kenilworth, Warwick and Leamington. Walking could be combined easily with Good Beer Guide Ticking. There were some decent walking stretches too - Burton Dassett Hills and Edge Hill providing the best walks.

Lowlights

Poor paths in places - especially in the North of the County.  Overgrown and sometimes missing. I can't blame the path for the 2024 mud, but there was a sea of it towards the end. Several walks were deadly dull. Even as we edged into the Cotswolds.

The real killer was HS2 - causting rerouting and misery on a couple of stages - none worse than Ufton.  To be fair to the guide author, he did he best to warn us, with potential diversions detailed in a book published in 2017.

Alas, in summary, it was nowhere near as pretty or satisfying a walk as the Millennium Way and Heart of England Way, which have followed similar themes.

The Stages

Stage 2 - Shustoke
Stage 3 - Furnace End
Stage 4 - Birchley Heath
Stage 5 - Nuneaton
Stage 6 - Bermuda
Stage 7 - Sutton Stop
Stage 8 - Ansty
Stage 9 - Brinklow
Stage 10 - Brandon
Stage 12 - Bubbenhall
Stage 13 - Kenilworth
Stage 14 - Leek Wooton
Stage 15 - Warwick
Stage 16 - Leamington Spa
Stage 17 - Ufton
Stage 18 - Harbury
Stage 20 - Fenny Compton
Stage 21 - Arlescote
Stage 22 - Edghill
Stage 23 - Oxhill
Stage 24 - Idlicote
Stage 25 - Ilmington
Stage 26 - Lower Quinton

The Photo Album

Centenary Way

14/04/24 - Centenary Way - Stage 26 - Lower Quinton

 The End of the Centenary Way

Here it, the end of a Long Distance Path that never set the pulse racing. With the exception of a few town centre highlights, the walking was pedestrian - often on unloved paths that if they hadn't disappeared completely, would be often overgrown. HS2 causing issues on several stages. Still, it provided structure to my monthly walking plans over the last 4 years. 

The final stretch is dominated by Meon Hill - an Iron Age Hillfort steeped in legend.....

Meon Hill on the Monarchs Way
Centenary Way sharing the path to Meon Hill with the Monarch Way

The Made Up Myth - The ghost of the Celtic King Arawyn, hunting the hill at night. He rides a pale horse, running a pack of white hounds with red ears.  

The Modern Day Murder Mystery - The location for the last unsolved murder in Warwickshire.  In 1945, Charles Walton was found with his own pitchfork embedded in his throat and the sign of a cross carved into his chest. This is how you kill a witch, in Warwickshire and there were some parallels to a similar killing in the 1800's. Plenty of documentaries on YouTube.

No spooky scenes on the day when Spring may have arrived.

Views from Meon Hill
Views from Meon Hills flanks

The walk continues to Ilmington before tracking its way north, back to Lower Quinton. It should be unspectacular agricultural field walking but the Centenary Way cannot help but deliver a final sting in the tale. The farmers are out ploughing up their fields - obliterating the footpaths.  We could have braved the churned up earth across ankle breaking clods but we would be playing frogger with the tractors. No one wants to be laughed at by a farmer. Lane based diversions adding a mile to the walk.

We arrive back in Lower Quinton for the twin village staples of Church and pub.

Lower Quinton Church
Lower Quinton Church

The College Arms is one of the odder pubs found on my travels. Poor on-line presence makes it tricky to determine if they offer food on a Sunday and if they do, what it might be. Their website redirecting you to their facebook page if you click on "Menus". Tripadvisor pointing to the go elsewhere, with a rating of the 117th best restaurant in Stratford.

I leave it to Mrs M and her internet sleuthing to decide where we should visit. The facebook review where someone's husband had run off with the barmaid making up her mind.

She knows I will be in post LDP completion high spirits and cannot be trusted

College Arms, Lower Quinton
College Arms - Lower Quinton - I missed the sign saying "Motorbike Parking Only"

There is some history here - the building originally owned by Henry VIII.  Then it fell into the hands of Oxford's Magdelan College and the only pub in the land allowed to use its coat of arms.  A farmhouse originally, converted to a pub in 1897.

Now a bikers pub and how lovely to see Mods and Rockers drinking in perfect harmony.

At Mrs M's request, we Sunday lunched at nearby Long Marston's Mason Arms.

Walk Details

Distance - 7.5 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Pub - The Mason Arms, Long Marston (off route)

Previous Stages - Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7Stage 8Stage 9Stage 10Stage 11Stage 12Stage 13Stage 14Stage 15Stage 16Stage 17Stage 18Stage 19Stage 20Stage 21Stage 22Stage 23Stage 24, Stage 25


Sunday 7 April 2024

07/04/24 - Burford - On the Trail of Tom, Dick and Harry Dunsdon

 The Dandy Highwaymen


My second walk inspired by the Loremen Podcast, where the hosts share (and debunk) folklore.  This time, going back to the C18th and the story of the original Tom, Dick and Harry.

The picturesque village of Fulbrook, a mile north of Burford, was the birthplace of three of the Wychwood forest's most notorious robbers.

The Dunsdon brothers, Tom, Dick and Harry, used a cottage across the country border in Icomb, Gloucestershire as a base from which to commit a number of crimes in the Burford area.

They specialised in burglary, theft and highway robbery, once holding up the Oxford to Gloucester coach and stealing £500, a fortune in their day.

The key locations of their lives easily adaptable into an 11 mile Cotswold romp, using pretty Burford as the base.

Their Home Village 

The three brothers were born in Fulbrook, about a mile from Burford. Reached towards the end of the walk, it consists of a main road, a slightly off-centre church and a coaching house.

The Carpenters Arms, Fulbrook
Good Beer Guide Pubs available in Burford

Crime Scene

Loose lips sink ships and in this case, lose limbs. The three brothers plotted the robbery of Tangley Hall at their local, the Bird in Hand. News got through to the owners, who were prepared for the raid. 

Dick attempted to reach through a judas hole in the front door to get access to the lock. The residents were ready for them and roped his arm, forcing Dick to shout "Cut It".  He must have meant the rope, but in Chuckle Brothers style, his brothers lopped his arm off. Dick was never seen again,.

Tangley Hall is a remote farmhouse located about 4 miles north of Burford in quiet woodland, accessible by public footpaths.

Tangley Hall, Burford
All quiet at Tangley Hall 

The Dunsdon Brothers
AI insists the Dunsdons were the inspiration for Harry Enfield's The Scousers

Another Crime Scene and the Gibbet Tree

1784 and the two surviving brothers are back at their favourite watering hole for the Whitsuntide Festival. A bet with the Landlord for a sack of potatoes goes wrong and one of the brothers shoots the Governor. Everyone loves chips, but this is too much. The brothers were arrested, sent to Gloucester for a hanging sentence and their bodies gibbeted to serve as a warning to others. Their initials and the date were carved (and frequently recarved) into the tree until the Internet arrived and we had other ways of telling stories.

The landlord survived, with the bullet hitting a lucky coin in his waistcoat.

But this is the C18th. You shoot the most important man in society and you're going to have your rotting body hung in a tree as tourist attraction.

For the walk's benefit, evidence remains to be linked into the route.

The Bird in Hand is long gone. Not even detailed on www.beerintheevening.com. It was located on Capp's Lodge Plain - with the farmhouse building serving as inn and in more recent times, a smallpox hospital. But look closely at the OS map, and the Gibbet Tree is clearly marked.

The Gibbet Tree, Buford
Highlighted in Yellow
The Gibbet Tree, Buford
I remembered my Telephoto lens

If the Internet contains one type of person, its the amateur sleuth. You can search on the Dudsdons and the Gibbet Tree and follow wormholes that tell that even though it is on private land, there used to be a Geocache (archived, 2015). Many photos of the tree through the seasons but this one from a few years ago of most interest;

Tom's Initials
Tom, the most prominent remaining mark

Hauntings

The story goes on - on the way from taking the bodies from Gloucester to the Gibbet Tree, the coach drivers stopped for a pint at the George Inn in Burford. In a world of perpetual change, its good that some traditions survive. The brothers were known to drink there themselves and their spirits followed  for a last pint. Strange sounds and inexplicable happenings have been reported in the building since the C18th. The restless ghosts of Tom and Harry are hopefully more active now the George has been converted into an antique shop.

The George at Bufford
Things will go bump in the night until it comes back as a 'spoons


Other Stuff in Burford

Its a charming little town - think Broadway but with more traffic.  A single lane, pedestrian unfriendly bridge causing the bottleneck. Legends about the spirit of Lady Tanfield captured in a bottle and thrown in the stream below. She will remain trapped in the first bridge arch below until the Windrush dries up. Little chance of that, in this dampest of global warming winters.  

More credible stories about the three Levellers executed and buried in the church yard. I know there weren't as good as the New Model Army, but the irony that it was Cromwell who ordered this.

Burford Church
Tombs and effigys aplenty inside
Levellers memorial at Burford Church
Three of the Levellers

The best of the architecture and away from the traffic, is in Sheep Street.

The Good Beer Guide Pubs

An 11 mile walk demands refreshment and the bible details two watering holes.  A half in each and the hope of a Sunday lunch that isn't a Sunday lunch.  A sandwich will suffice.

The Angel is a pretty little Hook Norton House. A Gastropub, with every table setup for dining.  A friendly landlord offering to move cutlery for a hard core half of Old Hooky drinker like myself.  I couldn't trouble him, so I moved to the sheltered beer garden to keep out the way.

The Angel, Burford
Will Sir be dining?

You are never sure what you are going to find in a Greene King.  Alas, I will never find out with The Golden Pheasant looking like the landlord did a midnight flit.  A blow to the Burford comedy scene for sure.

Golden Pheasant, Burford
Dubious Ticks Committee notified
Golden Pheasant, Burford
Will I be the first to notify Pubs Galore?

The Mermaid opposite also recently closed. The staff at the Cotswold Arms lamenting the lack of pub love in this part of the world, whilst also offering a fine steak and mushroom baguette.


Walk Details

Distance - 11 miles

Walk Inspiration - Locations from the Loreman Podcast, Episode 2

Geocaches - 1 and an Adventure Lab Cache in Burford

Previous Loremen Walks - Churchill


Saturday 6 April 2024

06/04/24 - Belbroughton Village Walk

 No time for the Pub


Strangely, with cocked up plans caused by traumas too dull to document, I find myself with a Saturday afternoon free. The randomiser is sparked up select the next location in my Hidden Places book.

Belbroughton.

A village packed with history, with every building seemingly hosting a blue plaque and random bits of scythe making machinery left in public spaces.

Belbroughton Steam Hammer
A Hammer Press

The village is exited to the South West from the Churchyard. A pleasant bit of ridge walking leaves me battling Storm Kathleen, which bizarrely brings high winds and warmth, with no rain.

Belbroughton Church
Belbroughton Church

Drayton Pond is the only alternative to agricultural fields and paths of various degrees on mud.

Drayton Pool
Drayton Pond
   
If I ever read my blogs in the future, maybe I will notice that my elderly OS Map shows a footpath that has now moved around Brookfield Farm. This is the second time I have made the same mistake.  

So what Belbroughton provides with historical interest and pretty buildings, it does lack easy parking. As the very definition of a rat run, leaving the car parked on the street makes you wonder if the wing mirrors will be still attached on return. The Talbot pub car park is now fee based and there is a steep increase in cost from 2 hours to all day.  

I arrive back back on the dot of expiration. 5 miles walked in exactly 2 hours. Even with the lost footpath of Brookfield Farm.  

There is no decision to be made on whether the Talbot, Queens Head or Ye Olde Horseshoe Inn gets the Mappiman dollar.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 2

Walk Inspiration - Village Walks in Worcestershire, Walk 2